starting problem

Hi every now and then when starting my 1978 r100/7. it will just click maybe 3 to4 times then start fine anybody have a clue . thank you Tom

First make sure that your battery cables are clean and tight on the battery ears. Then If your feeling energetic, check all the connections on the starter solenoid. It only takes about 10 minutes of wrench time to get to my starter, but I have lots of practice. Does your 3 or 4 clicks fire off rapidly with one press of the starter button, or is it necessary to hit the button 3 or 4 times before successful engagement? On my bike, when the solenoid goes to rapid-fire cycling, it usually means my battery is fading. I think that is probably not the case on your bike, but we always start with the easy stuff when chasing problems. Always disconnect the battery- cable before dis-mantling anything near electrical terminals. If connections and battery are good, I'd look at the solenoid or the starter brushes and/or the part of the motor armature that they ride on. The name if it escapes me at the moment. If you are having to bump it a few times occasionally, there might be a rough spot on the flywheel where the starter gear meshes with it.

I had similar issues...

About 2 years ago, I had a similar problem, although I think it a bit different than yours. My bike would turn over and start just fine when cold, but would do no more than click when warm or hot. Sometimes it would eventually catch enough to start, other times I had to "bump" start it.

I got much good information from this board and others regarding troubleshooting this problem. I basically started checking all connections, cleaned up everything I could easily get to, including the diode board.

Since my battery was around 5 years old, I replaced it with a new one, and my problem was solved. I suspect there may still be some issues that have now been overshadowed by the new power source, but so far so good.

Previous posts tell the correct story.

Unless you have a later bike with Valeo starter, it's ALWAYS the battery.

Corroded connections are essentially the same thing as bad battery, except you can see them. That is, you "have a clue."

What caused it to be the battery is another discussion, of course, but most of the time it's because the battery is old.

I bought the bike memorial weekend & the battery does not look like it has been replaced recently. So IÔÇÖm going to replace the battery & clean all connections .IÔÇÖm thinking of replacing the wiring harness because nothing looks good. By the way 3 to 4 times before success on starting. Well on the subject of batteries IÔÇÖm thinking of getting a gel battery I have a trickle charge now. Do you have a special charger for a gel battery? Thanks for the help Tom.

Tomkat, in the course of fishing on this forum, I've seen reports of gel batteries going bad within months of install. Certainly, most don't. A traditional lead/acid battery is predictable and a well engineered product, within it's inherent limits. Can't offer specific recomendations on chargers for gel bateries, but I have intelligent(tender type)chargers in both my airheads.

Ok maybe not a gel battery. I just like the idea of a sealed battery.

When my 1980 R100t was new, it had some intermittent problems with starting. It wasn't one thing, but a combination of poor connections to the fuse board in the headlight, a questionable handlebar switch, and poor connections at the starter protection relay (under the gas tank, front left side) It took considerable fiddling around before I finally solved it for good. And it wasn't the battery.

I have a sealed Westco battery in my R75/5. And I've had other sealed batteries in other machines. The GS and K1 have lead acid, with that long tube hanging down to allow the nasty acid bubbles and fumes to drop on something other than bike parts. I plug all my bikes into an automatic trickle charger when parked in the garage, to keep the batteries up. If you allow a battery to sit unused for two or three weeks without a recharge, the plates will sulfate, and the battery loses a percentage of it's capacity. If you simply park the bike without charging the battery, you can expect maybe two or three years before it's sulfated badly enough that it's down to 50% or 30% and not enough voltage to crank the starter.

Bear in mind that there is a big difference between a "sealed" battery and a "gel" battery. By "sealed" we're usually talking about a battery that's really a lead-acid, except the electrolyte is held in porous mats rather than just sloshing around the lead plates. The gel batteries (as used now in current BMWs) are different, and the biggest difference is the state of charge. The gel battery apparently requires a slightly different charge voltage, which means your old Deltran or Battery Doc charger will probably cook it. You MUST use a charger that says it's OK for a gel battery. There are some chargers that are supposed to "sense" the type of battery and adjust the charge voltage accordingly.

It's also very important how you put batteries into service. Most are shipped dry, and you get either a bottle of acid or a pack of divided containers with spouts. Put on your rubber gloves and eye protection, and dribble the acid down the holes. Now, wait the required time period, which may be two to 8 hours for an AGM battery, to allow the porous mats to soak up the acid. Then you top up the cells again, and seal them. Only then do you connect up the charger and give it a full charge. If you charge an AGM battery before the electrolyte penetrates the mats, it will be permanently ruined, and will probably fail within a couple of months.

No one has mentioned it, but Matt Parkhouse and Gary Smith have ongoing columns in Owners News that explain airhead maintenance in great detail with pictures that are better than what you'll find in the shop manuals. So, I suggest your first step with any service problem is to dig out those back issues of ON and read up. And if you're not a member of MOA, you're missing out on a lot of valuable information.

pmdave

I just read a piece in the current Owners News that states , from the manufacturer, that you must use a gel specific charger or risk voiding the warranty on the battery. Apparently this was mandated by BMW. Just for your information. I also had a similiar starting problem like yours and a new battery solved that. Good luck !
Steve

Note the excellent article in Owners News Nov 2004 by Matt Parkhouse in the "Keep 'em flying" column on this very subject.
pmdave

The piece I am referring to is in Rider to Rider, from the president of Deltran.

you may want to check the main power in and out of your starter relay, mine were all corroded and cleaning them helped my starting situation a lot. although my problem was more all or nothing (it either started or was totally dead) these wires do seem to be a common source of corrosion and trouble

I have had a Panasonic sealed battery for about 3 years now and have been extraordinarily pleased with it.