gtgt_bangbang
New member
one of these things is not like the other FLOATING HUB CONVERSION - halfway home
the old hub separates from the disc by grinding off the rivet head on the waste-side
( waste side= attacked the rivet head from the steel /disc side with the grinding wheel,
so the re-used hub doesn't get scored up)
After grinding the rivets to just below the disc surface ,
I used a spring-powered drill-starting / nail-setter , aka a "dimpler" , to drive the rest of the rivet out through the hub side.
A couple sticky rivets needed a few modest taps with a punch,
but support well the immediate area and dont over do it, as bending the aluminum hub may ruin it.
A little heat (whats with gt anyway; always bringing the heat ??? ) would expand the aluminum hub from the sticky steel rivet,
to remove easier. Mine werent that bad.
the floater rotor kit came with nyloc nuts & still suggested thread loc compound,
I'll probably just replace those with all-metal AND some RED or high-heat / stronger thread locker
the old hub separates from the disc by grinding off the rivet head on the waste-side
( waste side= attacked the rivet head from the steel /disc side with the grinding wheel,
so the re-used hub doesn't get scored up)
After grinding the rivets to just below the disc surface ,
I used a spring-powered drill-starting / nail-setter , aka a "dimpler" , to drive the rest of the rivet out through the hub side.
A couple sticky rivets needed a few modest taps with a punch,
but support well the immediate area and dont over do it, as bending the aluminum hub may ruin it.
A little heat (whats with gt anyway; always bringing the heat ??? ) would expand the aluminum hub from the sticky steel rivet,
to remove easier. Mine werent that bad.
the floater rotor kit came with nyloc nuts & still suggested thread loc compound,
I'll probably just replace those with all-metal AND some RED or high-heat / stronger thread locker
Last edited: