1978 r100

[SCBuckeye]

Do you have the bags to go with that bag mount?

 

[godfather]

I am wondering what the trick was to cure the leaks?


PM sent

 

[SCBuckeye]

When I purchased my '78 R100/7, I for sure thought I had oil leaks as there was all sorts of oily build up all over the engine. Once cleaned up, however, I found out that it just appeared that way and I concluded that it was because the PO just didn't clean the engine (or much else) up very well. I now have over 5,000 miles later and hardly a residue of oil anywhere. I think all the engines have SOME seepage, but if regularly cleaned, they are hardly noticeable.

My bike, however, never had any "dripping" oil - ever, so yours could have been worse and need further attention, but sounds good as is.

Make sure all moving critical items are properly lubed, and ride and enjoy.

Actually mine has become my joy! I can't tell you how much pleasure it brings just to ride and enjoy the smoothness, and quietness. I am thinking of kicking the wife out of the house, and bringing in my newest partner!

 

[EMSimon]

Do you have the bags to go with that bag mount?

Why do you ask that question, Jim?

 

[kwb210]

not trying to hijack...

Yes I do, they look nice, I like the older style.
Thanks for noticing!
Kurt

Do you have the bags to go with that bag mount?

 

[godfather]

The fun begins...

All of my tune up stuff will arrive tomorrow.
Mufflers Friday
Tires and related items hopefully Friday

I WILL BE ASKING QUESTIONS WHEN I STUMBLE...because...

Doing this in a vacuum with no prior experience is pretty much not feasible.

Here is what I have on my weekend to do list...in this order

Torque heads
Adjust valves
Replace rocker cover gaskets
Install new plugs
Install new air filter
Install new fuel line
Install new fuel filters
Adjust clutch
Install new battery
Install new mufflers
Go for a ride to get bike to operating temp
Adjust carbs to baseline specs
Go for another ride and tweak carbs (not while riding) until satisfied

WHILE EVERYTHING IS AT OPERATING TEMP...
Change engine oil and filter
Change trans lube
Change FD lube
Change driveshaft lube
...yes I have all new crush washers and proper torque specs

If I run out of time...no problem, there is always next weekend

Next weekend...
Finish whatever does not get done this weekend
Instal new tires, tubes and rim strips
Bleed front brakes and change fluid

All the while I will be cleaning, polishing, detailing and waxing every nut, bolt, nook and cranny till she looks good as new.

Yeah Baby! Fun Fun Fun

 

[kwb210]

oil pan

One additional item you can consider is removing the oil pan. With the low miles the bike has been sitting...lots! For less than $9.00 cost of a pan gasket you can first off see if there is anything in the pan that should not be there! Second, wipe off all the black probably thick old oil before it circulated into the engine. Check the oil pump bolts and look to see if the screen is clean. What I usually do when I buy a bike is remove the oil pan and clean it up, new gasket and take care on tightening the fasteners!!! Not to much. Check the oil pump bolts. Then I add regular motor oil, 10-30 or 10-40 or whatever and ride it for about 25 miles. Then a full oil and filter change with Spectro 20w-50. The idea on the cheap oil is I just want to make sure the inside of the engine is free of minor gunk from sitting so long.
You will have lots of fun getting her ready to ride.
Best regards,
Kurt

 

[godfather]

One additional item you can consider is removing the oil pan. With the low miles the bike has been sitting...lots! For less than $9.00 cost of a pan gasket you can first off see if there is anything in the pan that should not be there! Second, wipe off all the black probably thick old oil before it circulated into the engine. Check the oil pump bolts and look to see if the screen is clean. What I usually do when I buy a bike is remove the oil pan and clean it up, new gasket and take care on tightening the fasteners!!! Not to much. Check the oil pump bolts. Then I add regular motor oil, 10-30 or 10-40 or whatever and ride it for about 25 miles. Then a full oil and filter change with Spectro 20w-50. The idea on the cheap oil is I just want to make sure the inside of the engine is free of minor gunk from sitting so long.
You will have lots of fun getting her ready to ride.
Best regards,
Kurt

I forgot to put that in my post, it's on the list. I have the gasket on my bench.
Thanks for the reminder to check the oil pump bolts and to use EXTREME CAUTION when tightening the pan bolts.

 

[godfather]

Rocker cover gaskets

Here is my first of which will be many questions...
even though

Doing this in a vacuum with no prior experience is pretty much not feasible.

There's little difference made by conversing on a forum. ..... I will ask any way.

My rocker cover gaskets are literally baked on to the heads. I am sure they are the original cork ones.
I am in the, very slow and tedious, process of using a razor blade to get as close to the machined surface withoutnicking the metal. Is there a solvent that will help in this process and what is best used to get that final mil of gasket up without damage to the head?

I need a beer!

TIA,
GF

 

[20774]

Personally, I would have left them stuck to the head...I think this is the way it's supposed to be...there was heat activated glue which kept them stuck. Moving on, I'd find some stiff plastic and work it that way. Maybe try some of the cleaners used to cut the carbon on top of the pistons like Hydroseal or Simple Green. Simple Green can be caustic to aluminum if left on too long especially when used full strength.

 

[godfather]

If they were not leaking I'd left them alone.
I'm thinking motor oil and white soft scotch brite pads. Or mineral spirits. Of course being careful not to contaminate the oil on the valve train.
I'll let you know what works.

 

[SCBuckeye]

I forgot to put that in my post, it's on the list. I have the gasket on my bench.
Thanks for the reminder to check the oil pump bolts and to use EXTREME CAUTION when tightening the pan bolts.

When I purchased my used R100, there were no "leaks" in the sense of dripping on the floor. However, I did notice that there were lots of oil residue on the pan and just behind it. There was probably leakage, however, when running as the crankcase is under pressure each time the pistons start on their downstrokes. I carefully went around all the 14 pan bolts and checked the tightness. All seemed too loose, so I tightened more. I noticed at that time that the gasket seemed very soft.

I ordered a new gasket but didn't replace until yesterday. When doing another repair, I noticed that 2 of these bolts had actually backed out about 1/8" !! WOW! The old gasket when removed was like a piece of jelly rubber. No matter how much tightening it would have seeped under crankcase pressure.

The point I am making in all of this? Be sure to check those bolts regularly. If too tight - they smash the gasket too much! If too loose, they could actually unscrew themselves!

 

[godfather]

Here is what I have DONE on my weekend to do list...
X...Torque heads
X...Adjust valves
X...Replace rocker cover gaskets
X...Install new plugs
Install new air filter
Install new fuel line
Install new fuel filters
Adjust clutch
Install new battery
Install new mufflers
Go for a ride to get bike to operating temp
Adjust carbs to baseline specs
Go for another ride and tweak carbs (not while riding) until satisfied

WHILE EVERYTHING IS AT OPERATING TEMP...
Drain engine oil
Remove and clean oil pan, pump/screen
Torque oil pump
Replace oil pan with new gasket
Install new oil filter and oil
Change trans lube
Change FD lube
Change driveshaft lube
...yes I have all new crush washers and proper torque specs

If I run out of time...no problem, there is always next weekend

Next weekend...
Finish whatever does not get done this weekend
Instal new tires, tubes and rim strips
Bleed front brakes and change fluid

 

[SCBuckeye]

Here is my first of which will be many questions...
even though

Doing this in a vacuum with no prior experience is pretty much not feasible.

There's little difference made by conversing on a forum. ..... I will ask any way.

My rocker cover gaskets are literally baked on to the heads. I am sure they are the original cork ones.
I am in the, very slow and tedious, process of using a razor blade to get as close to the machined surface withoutnicking the metal. Is there a solvent that will help in this process and what is best used to get that final mil of gasket up without damage to the head?

I need a beer!

TIA,
GF

Rusty at Max's BMW put me on to using a solvent. I used Xylol from my local hardware and it softened all that old gasket glue material. Did not harm or discolor aluminum, in fact it helped clean it.

However, just a warning. There is no benefit to asking anyone here for information!

REALLY, I have found these people invaluable because many have been through these things many times and have lots of great advice and insights.

 

[godfather]

REALLY, I have found these people invaluable because many have been through these things many times and have lots of great advice and insights.

this is so true! when I had my /5 a few years back, every problem I had was resolved with the help of our MOA family.

BTW I did get the gaskets cleaned off with a few razor blades, some brake Kleen on A rag and a lot of patience

 

[godfather]

Weekend Update

Here is what I have DONE on my weekend to do list...
X...Torque heads
X...Adjust valves
X...Replace rocker cover gaskets
X...Install new plugs
X...Install new air filter
X...Install new fuel line
X...Install new fuel filters
Adjust clutch
X...Install new battery
X...Install new mufflers
X...Go for a ride to get bike to operating temp
THEN KEPT RIDING BECAUSE EVERYTHING WAS OPERATING SO WELL, I DID NOT WANT TO STOP, BUT HAD TO

My Bing manual did not arrive, so I did not mess with the carbs yet.
Adjust carbs to baseline specs
Go for another ride and tweak carbs (not while riding) until satisfied

WHILE EVERYTHING IS AT OPERATING TEMP...
X..Drain engine oil
X...Install new oil filter and oil

I have been doing lots of cleaning along the way too. Every area I have been working in has been cleaned and re-cleaned getting it all spiffed up for extreme detailing and wax.

THEN I RAN OUT OF TIME...

Change trans lube
Change FD lube
Change driveshaft lube
...yes I have all new crush washers and proper torque specs

I am amazed at the power of this old airhead and how smooth it is even without doing anything to the carbs.
After the Bing's get set up I'm sure this thing is gonna purr like a kitten!

 

[kwb210]

Your comment about cleaning:
Quote "I have been doing lots of cleaning along the way too. Every area I have been working in has been cleaned and re-cleaned getting it all spiffed up for extreme detailing and wax." quote

I just finished up an 1977 R100 that had really not been cleaned for a long time, the picture looks terrible but some of it is grease from the leaking pushrod seals. Here is the picture of the FD before I used WD40 and a bunch of scotch brite pads. I don't use other cleaners because I don't want to loose the original look. Plus you risk leaving streaks running t=down the metal. I am also guessing that the WD40 must kind of get into the pores of the metal because when it gets dirty again it is a fairly quick job to clean compared to the first time. Probably spent 15-20 minutes rubbing and rubbing. Came out really shiny!
How is the progress coming? I had to post these to make sure you were keeping up on your list!
Regards,
Kurt

 

[godfather]

Looks great!
I picked up a bunch of Scotch Brite pads before vacation. I will get th WD 40 when I get home next week.
In NE right now driving a 914 home from LA with a friend.

Will keep updating as I progress

 

[helmut_head]

Scotch Brite Pads

Guys...just don't use those pads where debris can get inside of any critical components. Broken down and mixed with lubricants, they create an acid and leave debris that have lunched many bearings in our lab, somewhere in SE Michigan. Be careful.

 

[godfather]

I did not know that...
THANK YOU!