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r1150rt fairing screws

flounder

New member
Howdy all,
hadnt been on here or the bike for a while due to some health issues. well got back on both the other day and found some great info on my leaking gas lines, however when i took the fairing off to checheck the problem i didnt realize the screws werent all the same length till they were all off:cry anyone have a list of which go where??
thanks in advance.
flounder
 
You should have two lengths. The longer ones go at the mirrors (2) and on the footpeg plates (5, not at the right rear). You probably have more; it doesn't really matter where you put them. The mirrors are the only place where it makes a difference, but I don't put a long one at the right rear FP plate because it can bottom out.
 
The longer screws (4 total) go into the nutplates at the bottom of the mirror mounting prongs and into the black fairing dash panel at the inboard sides of the speaker mounting locations.

Get them all in most of the way before tightening them down, so you can realign (or persuade) any reluctant ones. Do not force them; cross-threading will destroy the nutplate and narf the threads on the bolt. Don't forget the ones on each side of the oil cooler. I sometimes have to use a probe to realign the nutplate on the right side above the exhaust header.

Older RTs had three different lengths; the shortest (about 1/2") were used above the footpegs (and all along the tank) but it's perfectly OK to install the "second" size (about 5/8") there (above the footpegs) too and reduce the quantity of "different hardware".

I never had any issues at the right rear footplate (now I'll have to go look at that again!); but I have had bottoming out at the right rear of the gas tank (last one on the top, not the one by the battery).
 
Seems like some folks might have different screw sets for their RTs. ???

Mine has 2 very long screws behind the mirrors. Like 2 inches long for reasons I don't understand

There are 6 longer screws, 3 each that go into foot rest plates. None bottom out on my RT foot plates but they are too long for the top of the tank.

The remaining 20 short screws (10 per side) go everywhere else in the fairing: 2 in the nose, 6 in the tank, 2 behind the tank in front of the seat, 4 above the valve cover and 4 in the belly pan.

I think that's it.
 
No biggie. Being I am getting old and my memory is something of the past, I made a little wooden template with each side of the bike drawn on it with the positions of the screws marked and drilled out. When I remove the screws from the fairing, they go into the holes on the template. I never have any questions as to what goes where. Try it, you'll like it!
 
I've always heard that what you want to avoid is putting a long one into the top of the tank. I don't know if that could reach far enough to damage the tank.
 
For the most part, figuring screw locations out is pretty easy.

12mm where the threads are directly below the panel you're fastening, like when you have a tapped hole in metal (K12RS side panels).

16mm when the threads are behind a second layer of plastic (a clip-nut on the panel beneath, the most common arrangement)

20mm when you have two panels and then a clip nut on the third layer, or a rubber well nut.

The bikes don't always conform to this, but it's the basic rule. It also explains why the RT footpeg plate screws don't really need to be 20mm, although they probably are because the aluminum is thicker than a typical fairing panel.
 
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