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bosch oil filter

Ted said:
When putting the new one on your classic K,... screw in hand tight to snug, insert ratchet and turn 1/4 revolution. That is it, you'll want to tighten more, don't do it!
Click to expand...

I agree. It is so easy to tighten it too much using your socket wrench.

I bought a BMW oil filter for the K bikes, flying brick, and tried the fit on my expensive BMW oil filter wrench. It was a good tight, no slop, fit. So, I bought three more from Bob's BMW. There may be other oil filters that are cheaper, but it is not worth the hassle getting it off if it is tightened too much, an easy thing to do.
 
I think part of the problem here is outsourcing and counterfeiting. Both are the same thing, one approved, one unapproved. The end result is often a bad fit due to slight differences in dimensions.

There are two sure ways to go:

1. A K&N filter with a hex. The hex is foolproof, and they are pretty good filters, unlike their air filters.

2. A self-tightening filter wrench. I use a Lisle spiral self-tightening spring filter wrench which fits all.

Has anyone tried one of the other self-tightening wrenches?
 
I've always assumed that the hex extending from the K&N filters wouldn't clear the oil pan filter access plate on Klassic K's. Do they fit? And, do you have a link for this Lisle oil filter wrench? With the tight clearances between the pan and filter, I've only seen the thin BMW filter cap end wrench fit (or one modified to be similarly skinny).
 
Call me crazy, but in 40 years or so, I have used BMW filters and BMW filter wrenches (where applicable)...and never an issue...never had to formulate a plan...or think about it.
I tighten about 1/2 turn after the gasket touches a bit.
 
Really you should be using a torque wrench to specs, nothing worse than an over tightened oil filter that wont release or one coming loose,,, at my motorcycle shop ive seen both and it is not good, Just my two cents worth, Have a Merry Christmas to all out there,,,matthew
 
Oh on another note; Tips for to make life easier, take and mark the back side of your torque to specs or use a mirror, I purched two sears torque wrenches on sale and removed the rivots that hold the scale on both and made one with a scale top and bottom. Also use a mirror to make sure the old o=ring came out with the oil filter you might find this- oil filter o ring on old oil filter and another still suck on block, this has happened to me, the dealor did the oil change prior to me changing the oil 3000 miles ago, go figure just cant trust anyone on your bikes,,,,matthew
 
matthewfelton said:
Really you should be using a torque wrench to specs, nothing worse than an over tightened oil filter that wont release or one coming loose,,, at my motorcycle shop ive seen both and it is not good, Just my two cents worth, Have a Merry Christmas to all out there,,,matthew
Click to expand...

The torque for these oil filters by BMW is 11 NM. One could seat a filter, turn it a half turn and see what the torque goes up to. I may do that next time.
 
Can anyone recommend an affordable torque wrench that can accurately measure a torque this small (8 lb-ft)?
 
I was going to mention that issue...
Some years ago, I bought a 1/4 inch SnapOn for small torques.
 
Hi Lee,

Awesome, thanks! Decent price as well - now we just have to start a thread about Beam vs. Click ;)

We have agreement on the bulb kit, just have to paypal off some dinero :)
 
Beam over click is an easy one- with a beam you can see and feel the torque. with the beam you wait for the click. also with the beam scale, they can be compared and calibrated more easily. Case closed.
 
I seem to remember either a thread on comparing the two types or maybe it was an actual article years ago in the ON? Compared several brands and levels of torque wrenches with known resistance. I seem to recall that the beam style was superior, but several high end clickers did well, too, but that was several years ago. I seem to remember the tester may have also compared going through a knuckle/u-joint extension as well? Did not find the thread when I searched so probably an article long ago.
 
Ted said:
Hi Lee,
now we just have to start a thread about Beam vs. Click ;)
Click to expand...

They each have their benefits and drawbacks.

For most applications the benefits of click out weighs beam. Easy to use, quick (especially for multiple bolts of the same torque), easier to use where viewing the scale is a problem, accurate enough for most applications (depends more on the quality/price of the individual wrench).


Beam is very handy to "sneak up" on a given torque. Beam is better for checking Breakaway torque. Quicker for multiple torques on a few bolts.


Not an open and shut discussion. Use the right tool for the job and the one you are most comfortable with.

ANY accurate torque wrench is better than Harley"s method of "tighten it until just before it breaks" or "tighten it until it strips then back off 1/4 turn".



:dance:dance:dance
 
A 3rd option - not cheap - but IMHO better than either beam/clicker - is the electronic torque wrenches that use a load-cell to measure the torque. No need to back off the setting like a clicker (for storage), Snap-On's buzz and vibrate when they get to the right torque, my Sears buzzes and lights up. They also will remember the actual torque you get to (which is typically a few units of measurement higher than what you set it to..)

Did some testing of the Sears one I bought - end to end against a beam wrench. Accuracy was within 1-2 ft/lbs of the beam wrench (which is also within the reading error of the beam wrench.)

Other great part - no need to do any conversions - mine does in/lbs Nm's and ft/lbs with the press of a button.
 
GregFeeler said:
I've always assumed that the hex extending from the K&N filters wouldn't clear the oil pan filter access plate on Klassic K's. Do they fit?
Click to expand...

I also asked this question, and Ragman responded in the thread below that the K&N 163 had clearance:

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=35307&highlight=filter&page=3

And, do you have a link for this Lisle oil filter wrench?
Click to expand...

Sadly, it's out of production.

Fortunately, the only stuck filter I had on my K was when I bought it. I certainly agree with all on proper tightening and lubing the seal eliminating stuck filters.

.
 
Ted said:
- now we just have to start a thread about Beam vs. Click ;)
Click to expand...

A clicker has the ability to use a click without watching the scale. The ratchet feature is handy, too.

A beam wrench allows a better feel, and makes bolt stretch much easier to detect.

However, a click torque wrench needs to be backed off completely when not being used to prevent the spring from taking a set and affecting accuracy.

A good beam torque wrench stays accurate for life. Clickers less so.

.
 
Everyone has mentioned the Bosch filter, has anyone here used the AC PF53 filter on there Beemer? Boys on R1150R forum seem to like them.

It is a smaller filter than the BMW/Bosch, so need another tool.

I service both my R1150R, and a K75 for a bloke. Same filter.
I recently got a Bosch, and AC off Ebay to try.
 
I've been using the AC-Delco PF-53 for the last 10 years or so on my K75. No issues,
bike seems happy.
 
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