Oilhead timing

I've replaced failed Hall effect sensors on my 96 R1100RT and need to check the timing. I made a couple of scratch marks before removing the old one as a guide but want to make sure the timing is right. I found two good posts; one by GSAddict and another with photos here: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Oilhead%20Timing%20The%20Easy%20Way.html

Both desribe a simple way to set the timing by cycling the fuel pump using the OT mark on the flywheel as a guide. Problem is my bike's fuel pump cycles once when I turn the key on, but moving the crank from 15 degrees back to the OT mark does not cycle the pump again as described in these threads.

The bike does fire up with the new hall plate installed at the marks I made but I just want to make sure the timing is right.
Questions:
- Can I use a timing light?
- If so, what timing mark do I set the plate to? The S mark (5 degrees advanced) or the OT mark?
- I also read that you can shove a 12 volt LED into pins 4 and 5 of the hall sensor connector and static time it to the OT mark that way. Is this the desired and most accurate way?
- What does BMW service do? Static or timing light?

I have always used a timing light to time engines if I had one and used a voltage test light to do points on old Chevys and such when no light was available. Timing lights are the most accurate I thought.

Thanks in advance for input.

Well... no specific help here. I tried ADVRider with same questions and a fellow in Holland advised not to use a timing light since the Motronic does all the spark advancing based on several inputs it would be hard to know where to set it at idle exactly.

I tried using my voltmeter and although I could see voltage rising around TDC I could not really tell exactly where to set it. Then I tried the fuel pump method again. Moving my flywheel back 15 degrees and back to the OT mark and beyond produced no fuel pump cycle. Weird...

What is interesting though is that then I tried leaving the flywheel at exactly TDC (the OT mark) and moved the Hall Sensor plate back and forth. The fuel pump would cycle at a specific spot so I set the timing right there. This should be OK according to what I have read.
The bike seems to run fine. I will put a few more things back together and test ride it today.

I don't understand why moving the flywheel does not make the fuel pump cycle at TDC but moving the sensor plate does... But mine is not to question why, mine is to ride the darn thing!

Can't wait to see if the new hall effect sensors improve the surging too. What a bonus that would be!

OK, You've had two whole days to test out your HES timing, and we need to know----well, at least I do. My 1100rs has about 75kmiles, and just rec'd new HES to replace as preventive maintenance. I have the exact same questions you have, and was planning on marking my old one, and installing new in same position, as you did. Sooooo...., hows it run??? BTW, I've read the same about timing lights. Anyone else can chime in with more info....

RedRam, I can weigh in on the issue. I R&R'd the HES plate a few months ago. Before loosening it, I scribed a V mark on the front of the plate, with the point directly next to some seam or mark (I can't remember) on the front of the engine case. After the rebuild, I reinstalled the plate just where I'd removed it.

I wanted to see how it ran before I timed it. It fired right up, and ran fine...and I've never gotten around to checking the timing.

Guys,

You only have a few degrees in both directions. Put it in the middle and call it a day.

Jim Moore
Jax, FL

Thanks Jim & David. It's as I suspected.Will do install today. After all I read, including Clymer manual, the more cofused I became, doesn't take much--

On the IBMWR site there is a thread on constructing a device for just that. Cost me under $10 from Radio Shack. Uses a couple LED's and resistors and a 9 volt battery, connects to the HES connector.

RedRam said:

OK, You've had two whole days to test out your HES timing, and we need to know----well, at least I do. My 1100rs has about 75kmiles, and just rec'd new HES to replace as preventive maintenance. I have the exact same questions you have, and was planning on marking my old one, and installing new in same position, as you did. Sooooo...., hows it run??? BTW, I've read the same about timing lights. Anyone else can chime in with more info....

Click to expand...

Hee hee. Sorry for the suspense. In the end what worked is setting the engine flywheel to the OT mark and sliding the hall sensor plate back and forth. At a certain point, the fuel pump can be heard to cycle. I snugged it down right there and she runs just fine. No pinging I can detect on the highway and starts right up.

I still don't get why moving the crank with a ratchet on the front pulley did not do the same thing but hey, it works.

manicmechanic said:

On the IBMWR site there is a thread on constructing a device for just that. Cost me under $10 from Radio Shack. Uses a couple LED's and resistors and a 9 volt battery, connects to the HES connector.

Click to expand...

Yeah. That is the preferred way. Also it is the way the BMW shops do it. With a little box they just plug into the HES connector. It is another excellent write up by Dana Hager.
Here is the link:
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_timing_box.pdf