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New Airhead

Kurt,

Congratulations! Great job. Absolutely beautiful bike - couldn't be happier for you. You can now bask in the glory of self-accomplishment and true appreciation for doing this project with your own hands.

Enjoy it - ride often, and ride safe.

-Mike V.
 
Excellent job on the restoration and beautiful bike. :clap I imagine it will be easier to keep clean in San Diego than it would be here in Portland. Go ahead and get it dirty and ride it long and often.

Thanks for sharing the photo essay.
 
Thanks everyone

Thanks for the kind words: Wow, it's been an interesting 9 months, that's for sure! The bikini fairing is on now, and I blew my 8 amp fuse hooking up the voltmeter, but I'll get that replaced.
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More pictures tonight with those stupid plastic rivets and the clear windshield on...

Now comes the mirrors: for now, I think I'm going to put on my non-stock grips and put on the bar end mirrors and see what it looks like: also that will get me ready for the infamous registration process here in California. Early on in my thread, Mike V and I had a good discussion about the EPA sticker and AAA; and I hope the guy there will honor his word and get my registration done without the sticker: he told me I'd be fine if the bike and the engine has the VIN on it, which it does..
Crossing my fingers on that one.

There is a instantaneous hesistation , or almost as if the clutch is slipping when I roll on the power coming into second gear... shaking my head that I didn't replace the disc and the spring while I was in there, but it still had plenty of life in it; maybe the material is contaminated and I didn't catch it? Any ideas?

I plan on going to a tech day here in San Diego I believe in April or May and see if someone can help me figure that out, also synch the carbs up: she shakes sideways just a tiny bit at idle, like a wannabe Harley....cute.

Oh, BTW, the oil pan thing was remedied by draining a quart.. For those of you with an aftermarket MAC oilpan....it gives you about over 1.2 quarts over stock, not two!
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It is easy to check the clutch for slipping. Get up to about 30 mph and drop it down a couple of gears to get the rpm into the power band, about 4K. Then give full throttle. If the clutch slips the tack will show it.
 
Very nice bike Kurt!

Did you see my message about the Valve Covers?

Yes, I did, Darryl: I see that the fins are rounded on one side and squared on another...is that what you're talking about? After reading two other valve cover threads, I don't understand the polished fin reference. Also there doesn't seem to be an up or down, but a back and forward...which implies it doesn't matter what side you put them on, yes? I'm probably just not seeing it: another great reason to have the forum like this...
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Is this 78 one of the bikes where the valves hit the cover if you have them reversed?
Thanks for noticing, Darryl...and YES Mike, I'll put that tab on the airbox, I promise! :burnout
 

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Kurt...see how the 4 horizontal fins line up with the small horizontal fin on the head, near the intake port? Basically, there should be two horizontal fins above and two below that line on the head. Compare to the similar fin arrangements on the other picture (near the exhaust port in this case).
 
Hi Kurt;
When you stand back and look at your bike the fins tilt up at the front, they should sit level.
I think you have them on the wrong side.
Mine are marked L & R in the depression of the sparkplug relief.

Nice pics!
 
good pic explanation Darryl.
and in reference to a slightly earlier quesiton- have never heard of a valve cover allowing contact with the valve train assembly, and most certainly not a '78. it was common practice to flip VCs to the opposite side if one got a bit "thin" from asphalt surfing. just an appearance issue in terms of R or L being on the "right" or "wrong" side.
 
Valve cover alignment; left or right side?

Okay guys, perfect: I see it now, . Which is just fine, since the R side is leaking a few drops anyway... Left side is dry after a 15 minute ride...
I'm ordering the silicone gaskets and will ride her the way she is for 100 miles or so, and swap them when I check the valves again.

SOCAL Air Marshall Gary Jackson is having a tech day on the 19th of March here in San Diego, so I plan on going, talking about that slippage and talk carb synch too.

Today is AAA, registration day. Crossing my fingers..
 
Powerlet plug and carb synch

Okay, two "gucci" issues, now that the heavy lifting is over.... First one is putting a powerlet plug on the airhead to match my 06 RT and my 96 R850R: I'm thinking that I'm going to buy another 12$ trickle charger from Harbor Freight and modify it so it has a powerlet male end, and then I can use the charger for all three bikes..

Install this powerlet socket on the bike somewhere convenient..
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Put the male end from powerlet.com....
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on this charger:
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Then I will have a trickle charger for all three bikes..

Second issue: How does one synch the carbs on these flatheads?? I don't see any vacuum takeoff on them..
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As for synching, you're out of luck on using the TwinMax for that. Bing would be glad to install vacuum takeoff ports...or they sell a kit with instuctions.

The other way is to use the plug shorting method that Snowbum discusses. It's perfectly acceptable to do, provided you make solid contact with the spark plug extension and the engine case. It's all about providing a path to ground for the spark energy. The normal path is for the energy to jump from the plug electrode to the body/threads and then to ground. Or by putting extenders between the plug connector and the high tension cap, you can use a long handled screwdriver to make-break contact with the engine case, effectively shutting down a cylinder.

Another time consuming method is to use the mixture screw. Once you've determined the best idle mixture, you can turn the screw all the way in to shut off the gas flow, thus stopping the cylinder. Having counted the number of turns to do that, you can return the screw back to its original setting. Repeat for the other side.
 
I have a question about the carbs. I notice that on my bike, the carbs are tilted inward. Does this mess with the float level? Are they supposed to be level with the ground, or tilted inward?

Also, I noticed that one of my air cleaner tubes was backward from the other one. I'm going to install them the way they fit the best, they seemed alright, but I had 2 clamps at the carb on one & 1 clamp at the carb on the other!
 
I've heard that slightly tilted in at the top is the best position. A slight tilt shouldn't affect the float action.
 
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