Stop n Go

Hello all,

I just finished viewing the really cool DVD from GlobeRiders about the 1200GS. I noticed that Helge says he doesn't like the Stop N Go tire plugger. The reason was that the mushroom shaped "plugs" are so soft that after a short while, the metal mesh used in the steel belt wears through the plug and allows air to escape.
I have never used Stop N Go, but recently purchased the "Pocket" version of same. Before I use it, I would appreciate any comments from the membership regarding this.
Has anyone had "real life" experience with this system? He likes the sticky snake repair things, also of which I have had no experience.
Thank again for all the info....

Jeff

apopj said:

Hello all,

I just finished viewing the really cool DVD from GlobeRiders about the 1200GS. I noticed that Helge says he doesn't like the Stop N Go tire plugger. The reason was that the mushroom shaped "plugs" are so soft that after a short while, the metal mesh used in the steel belt wears through the plug and allows air to escape.
I have never used Stop N Go, but recently purchased the "Pocket" version of same. Before I use it, I would appreciate any comments from the membership regarding this.
Has anyone had "real life" experience with this system? He likes the sticky snake repair things, also of which I have had no experience.
Thank again for all the info....

Jeff

Click to expand...

I too have had steel belts in radial Metzeler tires cut the soft Stop N Go plug. Had to redo the repair about 100 miles down the road - using a sticky, sringy type plug labeled as suitale for radial truck tires. It held until I got home and replaced the tire a few days later.

apopj said:

Hello all,

I just finished viewing the really cool DVD from GlobeRiders about the 1200GS. I noticed that Helge says he doesn't like the Stop N Go tire plugger. The reason was that the mushroom shaped "plugs" are so soft that after a short while, the metal mesh used in the steel belt wears through the plug and allows air to escape.
I have never used Stop N Go, but recently purchased the "Pocket" version of same. Before I use it, I would appreciate any comments from the membership regarding this.
Has anyone had "real life" experience with this system? He likes the sticky snake repair things, also of which I have had no experience.
Thank again for all the info....

Jeff

Click to expand...

I have seen similar jabs at the Stop n Go on this site, car forums, and other places, all touting the same sticky snake type repair kits. For this reason, I bought a DynaPlug repair kit which is sticky snake kit. I would love to tell you how great it is, but thank goodness, I have had no opportunity to use it yet.

But I know it will not spread the steel mesh of the tire like plugs do, and cause leaks and tear out blowout type failures. I'd say (no offense) to dump the Stop n Go unit before you have to use it. The DynaPlug is not that expensive and worth it. You can see it here:
http://www.dynaplug.com/

Thanks

Okay guys,

I'm convinced. Gonna put the Stop N Go on EBAY and just ordered the DynaPlug set. Hope it works as stated. One question, can you insert the tool all the way into a MC tire without it bottoming out? If not, can you put it in until it just touches the rim and then pull the tool out?

Thanks, Jeff

apopj said:

Okay guys,

I'm convinced. Gonna put the Stop N Go on EBAY and just ordered the DynaPlug set. Hope it works as stated. One question, can you insert the tool all the way into a MC tire without it bottoming out? If not, can you put it in until it just touches the rim and then pull the tool out?

Thanks, Jeff

Click to expand...

Jeff,
I have tried the DynaPlug only on scrap, getting through a nail hole, by pulling out the nail and inserting the rod of the DynaPlaug into same hole about nail depth (an inch or so). On a single nail hole, in, "squirt" and out, is all you do. On a hole enlarged from say a bolt or double nail, one application, wait until dry (10-15 minutes) then another and sealed w/in 2. I could never put that tool in so far as to hit rim (I'm not sure the rod is long enough for doing so on my 180/55x17 rear tire anyway). The tire itself is only "so" thick.

On a larger hole, the cord is ripped, and a new tire is indicated, after a towing. I can't help that, but up to 3/16" as it says, this thing is great!

Go back to Dynaaplug at http://www.dynaplug.com/ and watch the animation there, you'll get it. If that doesn't do it, click on the instruction link there.

Jordan
(aka "the" Tweety1 since my teen daughters named my yellow and black S Tweety Bird the day I brought it home, thus making me the Tweety1 according to their lore).

I had fortunate opportunities to attend presentations two years in a row now put on by Helge Pederson himself (Thanks to Southeast Sales/Milwaukee BMW for sponsoring the events!), and during one, Helge drilled holes into a GS's tire and then did a complete removal - repair - remounting, while all of us watched and learned.

Long story short - use the long, snake-like pluging threads. True, they are messy in hot weather - stubborn in cold weather - but have worked well for tire plugging. If a hole is rather large, either carry different size strings or use two at a time when you plug.

Not all tires are built the same. Bridgestones and Michelin Pilots don't have steel belts, so they won't eat up the Stop n Go mushrooms. OTOH, my one experience with the sticky strings is that I had to put them back into my tire every 75 miles or so to get home... I suppose the hole was too large for them.

If you have a 12V air compressor, it's annoying but not such a big deal to have to fix it every 75-100 miles, before getting somewhere to get a new tire.

apopj said:

Okay guys,

I'm convinced. Gonna put the Stop N Go on EBAY and just ordered the DynaPlug set. Hope it works as stated. One question, can you insert the tool all the way into a MC tire without it bottoming out? If not, can you put it in until it just touches the rim and then pull the tool out?

Thanks, Jeff

Click to expand...

I have been using the Dynaplug for years, LOVE IT! For the few years it was unavailable, I've been using the Stop N Go. I've only needed it once, just a few months and 8,000 miles ago - it's held up just fine

I attended a tire plugging seminar at Bob's BMW earlier this year. Our instructor made a point of turning the hole enlarging tool clockwise during that step. He said it was important because it aligned the steel fibers away from the plug. Made sense.

There's a good trip report on the forum from a fellow in Chicago (ChiSomething) during which he expresses confidence in the Plug nGo system.

We used stop and go successfully on a multiday trip last year; flat occurred on the first day and held well from Ky through WV, Virginia, NC, Tenn and back home.

Problem: this year tried to repair brand new Conti with stop and go after it quickly deflated and it just would not hold. Had the snake type also but it still leaked. A motorist that stopped had some fix a flat and I put in another stop and go plug and fix a flat but the tire continued a small trickle of air; made it back to the house; upon return home the plug would only hold around 30 lb psi, then would hold steady. Never rode the tire again and most likely would not have anyway. The leak as far as we could tell was more like a pin knife blade than a round hole.

I carry both types as a typical round nail hole is fine for stop and go; other tire damage is a more difficult fix, still others might not be repairable on the side of the road.

I have used stop and go with good results. As a matter of fact, I had no less than 3 stop and go plugs in my rear on a recent trip in Colorado. It's easy to use.
(fire roads with sharp rocks and worn out tires don't mix, I get it.. )
The trick is to really wear down the sharp edges of the steel belts with the reaming tool included. The first one I pushed it in and out a few times, but that plug didn't last long. After that I really went to town on it and all the plugs held 200+ miles.
I also carry some string type plugs, but so far the stop and go has worked for me...