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Shifting issues?

jimvonbaden

Kool Aid Dispenser!
My friend was so frustrated with his 2015 R1200GS that he was ready to sell it. He literally was in pain from his bike shifting so poorly and the pain in his toe from shifting that he bought a Wonderlich adjustable shifter. We adjusted it and he was very happy, transformed the bike.

A few months later he swapped out the stock foot pegs with Fastways, then had surgery on his foot. Forward two months and his foot was fine, but he hated shifting again. I suspected the shifter footpeg relationship had changed so I told him to come by and we would work it out.

The key to a properly adjusted shifter is the proper foot position in relation to the shifter peg. Your upper foot should rest lightly against the lower part of the foot peg in first gear in preparation for the 1-2 shift. Too little pressure and you need to move your foot too much, too much pressure and you are preloading the shifter and it will hang. Properly adjusted the 1-2 shift will be the longest shift and the rest will just snick into gear. It will also vastly improve your downshifting, though first will always clunk!

So, the key to getting it right is the sit on the bike, hands on the bars, facing like you are riding and slip your foot (in your riding boots) under the shifter with the shifter in first gear.

For this guy, the footpeg to shifter is shown here:

Shifter%202%20copy.jpg


This adjustment is totally personalized, and will not be the same for everyone. Also note that he has the Wonderlich shifter. He got this in an effort to reduce the foot pain. It did not work of course because the position was not right out of the box. This is a common issue and complaint. No shifter is going to be right out of the box unless you get lucky. In the end the stock shifter very likely would have been fine.

How do you adjust the shifter? I am going to ignore the multiple adjustment of the Wonderlich because most will not need or want to buy it.

Basically you break both lock nuts loose and turn the central shaft. All the while you try over and over until you get just the right preload (light) on the underside of the shifter.

Shifter%204%20copy.jpg


For most people the shaft has enough adjustability to get the right preload. Some may find they run out of shaft, either too short of a shaft, or too long. If it is too long you can shorten the shaft, iff too short you can order a K1200GT shaft and it is 1/2" or so longer. Alternatively, you can get the Wonderlich, or similar, and have much more adjustability for both vertical adjustability and length for you freaky feet sized guys!

Once you think you have it, start the bike and run through the gears just barely releasing the clutch and pulling it back between shifts. If you like the way it feels, lock down the shift rod and go for a ride. You should shift smoother and easier. You may find you over adjusted it with too much preload, in which case you will find yourself accidentally shifting or finding neutral.

By the way, I understand this helps a lot for those having issue with the shift assist!

Anyhow, I hope this helps.

Jim :brow

PS This works on the Hexhead and Camhead as well!
 
Great review, I have a pair of Alpinstars touring boots that are so stiff had to raise the shifter to get my toe under the shifter.
Your guide should help others get they bike set up.
 
On camhead RTs (wetheads?) the peg is on an eccentric, and simply rotating it helped me a bunch.
 
Many Thanks for the Tip

Thanks a million for the tips on adjusting the shift lever. Since I bought my 2013 R1200GSW (new) I've complained about the klunky shifting. Everything else with my bike is great, as can be attested by the almost 30k miles I've logged. Not even my certified Beemer mechanic had any suggestions about a remedy for my shifting problem. And of course I forgot all about the adjustment for the shift lever. Well, I made the adjustment and, "wow," what a difference that little adjustment made--so much smoother and easier going into 1st gear, as well as neutral. Thanks again!:wave:dance
 
Your upper foot should rest lightly against the lower part of the foot peg in first gear in preparation for the 1-2 shift. Too little pressure and you need to move your foot too much, too much pressure and you are preloading the shifter and it will hang.

Jim,

You're more experienced in dealing with bike machinery than I am, but I've ridden and adjusted a buncha bikes since 1972, and I'm going to disagree with your recipe.

Your setup puts the natural resting left foot under the shift tab. This is fine for upshifts, but makes downshifts - at least for me - much harder because the rider has to move his foot up quite a ways to get it over the shift tab.

I think a more natural location for the shift lever tab (what you call the "lower part of the foot peg") can be found by having the rider mounted on the bike, the rider's instep on the foot peg, and the toes pointed out just enough to clear the shift tab. With the foot held in this neutral (neither held up nor down) and relaxed position, adjust the shift lever so the tab points directly at the side of the foot, mid-way between the boot sole bottom and the top surface of the toe box.

With this setting, the foot movement required to shift is the same whether upshifting or downshifting. I find it much easier to move my foot as little as possible, and to move it the same amount whether shifting up or down.

This may well be a YMMV situation, both from differently-working ankle joints and just plain personal preference. Or maybe there's something different about Wetheads. I can't say that everyone would prefer this setup. But I've found over the years that I'm much more comfortable, and my shifting smoother and easier, with a foot-centered shift tab.
 
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Now I'm gonna have to try both methods out today, all I know is I have to try and reduce the clunking as it reminds me of a Harley I use to own!:scratch
 
Jim,

You're more experienced in dealing with bike machinery than I am, but I've ridden and adjusted a buncha bikes since 1972, and I'm going to disagree with your recipe.

Your setup puts the natural resting left foot under the shift tab. This is fine for upshifts, but makes downshifts - at least for me - much harder because the rider has to move his foot up quite a ways to get it over the shift tab.

I think a more natural location for the shift lever tab (what you call the "lower part of the foot peg") can be found by having the rider mounted on the bike, the rider's instep on the foot peg, and the toes pointed out just enough to clear the shift tab. With the foot held in this neutral (neither held up nor down) and relaxed position, adjust the shift lever so the tab points directly at the side of the foot, mid-way between the boot sole bottom and the top surface of the toe box.

With this setting, the foot movement required to shift is the same whether upshifting or downshifting. I find it much easier to move my foot as little as possible, and to move it the same amount whether shifting up or down.

This may well be a YMMV situation, both from differently-working ankle joints and just plain personal preference. Or maybe there's something different about Wetheads. I can't say that everyone would prefer this setup. But I've found over the years that I'm much more comfortable, and my shifting smoother and easier, with a foot-centered shift tab.

David,

I understand what you are saying, but in the case of this bike upshifts are missed or crunchy often. Downshifts are rarely an issue. I much prefer not to miss upshifts than downshifts, but for those who have done it with my method downshifts have not been an issue. Try it and see.

Jim :brow
 
That's a reasonable suggestion.
The R shift lever's easy to move. I'll do it and ride for a few days, and report back.
 
got better

2014 gsa. Was experiencing rough and clunky upshifts at first. By adjusting the shifter to the higher spot made a huge difference for me. All is good now. Downshifts were never an issue.
Rob.
 
GSW shifting issues

Now I'm gonna have to try both methods out today, all I know is I have to try and reduce the clunking as it reminds me of a Harley I use to own!:scratch

If shifter adjustment options have been exhausted..and you truly have a hard shifting clunk--its internal. Try changing motor oil-different brand and or viscosity.
Think outside the box....good luck.
 
That's a reasonable suggestion.
The R shift lever's easy to move. I'll do it and ride for a few days, and report back.

I find it sometimes easier to upshift with the higher tab position, but mostly I find it harder to downshift. All in all, the improvement in uphifting is overbalanced by the degradation in downshifting.

A mixed result for me; I expect I will rotate the shift lever back down.
 
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