Tool Pic?

Anyone have a pic of the spanner type tool needed to remove exhaust nuts on the head on a '81 R100? Am going to attempt to fab one, need to know how many fins they contact. Tia!

I went to Sierra BMW (my local dealer) and found this pic, you can buy one for $30.

http://www.sierrabmwonline.com/euroline-airhead-exhaust-wrench-7095-p-65.html

You should be able to get a look at one on e-bay. I have 26 years experience in metal fabrication and welding, and would not attempt to make that tool. you can buy one cheaper. IMHO

Several styles shown towards the bottoms of Duane's site:

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/exhaust/index.htm

Should be available in a variety of places besides the dealer:

Dan at Cycleworks
Hucky's BMW
Bob's BMW
Capital Cycle
Beemershop

Check the MOA News...I'm sure there's a few suppliers in there.

you can borrow mine if you happen to live in or near NYC!

kgadley01 said:

You should be able to get a look at one on e-bay. I have 26 years experience in metal fabrication and welding, and would not attempt to make that tool. you can buy one cheaper. IMHO

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Boy howdy, you got that right! I checked the link so kindly provided and am leaning toward the Ed Korn version. Any experience w/ it? My nuts are relatively new, under 5k for sure, so I may luck out there. Thanks again!

I recently lost over 1/2 quart of oil, left side smoking a lot on start up including front crossover pipe. Not the usual side stand puff's, bike's been on center stand. Compression test tomorrow eve, but can see a need for a nut tool real quick. All tips appreciated, including any errors in the Clymers, '81 R100. Will disconnect elect ignition and pull the carbs, although the latter is not mentioned in my Clymers. Would open throttle be as good? Opinions seem to vary on that.

follow the link to a CAD drawing for the exhaust nut wrench. Scroll down to the bottom of the post, then click the open attachment button.

http://boxerworks.com/phorum5/read.php?6,22495,22495#msg-22495

For the compression check, you want the engine to be somewhat warm, after a 15-20 mile ride. Pulling the carbs is the best to allow the engine to breathe. If you leave the carbs in place, you'll need to find a way to prop open the slides in the CV carbs. Slides carbs, you can just roll the throttle all the way open.

Also, if and when you go to remove those exhaust nuts, be aware of all the concerns expressed on many posts about what might happen if you begin to loosen the nuts and they suddenly get tight. That's a good sign of the beginning stages of galling the threads. You should stop and strongly consider cutting the nuts off.

But before doing any of that, I've read where using a good penetrating liquid like 'Kroil and letting that soak for a while, days even, will help to get them off easier with less damage. But if they stick, cut 'em off!

awshucks said:

Boy howdy, you got that right! I checked the link so kindly provided and am leaning toward the Ed Korn version. Any experience w/ it? My nuts are relatively new, under 5k for sure, so I may luck out there. Thanks again!

I recently lost over 1/2 quart of oil, left side smoking a lot on start up including front crossover pipe. Not the usual side stand puff's, bike's been on center stand. Compression test tomorrow eve, but can see a need for a nut tool real quick. All tips appreciated, including any errors in the Clymers, '81 R100. Will disconnect elect ignition and pull the carbs, although the latter is not mentioned in my Clymers. Would open throttle be as good? Opinions seem to vary on that.

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I have the Ed Korn one. It lets you approach at more angles, as you are using your own ratchet/breaker bar. For this reason it does leave the hamhanded open to using too much force too soon. But if you are gradual and incremental with your force, and generous with penetrant, I think it gives you a better feel. You are concentrating on how, rather than if, the nut is moving. The short handle typical ones make you concentrate too much on trying to get any movement at all. Does this make sense?

Exhaust Nut Wrench

I have a bronze one from Bob's, works great but not something I'd want to take along on a trip. You can make your own, but aside from the intrigue of crafting your own tool, there are lots of them already made.

I just bought one from Guy Hendersen's shop for $35, lightweight and precision cut, made of aluminum. It fits like a glove (although I'm not sure it would work on older style nuts). It does not come with an extension, but I made one, simple enough.

Also, someone has probably mentioned this but I will too in case it's not been said. I use Kroil, most gun shops sell it, as a creeping penetrating oil. For the exhaust nuts, especially the first time, I spent a week riding the bike and each time I would park the bike after a ride, I'd spray Kroil onto both sides of the nuts while they are hot. You can do it while the pipes are cold, but it won't creep as much as a hot set drawing it in. My bike sat untouched for 8 years in a garage, so I was concerned they may be hard to release. That was the method I used, a very light tap with a rubber mallet on a proper exhaust wrench and the came off easily.

Upon re-assembly, you probably can't use enough anti-seize in my opinion. Easy does it on the tightening end too--those are aluminum on aluminum threads afterall.

thanks all, Ed Korn model ordered, compression check in 5,4,3,2.....lol I'm guessing valve guide.

Out of context but funny

"My nuts are relatively new, under 5k for sure"
Oh, well, sorry to hear!
EmC

Comp check: 115-118 av both sides. Disconnected the crank vent to carbs to see if that's got anything to do w/ problem, both tubes from box to carbs have oil drops in them, will put some miles on it tomorrow and see if smoking problem abates and I got a pool of oil in air box.

Can't put much faith in that, only smokes one side, but have seen posts on divertng crank vent to either 'sponges' of scotch brite on 'T' or a bottle. Rather have it stock, but since I have to wait on wrench to pull heads................