Oil Filters for Hexheads

No time

Personally don't have the time to worry about the filter cost. Do my own services and wheel changes because I like to, saving big is nice too. Buying the OEM filter just reduces my savings margin very slightly. Appreciate all the research that has been done but I'll just continue use the little black BMW filter. Those that don't live close to a BMW dealer, sounds like a good excuse for a ride!

MEWAYBRIGHT said:

So by that thought pattern it is ok to pay 3 or 4 hundred 3 times a year for servicing on the bike because you dropped 18k on the thing new... hmmm how much did your car cost and where do get it serviced and do you always buy the most expensive parts you can find? Remember most expensive does not equal best quality.

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We're talking about the price of a cup of coffee here, not something that you need to drain your retirement account to buy.

I spent a lot on my car and I have it serviced at the dealer.

I'll shop around for parts, but if the difference between factory and clone is only $2, I'll buy the factory item every time.

FWIW, in restoring my R100, I've purchased a whole bunch of used parts.

deilenberger said:

Jeff,

I'm trying to understand your logic here..

BMW doesn't make oil. Correct - the specify the characteristics of the oil, and if any oil meets the specifications it's fine to use.

BMW doesn't make filters. Correct again - and again - they have specified the characteristics of their filters. Do you know of an aftermarket one that is less expensive to buy that meets their specifications? Figure I'll look a bit..

I just went through the Purlolator, Fram, Hastings, Wix and AC-Delco websites.. nada. Zilch. No listings for the R1200 engines. AC-Delco did have one for the R1150R 2003 engine, but that was it..

K&N lists one - KN-164 - but no price for it that I can find. Looks like it will be a reasonable choice: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=KN-164 - but what's the price? Less/more than BMW's?

Here is an interesting webpage:
http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml

And take a look at the BMW filter:
http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/bmw.shtml
Then a K&N (not spec'd for BMW):
http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/kandn.shtml
And someone elses.. like Fram:
http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/fram.shtml

Dunno about you - but I know what I'd want filtering my oil. Have to see what the price of the K&N KN-164 is..

Found it: http://www.4filters.com/Oil-Filter-OIL-FILTER-POWERSPORTS_p_0-6476.html - $15.00 + shipping. OrL http://www.amotostuff.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=AML&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KN-164 - $13.50 + shipping, or finally on Ebay - http://search.express.ebay.com/Vehi...ries_?_from=R40&_trksid=m51&_nkw=KN-164&_nd1= $13.00 + $5.00 shipping.

Doesn't seem like a big savings over buying them from a dealer, or if you're patient from Chicago BMW.. If you really want to save $$$ - you might consider doing 6,000 mile oil changes AS RECOMMENDED by BMW - and save yourself $60 or so.. (and if you're worried about the oil - spend $25 and have an oil analysis done at 3,000 miles..) unless you're only riding 3,000 miles a year and then I guess you're stuck with the 3,000 mile annual oil change.

Please 'splain what you're trying to achieve here..

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fwiw- here's my preferred source for K & N oil filters. http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=TUC_40-1450_G&tier2=142 They have consistently tested very well as oil filters. I also like using the Castrol Act-Evo 20W-50 semi-synthetic motorcycle specific oil that Cycle Gear carries (link is on same page as the filters). And no, i can't explain why 1 L of it costs $4, but a 4L bottle costs $18

I ordered some K&N oil filters direct from K&N online for my R1200S (Use K&N air filter too). I have used these on all of my bikes...no problems yet. I personally consider K&N to be an upgrade from OEM.

If you change your oil and filter on schedule it probably doesn't matter whose oil and filter you use . I personally use the bmw filter and synthetic oil cause it makes me feel like I'm doing all I can to protect my bike. But as a professional mechanic for the last 30 years, people that change their oil regularly don't have internal engine problems. I've been doing this a long time and thats just how it is.

wozerd said:

Thanks-- I did some more research-- the PL10241 is the shorter of the two-- I want as much filtration as I can get-- is the length an issue? I'm not going off roading (hopefully-- at least not on purpose) anytime soon, so--- if it's not a big deal, I'm getting the longer one.
I am calling my local Advance Auto today to see what they will quote me.
But, even $11.99 for two, plus shipping (or buy two for the car and 4 for the bike) is cheaper than the $16.95 they originally quoted me when the clerk looked it up.

A book store for motorcycle oil filters........... what's the world coming to!!

note added.

$5.88 each for the PL10241. The PL25230 is $8.68.
Relying on others opinions (Toby Creek, CALSCI) it appears I can purchase a superior product for 1/3 to 1/2 the price of my local (HA!! 70 miles away) dealer. Even if the price was the same, or slightly higher, I would still buy the superior product. And this from a staunch O.E. guy!!!

What IS the world coming to??

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I've got another brand on the bike right now, longer than the OEM, and have had no problems. I'm sure if I hit something with it I'll be VERY SORRY I bought the longer filter, but heck, it only sticks down an inch or so; if I do hit something that rips the oil filter off, I'll have bigger worries....

I do agree with others' comments that it's more important to do regular (following the maker's suggestions) changes than to worry about which micron is bigger.

bikerfish1100 said:

fwiw- here's my preferred source for K & N oil filters. http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=TUC_40-1450_G&tier2=142 They have consistently tested very well as oil filters. I also like using the Castrol Act-Evo 20W-50 semi-synthetic motorcycle specific oil that Cycle Gear carries (link is on same page as the filters). And no, i can't explain why 1 L of it costs $4, but a 4L bottle costs $18

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They unfortunately don't list the hexhead K&N filter.. do you know if they carry them and the price (with shipping)?

deilenberger said:

They unfortunately don't list the hexhead K&N filter.. do you know if they carry them and the price (with shipping)?

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i'd call them. i've seen them have items available that aren't listed on the website. also, take a look at their locations map- their stores give the same prices as the website. makes for a great deal on tires, as a mount/balance is only about $20, wheel delivered (i used to strip the wheels off the bike behind the store), tire purchased from them.

Anybody here use the Oilhead and early K filter in the Hexhead? I heard that some folks do.

Jack, I know there are people who do - but on at least the more naked Hexheads, it would seem the filter would be somewhat vulnerable to stuff tossed off by the front tire. The "stock" short filter sits fairly well protected inside the recess in the sump.. the extra 3/4" of the oilhead/K bike filter is sticking out there in the wind..

Since there is no difference I know of in price - and no one has shown the shorter filter is doing inadequate in filtering - I don't really see a need to.

Just MHO..

cjack said:

Anybody here use the Oilhead and early K filter in the Hexhead? I heard that some folks do.

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Jack, I used a couple last year only because I had two left over from my K12 (same filter as oilheads) when I sold it last year.
It screwed on fine but did hang down a little too much for comfort.

Bill K
Foster,RI
05 R1200RT
05 VStrom

There are quite a few on the ADVRider board who have used them, and their alternatives. No issues with the GS because of the skid plate, and I doubt it would be a problem on any street biikes. Hell, some street bikes have the filter right out in front behind the tire, and close to the ground.

Jim

Yeah, the filter on my Vstrom is about as vulnerable to things being ejected from the front tire as any bike. Never had an issue; the filter casings are pretty stout.

Having said that, a longer filter on the hexheads could pose a problem for those who jump rocks, curbs, etc with a non-GS model.

Just my 2 cents worth

There are so many good points made here on what to do for filters and oil. Joining the MOA has been worthwhile for me to hear what everyone else thinks is the best way to go with Beemer questions. I do have the friendly local BMW store but the friendly comes with a price albeit the cost of my gear oil change at 600 miles for a problem BMW is aware of. Isn't it cool for example how BMW knew they have/had a problem with ring gears and we get to pay for a gear lube change to cover their warranty?

What I intended to do by asking what filters and oil others buy is simply this: It seems many BMW guys are grass roots lay on the ground and fix their own stuff people. I like hearing from practical and not out of the dealers mouth for everything. Had I listened to the first dealer I test rode an '07 RT with I would have $1,600 less in my checkbook. I like asking even if it ruffles some feathers.

Ask away! It is what the BMW community is all about.

While the oil filter ball is still rolling...

Has anyone gotten a filter wrench other than the $60 one offered by some of the premium priced BMW shops? I have the R1100 oilhead filter wrench and for what I'm reading I'm wondering does it fit the 2007? I got a pretty nice stamped sheet metal one from my local BMW guy for about $20 bucks and I know Snap-on makes some like it. I just haven't taken time to lay next to the machine and see what's under there. I've worked in heavy industry as a maintenance mechanic for many years but, work too much as of late to do anything but work.

I guess I'm giving myself away not having ridden through the road salt here in PA not wanting to see my pretty machine get all pitted and crappy looking. I'm fine with road dirt and grime but no way to salt on the machine, it stays in the shop til it can get only rain and mud etc.

TGA57589 said:

While the oil filter ball is still rolling...

Has anyone gotten a filter wrench other than the $60 one offered by some of the premium priced BMW shops? I have the R1100 oilhead filter wrench and for what I'm reading I'm wondering does it fit the 2007? I got a pretty nice stamped sheet metal one from my local BMW guy for about $20 bucks and I know Snap-on makes some like it. I just haven't taken time to lay next to the machine and see what's under there. I've worked in heavy industry as a maintenance mechanic for many years but, work too much as of late to do anything but work.

I guess I'm giving myself away not having ridden through the road salt here in PA not wanting to see my pretty machine get all pitted and crappy looking. I'm fine with road dirt and grime but no way to salt on the machine, it stays in the shop til it can get only rain and mud etc.

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the oilhead/k-bike wrench will not fit the hexhead OEM filter.

I started an oil filter thread on the www.R11050R.org website because I was interested in which filters filter best. I too saw the "study" where the guy cuts open filters and that is regarding the construction of the filters and in no way is there anything scientific about cutting them open and "looking at them. I cut a BMW filter open several years ago and they have a screen that the others don't have, but which one filters best. BMW is the company that went for a long oil change interval, so don't look to them for advice! What their engineers know and what the company puts in practice are not always the same.
I recently was crossing over the filter for my Kholer 15hp sawmill engine to change the oil. It is interesting to note that the Pure One filter I came up with($6 Advance auto parts) is the same one shown for the oilhead and my Tundra truck. On the other oil thread I started I mentioned this; you have a 15hp,85hp and 282hp engine all calling for the same filter. Now, you tell me, these engines are far different in service factors ,etc.. You can read there some others thought on this subject of oil filters.

It is mentioned by several on this thread that its either about the$ or not about the$-well some of us are greasy and we like to talk about this stuff anyway! The M3 guy counts his money differently than some of us, but has his solution. As far as oil analysis- it makes sense if you are talking an over the road truck or Army truck which use many quarts of oil, but for the rest of us it's less expensive to change the oil at a reasonable interval in the first place! Buying BMW oil is a joke! Lets not turn this into an oil thread but there are many excellent oils out there and it hurts nothing to shop for price.Mobil 1 ran a E30 BMW for 1 million miles in an old test and the engine never did fail, even though the car had a # of other parts replaced during the test-go figure...
My other thread got a response about the "new" Amsoil oil filters using Nanofibers. I wondered about that as I knew nothing about such and upon googling them found that they were discovered by chance in 1938 and used for filtering in WWII when steel was in short supply-so much for cutting edge technology! I still have not seen a study that measures the actual filtering ability of various filters and am interested to do so, but in the mean time I'll use BMW oil filters form Chicago anyway. BTW, I buy the Mann filters for my car on Ebay as they are the same filter by all appearance. BTW,here are many filter wrenches out there that come in lots of sizes.Bob's comment is the theory I adhere to.

I just bought a Purolator PureOne PL10241 for my 2007 R1200RT (Advance Auto Parts filter $5.88, wrench $4.94) the filter and a stamped metal filfter wrench cost me $11.47 here in PA with tax.

I also went to the BMW store yesterday and bought 5 qts. of 20-50 (petroleum) a filter and a crush washer for $47.97. Now I have all things for my own comparison. I will note the Purolator is 1.25 inches longer than a stock BMW filter but I also put on a set of Wunderlich crash bars that have a piece of tubing that goes under the engine which will protect the longer filter. I don't concern myself with a filter sticking down too much.

I have worked in heavy industry for many years and I see what my employers do with oil in the workplace. I for one with any of my vehicle don't use oil over 3,000 miles before a change. I noticed with my R1100 RT that I had just traded on a R1200 RT that it started using oil at about 2,000 plus area. So, for me I just see it as the oil is getting used up a bit by the time you hit 3,000 so I just change it then. There's no question that lubrication is so much better today that there is no telling how long you could go before even changing a filter. Problem solved for me, unless I'm wrong and I send a rod through my 20k machine but, I also use a $4 filter on my 33k Ford truck too!

My Tundra has so much room in the engine compartment that I choose filters that are nearly twice as long as the one called for. The cost increase is nominal compared to what must be a quantum leap in filtering and a bit more oil too. As far as clearance on my R1150R, I'll say that there is a "topes" in Mexico waiting for a filter that sticks very far!