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Handlebar vibration

B

bmw4life

Guest
I have 06 1200Rt with about 3500 miles. I noticed on my ride last night that there is more vibration felt on my right handle bar then my left. I donÔÇÖt believe I have ever felt vibration like this before on the right side of the handle bar. How did I check for vibration?
I was riding on the freeway at about 70 mph in 6th gear, had the cruise control on and felt for the vibration by gently placing my right finger tips on the right handle bar while my left hand was holding securely to the left handle bar.
I did the same for the left side. Left finger tip gently placed on top of the left handle bar. By doing so I felt difference between the left and right side handle bar. The vibration on the right side is at a point of being uncomfortable.
Anyone experienced the same issue? Any insight as to what the problem is? Someone had suggested that my throttle body is out of sync. Could this be it?
 
I agree

I don't have any answers for your question about vibration but I do agree that there is a significantly worst vibration felt in the right hand. I did the same test you did. I usually have issues with my right hand falling asleep from the vibration (and slight case of carpal tunnel) and I have to shake my hand awake several times during a long ride.

Anybody know the cause, or a good way to eliminate the vibration?
 
I really question why you have a level of vibration that is bothersome. My R1200R has virtually no vibration below 4,500 RPM - and you can go any legal speed you want and not exceed 4,500 RPM. Above 4,500 - there is a slight amount, but not enough to deter me from using the RPMs for accelerating... once I get to "speed" unless it's 2nd gear twisties, I'll usually upshift to get the RPM's down below 5k again.

If you have bothersome amounts below say 5K RPM - I'd be looking at valve adjustment, throttle-body sync (and it's important the valve be right BEFORE doing the TBS.) If that doesn't help - then check all the fasteners on the bike, in particular the front frame mounting bolts to the engine.. and the bar mounts.

Finally if the problem still persists - a few things I found helped on my R1150RS (which was a buzz-master..)

  • Don't wear tight gloves or cuffs on the hand that bothers you.
  • Take off your watch and any sort of bracelet you might have on the bothered hand..
  • Throttle relief (ThrottleMeister - or in my case a $0.20 "O" ring behind the bar-end weight) so you don't have to hold the throttle ON..
  • Heavier bar-end weights
  • Foam grip covers - larger diameter allows for easier grip (www.beemerboneyard.com has some for a very reasonable price.) These go over the standard grips.
I'm curious what RPM you are bothered by vibes? I sold the RS because I couldn't get the vibration down to a level that let me ride it any distance - the R1200R engine seems like an electric motor compared to the 1150 engine I had.
 
My '07 RT seems to vibrate more in the left handle bar. Can't explain the reason why one would vibrate more over the other. It's much better than my Concours, which would put my hand to sleep in 15 miles. So long as I move my hands around and don't hold on tight, I usually don't have a sleeping hand issue on the RT.

I put Salamander bar end weights on mine. They look factory (only larger). Helped, but didn't cure. Maybe we're just more "sensitive" than most guys! I've ridden 2 Wings and they're smoother than parkay right out of the box. Seems the opposed twin ought to come close to the opposed 6 pack.
 
I really question why you have a level of vibration that is bothersome. My R1200R has virtually no vibration below 4,500 RPM - and you can go any legal speed you want and not exceed 4,500 RPM. Above 4,500 - there is a slight amount, but not enough to deter me from using the RPMs for accelerating... once I get to "speed" unless it's 2nd gear twisties, I'll usually upshift to get the RPM's down below 5k again.
I'm with Don. With 16,000 miles (broken in per the manual), my '06RT is almost GoldWing smooth from 3,000~4,500rpm at reasonable throttle settings. And since 4,500 equates to about 84 mph in 6th, I'd be much more concerned about surrounding traffic, radar, errant deer, etc. than a bit of vibration.

Tom K.
 
Seems the opposed twin ought to come close to the opposed 6 pack.
On your twin - there are two honking big pistons going in and out - ~580cc's displacement each. On a 6 cylinder - each piston is much smaller so there is less moving mass, hence - less vibration. A 6 cylinder will also do continuous firing cycles (one of the cylinders is aways firing) where the 2 cylinder boxer has significant time between firings... so more vibration.
 
Thanks for all the info. I checked my throtle body sync at the delearship and everything was in spec. I think it is just a matter of getting use to it.
 
It was known among R1150R riders that trying to see in the right mirror was always worse than the left due to vibration. I was surprised to find both mirrors of my new R1200R are more difficult to see than the left on my R1150R. More vibration or mirror design?

I just ordered the heavy Throttlemeisters.

Has anyone tried getting a Barsnake into a BMW handlebar?

Fred
 
It was known among R1150R riders that trying to see in the right mirror was always worse than the left due to vibration. I was surprised to find both mirrors of my new R1200R are more difficult to see than the left on my R1150R. More vibration or mirror design?

I just ordered the heavy Throttlemeisters.

Has anyone tried getting a Barsnake into a BMW handlebar?

Fred
Fred -

Be difficult to put a Barsnake into the Roadster handlebars since the mounts for the bar end weights are welded into the ends of the bars... plus - if you have heated grips - the wiring runs inside the bars.

FWIW - I have no problems with vibration in the bars. Yes - the mirrors vibrate a bit at some engine RPMs - but there isn't enough vibration to bother my hands, even with long (8-10 hour) rides. I added foam grip covers (from Beemerboneyard) to my grips 'cause I have arthritis and gripping the skinny grips on the Roadster did bother it. With the foam grips - my hands are not an issue on this bike (unlike the R1150RS that I traded in mostly 'cause of the buzzz in the bars..)
 
Don,

I don't feel more vibration, so I think it is mirror stanchion design. The heavier Throttlemeisters are only a few bucks more, so I hope that will allow me to distinguish a B&W cruiser from Grandma's Crown Vic' in my Roadster's mirrors.

Fred
 
Don,

I don't feel more vibration, so I think it is mirror stanchion design. The heavier Throttlemeisters are only a few bucks more, so I hope that will allow me to distinguish a B&W cruiser from Grandma's Crown Vic' in my Roadster's mirrors.

Fred
One thing you might try - since I suspect the TM's are really only going to damp the bar ends (BTDT)..

Try wrapping some heavy plumbers solder around the mirror stalk, right below the mirror head. Maybe a wrap of vinyl electrical tape to make sure it stays in place, or a tie-wrap. Bet the weight at the end of the stalk will tend to damp out the vibrations. Then the trick is - find a heavier mirror (back MANY moons ago - I found Harley mirrors didn't vibrate.. don't know how they did it - but on my R65 which buzzed the stock mirrors something awful - the HD mirrors were dead clear..)

FWIW - I have heard of people adding weight inside stock mirrors by drilling a hole and putting lead shot in then plugging the hole. Dunno how well it worked.. but if you have a spare mirror to play with - that's a possibility. I suspect additonal mass to damp vibrations will work best if located at the point you want the vibration damped out. But I could be fullabeans on that too.. :)
 
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