Today I drove 160 miles from Medina, Ohio to Detroit to "seal the deal" on the purchase of a 2004 R1150R. About to test drive and I couldn't get into 1st gear from neutral after repeated attempts. So I put it into 2nd gear, did not drive off, but then went to neutral and then it did engage 1st gear. So I test drove in a very large parking lot and went through the gears several times, did some rapid stops and swerves etc. However, several times it refused to go into 1st gear, and would only do so after first going up to 2nd. I know this isn't normal, or acceptable. When I got the bike back into the garage, the mechanic experienced the same thing. But when he rolled back just a couple of inches when in neutral, it easily engaged into 1st. I drove back the 160 miles pretty deflated as I was excited about the bike otherwise. Should I forget about it and find another bike, or is this probably just a minor fix? I don't have anywhere near enough tech knowledge to answer this question.
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Trouble shifting into 1st gear
- Thread starter corbtown
- Start date
ultracyclist
New member
trouble shifting into 1st
1. Double clutch. Or...
2. Preload the shifter. There are threads previously on this. With a bit of practice, you are an expert.
1. Double clutch. Or...
2. Preload the shifter. There are threads previously on this. With a bit of practice, you are an expert.
If double clutch means pulling in the lever, I tried that several times. But what does preload the shifter mean? And where can I find the previous threads? I'm very new at navigating this forum. Thanks for the comments.
bikerfish1100
New member
BMWs can be recalcitrant going into 1st. squeeze clutch, downshift while slightly rolling forward (or back, if you prefer). sometimes the internals don't line up quite right at rest, sometimes they do.
my R11S has 70K on it- most times it shifts into first with a silent snick, other times a loud clunk, sometimes it needs some motion to make it go (more commonly when cold).
also easing the clutch out ever so slowly while shifting down with steady pressure (don't punch it!) will usually lead to success.
my R11S has 70K on it- most times it shifts into first with a silent snick, other times a loud clunk, sometimes it needs some motion to make it go (more commonly when cold).
also easing the clutch out ever so slowly while shifting down with steady pressure (don't punch it!) will usually lead to success.
roborider
God? What god?
There's no problem with the bike. First gear I believe is not synchromeshed, but I could be wrong there. Here's the trick. I've done this on my old 75/5 as well as my R12RT. Follow this and you'll NEVER have a problem.
First, realize you don't need to pull the clutch lever the entire way to shift. Heck, you can do clutchless shifting although I don't do that much. Pull the clutch in about half way. Shift into first. If you find it won't go, maintain pressure on the shifter as you slowly let the clutch out. Before you hit the friction point of the clutch, the bike will pop right into gear. Eventually you'll figure out how much you need to pull in the clutch and it'll be second nature. It's no big deal, and it's no problem and you'll soon not even remember it was a "problem".
What you are doing is letting a bit of clutch spin the transmission shaft and that allow the teeth on the gears to line up.
First, realize you don't need to pull the clutch lever the entire way to shift. Heck, you can do clutchless shifting although I don't do that much. Pull the clutch in about half way. Shift into first. If you find it won't go, maintain pressure on the shifter as you slowly let the clutch out. Before you hit the friction point of the clutch, the bike will pop right into gear. Eventually you'll figure out how much you need to pull in the clutch and it'll be second nature. It's no big deal, and it's no problem and you'll soon not even remember it was a "problem".
What you are doing is letting a bit of clutch spin the transmission shaft and that allow the teeth on the gears to line up.
Once in a great while my '99 does not go into first gear, the one you rode does not sound right to me. Anyway why not try to test ride another, if it shifts better it may be something with bike #1 if it shifts the same it may be you, then you can experiment with shifting styles. Or you buy bike #1 and find out "no they don't all do that" If you decide to buy bike #1 anyway make sure you get it with some warranty. Why buy a bike with a possible trans. problem? Ride a few more.
Robo you shift into first clutchless? I would think that would be noisy to say the least.
Robo you shift into first clutchless? I would think that would be noisy to say the least.
greenwald
New member
All makes can be a bit 'stubborn' going into first gear, but I noticed my BMW to have a bit more attitude than normal.
What I teach to my students in both my Basic Rider and Experienced Rider classes (MSF) is simply to put a little pressure on the gearshift lever with their foot, and ease out the clutch lever ever so slightly.
Will shift into first gear every time.
Happy riding.
What I teach to my students in both my Basic Rider and Experienced Rider classes (MSF) is simply to put a little pressure on the gearshift lever with their foot, and ease out the clutch lever ever so slightly.
Will shift into first gear every time.
Happy riding.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
+1, well explained
godfather
New member
This may be as simple as a loose shift linkage, I would check that first, or there may be serious trans problems ie; bad bearings, shift forks worn etc. There are a lot of threads on the topic. A trans lube analysyis can detect impending doom.
There are many bikes for sale....
There are many bikes for sale....
pglaves
#13338
Sliding into first gear with the bike at a standstill can be a problem. You are sticking square pegs into square holes. If the two stationary parts happen to have stopped turning with the pegs aimed squarely at the holes it will go into gear. If not, it won't.
So you have to get one or the other of the parts (pegs or holes) turned so they then line up. You can do it by pushing the bike forward or backward but the easy way is to just let the clutch out slightly while pushing on the shift lever.
This is normal. Now if this doesn't work, or results in very strange noises (other than the typical clunk) then there may be a problem.
So you have to get one or the other of the parts (pegs or holes) turned so they then line up. You can do it by pushing the bike forward or backward but the easy way is to just let the clutch out slightly while pushing on the shift lever.
This is normal. Now if this doesn't work, or results in very strange noises (other than the typical clunk) then there may be a problem.
roborider
God? What god?
Hah! No, you got me there. No clutchless shifting into 1 from a standstill, but I've clutchess shifted from second to first with no issues. I'm not recommending clutchless shifting, but it is a skill I practiced when my clutch cable on my R75 broke.
My buddy would pull me up to speed and I'd clutchless shift from there, rolling through every light and stop sign I could to get home. Yeah, it was hairy. It's kind of a cool thing to try and play with as it is pretty easy once you get the hang of it.
Robo
Yeah I have done it for years, learned to do it on my '73 Honda 450. Just never really tried it at a standstill into first.
ANDYVH
New member
My 94 R1100RS, with the 96 spec tranny in it, shifts into 1st, neutral or 2nd, easily and consistently. Now, my bike has 138k+ miles on it, with over 65k on this transmission, and about 20K on the clutch I installed three years ago.
But one thing that I feel does make a big difference is proper lubing of the clutch hub splines, and proper clutch cable adjustment. Both make a big difference in clutch actuation. In your case, I suspect slight clutch drag makes getting into first or shifting to neutral difficult. I don't accept that clutch hub splines are "lubed for life" or "require no lube", and my bike has great clutch actuation and feel.
I use synthetic 75W90 gear lube in the tranny, with NAPA limited slip additive, and I use Staburag or its equivalent to lube the clutch splines. I feel the clutch splines should be lubed about evey 30k miles. Something perfect to work on during the cold Wisconsin winter!
But one thing that I feel does make a big difference is proper lubing of the clutch hub splines, and proper clutch cable adjustment. Both make a big difference in clutch actuation. In your case, I suspect slight clutch drag makes getting into first or shifting to neutral difficult. I don't accept that clutch hub splines are "lubed for life" or "require no lube", and my bike has great clutch actuation and feel.
I use synthetic 75W90 gear lube in the tranny, with NAPA limited slip additive, and I use Staburag or its equivalent to lube the clutch splines. I feel the clutch splines should be lubed about evey 30k miles. Something perfect to work on during the cold Wisconsin winter!
Daedalus214
New member
Corbtown,
If you are used to riding a japanese bike then it can be disconcerting at first to shift from neutral to 1st gear on a BMW. I never had a problem with my Kawasaki, however I have experienced it numerous times with the BMW; not all the time but often enough. Until someone explained it to me (RoboRider's explanation is dead nuts on), I would try to bang the shifter into first without effect. Now I easily put it into gear without even thinking about it.
I believe it has something to due with the way the gears are machined. BMW uses straight-cut gears and japanese bikes use helical-cut gears. If 1st gear on the BMW does not exactly line up, it will not rotate into place and you have to gently let the clutch out while putting pressure on the shifter. The helical-cut gear tends to more easily rotate into place with pressure on the shifter. At least that is my story and I am sticking with it.
If you are used to riding a japanese bike then it can be disconcerting at first to shift from neutral to 1st gear on a BMW. I never had a problem with my Kawasaki, however I have experienced it numerous times with the BMW; not all the time but often enough. Until someone explained it to me (RoboRider's explanation is dead nuts on), I would try to bang the shifter into first without effect. Now I easily put it into gear without even thinking about it.
I believe it has something to due with the way the gears are machined. BMW uses straight-cut gears and japanese bikes use helical-cut gears. If 1st gear on the BMW does not exactly line up, it will not rotate into place and you have to gently let the clutch out while putting pressure on the shifter. The helical-cut gear tends to more easily rotate into place with pressure on the shifter. At least that is my story and I am sticking with it.
I was able to get some time out on the bike today and I really paid attention. I had never really had a problem shifting into first at a dead stop. Anyway I thought maybe I was doing the tricky stuff and not noticing, you know had the bike long enough that I did whatever without realizing I was doing it. Well I'm not - pull in the clutch put the bike in first off I go. Maybe because mine has a cable I don't know. My bike just does not exhibit this "they all do that" trait. So do these things really start to shift really well right before they die? That would be my luck.
ANDYVH
New member
With a cable actuated clutch, it is important to set up the clutch adjustment properly. Step for step, by memory though:
1. Back of the adjuster barrel locknut at the left grip, and turn the barrel adjuster into to insure free play.
2. At the back of the tranny, us a 13mm deep well socket to loosen the locknut, and back it off.
3. Then adjust the take up rod by turning the adjuster bolt until you feel it just touch the rod.
4. Now, pull in the clutch lever to put pressure on the bolt, and tighten the locknut at the adjuster bolt.
5. Now back at the grip, adjust the barrel until you get 7mm play at the lever, measured between the lever and the clutch perch.
6. Finally, at the left grip, the gap between the barrel nut and locknut should be 12mm.
That 12mm gap would seem inconsequential, but I believe it positions the cabel coming out of the clutch perch with minimal side loading during actuation. A shorter gap may cause excessive side wear on the cable. I replaced the original clutch cable on my 94 RS at 115k, not because it broke, I just felt it was time to do it. I keep it on the bike as a spare/backup.
1. Back of the adjuster barrel locknut at the left grip, and turn the barrel adjuster into to insure free play.
2. At the back of the tranny, us a 13mm deep well socket to loosen the locknut, and back it off.
3. Then adjust the take up rod by turning the adjuster bolt until you feel it just touch the rod.
4. Now, pull in the clutch lever to put pressure on the bolt, and tighten the locknut at the adjuster bolt.
5. Now back at the grip, adjust the barrel until you get 7mm play at the lever, measured between the lever and the clutch perch.
6. Finally, at the left grip, the gap between the barrel nut and locknut should be 12mm.
That 12mm gap would seem inconsequential, but I believe it positions the cabel coming out of the clutch perch with minimal side loading during actuation. A shorter gap may cause excessive side wear on the cable. I replaced the original clutch cable on my 94 RS at 115k, not because it broke, I just felt it was time to do it. I keep it on the bike as a spare/backup.
jsoque
New member
Squeeze only 1/2 way
Hey Corb:
I did the same thing when I got my '04 1150R, and that was just this June '08.
I thought I was doing something wrong and had to put the guys to work on it for me... well, guys and gals.
There is a thread out there with 30 messsages on "smooth shifting technique", just like this issue you are having. I think I started it, or jumped in on it back in July '08.
I was told to squeeze the clutch all the way in,
then, let it out about 1/2 way,
gently, click into first gear with your left toe,
and, you should be all set from that point.
Should work every time, and I'm up another two thousand five hundred miles because of it.
I was also told to not let the back tire down-rev you to a slower traveling speed, as you slow yourself.
So, either hold the clutch in as you decelerate and coast yourself to a stop, or, down shift appropriately to a lower gear, as you approach your stop (or slowing) point.
But, in essence, don't go from 75 to 30 mph all in 5th gear, then decide you are going to squeeze in the clutch....
Ride safe.
Jim
Hey Corb:
I did the same thing when I got my '04 1150R, and that was just this June '08.
I thought I was doing something wrong and had to put the guys to work on it for me... well, guys and gals.
There is a thread out there with 30 messsages on "smooth shifting technique", just like this issue you are having. I think I started it, or jumped in on it back in July '08.
I was told to squeeze the clutch all the way in,
then, let it out about 1/2 way,
gently, click into first gear with your left toe,
and, you should be all set from that point.
Should work every time, and I'm up another two thousand five hundred miles because of it.
I was also told to not let the back tire down-rev you to a slower traveling speed, as you slow yourself.
So, either hold the clutch in as you decelerate and coast yourself to a stop, or, down shift appropriately to a lower gear, as you approach your stop (or slowing) point.
But, in essence, don't go from 75 to 30 mph all in 5th gear, then decide you are going to squeeze in the clutch....
Ride safe.
Jim
