• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

Some thoughts on the new RT so far PLUS color-matched top case

roadwolf

New member
Today I hit 1800 miles on the new RT making the 50 miles or so round trip to get my color matched top case from the paint shop. He did a great job (Dillashaw's Bikes and Customs in Easley, SC, recommended by Touring Sport BMW in Greenville).

I thought I'd take a moment to not only show pics, but to comment on the switch from the K1600GT to the RT and the experience so far.

Man, it was hard to give up the GT... I have never, ever experienced a motor like that, in a bike OR a car. It was addictive, plain and simple. I never really had a problem with the bike otherwise as well. My only complaint was tire life... anyone who tells you stories of 12,000 miles of life on that bike is just telling you... well, stories.

So, flash forward about 16 months from the purchase of the GT in October 2012. New RT hits the press and when I saw one in the flesh early February at TS, I knew I had a quandary.... it is just a stunning motorcycle to behold. BMW Motorrad nailed it from the get go... the only stylistic complaint is the nose heavy look from certain angles, but they did their best attempt to hide those radiators tucked up under the front, ala GS side blades. Still, it was love at first sight. The Quartz Blue I was looking at that Saturday in my first encounter reminded me so much of that first blue used in 1996 on the R1100RT. Really looks great. I continued to see more new RTs, especially at the Asheville Club meeting at Eurosport one Tuesday night not long after that first encounter. They had two, sat on them both, with my friends grinning at me as I was grinning from ear to ear. One of them said, "Give him a few weeks and we will see him on one on the next club ride." Well, how right he was as not but a few weeks later that is exactly what happened.

I hemmed and hawed over the switch at the dealership last month, walked away twice because of the inline 6 motor. But the lure of the RT, especially now in the Ebony Metallic paint, was too much to resist. The ride home confirmed that it was indeed the right decision. The difference between the GT and RT was immediate (less weight, more nimble, better wind protection).

The coming weeks was getting adjusted to (and liking very much) the Pro Shift Assist and the Hill Start Control. The Pro Shift I use, maybe, 25 percent of the time and that is only because of muscle memory still wanting to use the clutch. The use of the clutch is smoother for gear transitions, but that may also be because I haven't quite mastered the use of clutchless shifting. The Hill Start control I use not just on grades, but whenever I want to release my hand from the brake and still keep the rear brake light lit up (I have the top case brake light as well, so this is really nice).

A note about the engine. Yes, it is not as smooth as the K series, but what else is? But it is really strong for a boxer. It is really smooth and continues to be at speed. It pulls eagerly and you can lug it down low and still get going. Also, I can't believe I am typing this, but either I did the break in just right or BMW has really improved on oil consumption with the new water heads, but it hasn't used a drop of oil (practically none, compared to my old RTs and GS). It has a throaty exhaust note when you get on it, not so much at idle, but that has always been the case on all my boxers... what do they say, body by BMW, engine by Singer.

All the other bells and whistles work as advertised. The Nav V is a much improved GPS over the old Nav IV. I do wish that they had figured out a way to lock it to the panel like the GT, but I can see why they didn't do it like the GT was. Only hope that someone isn't that smart to figure it out (I leave it with the bike all the time). The accessing the radio and other Audio buttons on the lower left panel is easier than the GT/GTL... those are mounted much lower. I like the storage compartment on the RT, up higher and easier to get at.

The readability of the tach and speedo are A LOT better than the tighter font and hash marks of the art deco styled GT versions. Lighting of the dash is brighter it seems as well (probably the effect of the easier to ready tach and speedo) PLUS the dash is adjustable on the angle. My sales guy didn't even know this when I showed it to him.

And more importantly on the subject of lighting, the visibility of the RT during daytime running is much better with the conventional H7 bulb on the center headlamp over the Adaptive headlight on the K bike. Plus, the angel eyes are several degrees brighter as well.

Stock seat is waiting to be replaced by the BMW high seat coming from Germany (along with the accessory lights and cylinder guards, those in Germany as well). Seating position is actually a little tighter than the final set up I had on my GT (Sargent seat), but with the high seat and the Suburban Machinery foot peg lowering kit, I should be fine (hope that the Suburban Machinery kit doesn't mean I have to figure out how to lower the shifter and rear brake pedal down, although those that have already done so don't seem to mind the new foot positions, will see).

As you can see in the pics, I added the tank bag as well. Not as user friendly as the old RT rail system, but still a very nice bag and really not difficult to take on or off if you are used to either the GS bag or the GT bag.

So, after some miles, I think this one is a keeper. My last RT I put just under 80,000 miles on it in 6 years. I think this one is going be much the same thing based on the rides so far. Loving it and think that BMW is going to have a lot of these in production to keep up with demand.






 
Very nice review. My RT is not coming until the end of May so I love reading reviews like yours. Very informative and I am surprised you went from a 1600GT to a 1200GT. I am glad that it is working out for you. I am trading in a K1300GT, I don't need all that power and it sounds like I should be getting more wind protection and a better touring bike with the RT. I never liked the old RT because it didn't seem to have enough power, but it sounds like the new RT will do just great.
 
The job and the paint look great. But $350, that's nuts in my book no wonder BMW asks close to $1600 for the case plus $230 something for the light and if you want chrome, well... I do like the case a lot. Just came off a 3 day road trip the case is great! I'm going to stay with the silver, my recent Arai Signet is silver that helps me keep the $350 in my pocket.

Thanks for the great pics

Jay
 
Suburban Machinery foot peg lowering kit

I have looked on their web site and they show nothing for the 2014 RT. What kit are people using? Just got some new daytona boots and they will barley fit so I can shift. I am shifting with the sole edge more than the toe area. There is no adjustment in the new shift lefver. I had my last top case painted midnight blue. I will probably have the new one painted when I get it. I don't understand why a $20000 + bike doens't have a color matched topcase as an option. Other manufacturers offer this option. Or come standard with the bike.
 
I have looked on their web site and they show nothing for the 2014 RT.

Buck, the Suburban Machinery Kit for the old RT fits the new one, according to the rep at SM. My parts guy at Touring Sport confirmed this, and I as surprised to find that the kit is compatible all the way back to the first gen oil head RT.

I think the shifting will be tight, so an extension will be in order... only thing is the shifter extension on their site is ONLY for the previous generation R1200RT, THAT they don't have for the new RT yet. Will see how it works out.
 
Thanks I ordered a set. Wunderlich has them but they are quite a bit more expensive. Wunderlich has some nice looking head cover but again $$$.
 
I have looked on their web site and they show nothing for the 2014 RT. What kit are people using? Just got some new daytona boots and they will barley fit so I can shift. I am shifting with the sole edge more than the toe area. There is no adjustment in the new shift lefver. I had my last top case painted midnight blue. I will probably have the new one painted when I get it. I don't understand why a $20000 + bike doens't have a color matched topcase as an option. Other manufacturers offer this option. Or come standard with the bike.

Yes you can adjust the gear selector. I rode off from the dealer after the second shift I turned the bike around and asked them adjust it. No way was I going to make the 65 mile trip home. It's an easy adjustment with a couple of wrenches. I wish it went a little more but when you are third it opens up enough for me to like the position. Putting my toe in to shift up to second is more of a placement for me.

Jay
 
I will take a look at it. The dealer told me there wasn't any adjustment. Just talked to the people at Sargnet Seats. They don't have any seats in development yet and don't think they will for awhile. Seems they base demand on hits they get for a product on their web site. Guess I will look at Russel.
 
Shifter is easily adjusted. If one can turn a nut, one can adjust the shifter. Back off two outside threaded end nuts and turn knurl area in middle of the same threaded adjusting rod. Shift lever goes up and down depending if you turn it away or toward you. Then retighten those two threaded-rod end nuts.
 
Shifter is easily adjusted. If one can turn a nut, one can adjust the shifter. Back off two outside threaded end nuts and turn knurl area in middle of the same threaded adjusting rod. Shift lever goes up and down depending if you turn it away or toward you. Then retighten those two threaded-rod end nuts.

I didn't have time last night to check. I replaced the gear selection cable on my Polaris Ranger. Only problem is 4 nutty things. I guess I need to go to You Tube to figure out how to turn those things. They are hexagon in shape. What tool do you use on such objects?:confused:
 
I didn't have time last night to check. I replaced the gear selection cable on my Polaris Ranger. Only problem is 4 nutty things. I guess I need to go to You Tube to figure out how to turn those things. They are hexagon in shape. What tool do you use on such objects?:confused:

The two end nuts are 10mm. The knurled area, in middle of threaded adjustment rod, can be moved with your fingers...rotate it toward or away and see shift lever go up or down accordingly. You don't need to use a tool on knurled area, just fingers.
 

Attachments

  • photo (3).JPG
    photo (3).JPG
    128.6 KB · Views: 199
BMW tech said there was a coating that discouraged adjustments. Did you find that the case? I have lowering pegs coming. I will put them on and adjust as needed. That for the imput.
 
A coating? Made out of what? There is no coating...he must be joking or confused. This is a standard-lock-nut-threaded-adjustment-rod fully functional for adjusting the shift lever. All I can tell you, it is similar to set up used on the '13 and older model RT's, except this is a lot easier to get to. Why in the world, would someone "trained" to work on these bikes think this isn't adjustable, is beyond me. I'm quite sure BMW realized adjustments might be needed and deserved between those with size 7 female shoes and size 13 men's boots. I'd be thinking new tech or at least second opinion from another dealer. After I put the SM lower pegs on from my '13, the shift lever certainly needed lowered. Adjust it for garage sitting level, then put the 10mm wrench in your pocket and go for a ride. You can fine adjust it on the side of the road to get the exact height you desire. Enjoy the more leg room and shift height.
 
Maybe covering themselves until more bikes are sold. He said BMW was hesident to adjust due to the shift assist. Only the messenger. I think it is more because they haven't had any formal training on the bike yet. Replacing the radiator hose was a learning experience. The BMW on line directions were for german bikes which have a slightly different thermostat set up. However he is a good tech and figured it out. New hose and no leaks so far and nothing has fallen off. LOL. I am sure the dealer tells them not to tinker too much in the beginning. However I will mess with it tonight.
 
Maybe covering themselves until more bikes are sold. He said BMW was hesident to adjust due to the shift assist. Only the messenger. I think it is more because they haven't had any formal training on the bike yet. Replacing the radiator hose was a learning experience. The BMW on line directions were for german bikes which have a slightly different thermostat set up. However he is a good tech and figured it out. New hose and no leaks so far and nothing has fallen off. LOL. I am sure the dealer tells them not to tinker too much in the beginning. However I will mess with it tonight.

Ya know Hog, I don't have shift ass't...may be there's a difference? Anyone know?
 
Last edited:
Ya you Hog, I don't have shift ass't...may be there's a difference? Anyone know?

You got it correct, I have shift ass't (love it not sure I want to ride my other bikes now) the adjustment is made as stated.

Good luck with your dealer...

Jay
 
Back
Top