rocker arm alignment jig

[brant914]

I recently read an article on Push rod seals.
and I need to pull my heads anyways to check the P's/C's and likely re-ring
but the article mentioned a jig tool to align the rockers on early bikes

mine is a 1971 r75/5

is it one of the years that needs a jig for alignment
and who do people recommend to sell this tool

I found a few bmw shops out there selling excellent tools that are perhaps as good or better than factory at realistic prices
is there someone selling these jigs like that?

someone related..... I pulled my forks and the bearings are crap... dry and crusty. I need to find an tech article for that job... believe it requires a tool also.. possibly I can buy both of these tools at once.

thanks in advance
brant

 

[beemerphile]

I've never used a tool for the early rockers Brant. I just squeeze them together a bit to take up the slack while tightening the nuts. Then check that there is no binding and no excessive clearance. The later design eliminates the need for this.

 

[20774]

The tool is discussed here by Duane Ausherman:

w6rec.com/bmw-motorcycle-valve-adjustment-procedure/

It's essentially worthless. Read what he has to say.

As for steering stem bearings, here's a couple of places to read over:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/frontforks.htm
www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/airheads/fork_overhaul.shtml

 

[brant914]

Thank you Lee and Kurt.
Great info!


Also Kurt thank you for all of your info!
The links in your sig are great and took a lot of time to compile!

 

[grahamm]

also same here, squeeze them together taking up the slop but not too tight.

The rocker arm should not align in the center of the valve. Off center will rotate the valve to prevent valve hot spots.

 

[ebeeby]

Lots of info on this on the internet. Jig is not needed. One tip: pay attention to the push-rods being centered in the opening. Also, it helps to have a third arm and hand. Welcome to the joys of Airhead ownership!

 

[lmo1131]

I pulled my forks and the bearings are crap... dry and crusty. I need to find an tech article for that job... believe it requires a tool also.. possibly I can buy both of these tools at once.

I'll also reiterate... you don't need the pushrod jig.

And in my experience, the only tool you need to replace the stem bearings is a small cold chisel, patience, and care not to hit what shouldn't be hit. Getting the races out of the stem can be a bit dicey, but a long drift punch and patience is all that's needed.

But if you want to spend $50, here it is.
http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=63

But if you want to spend another $50 on the race/cup tool go to > http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=62

 

[1074]

Rocker arms

also same here, squeeze them together taking up the slop but not too tigh.

The early /5 rocker arms have mounting blocks that are somewhat of a press fit with a wave washer in place to supposedly ease end play problems. I recommending taking them apart to check for wear on the bronze bushings that are used . In extreme cases the steel shafts themselves may be gouged enough to render them useless. The shafts are NLA. Although you can rotate the shafts 180 degrees to get a bit more life out of them. I consider that to be a a patch fix. You can replace them with later models that have needle bearings that are replaceable.

 

[beemerphile]

The early /5 rocker arms...

I'm guilty of poor reading comprehension. I didn't catch that the bike was a /5 and I don't have any experience with the bushed rockers. I should have exercised my right to remain silent. Of course, I am about to learn it as I just bought my first /5.

 

[anotherbmw]

I'll also reiterate... you don't need the pushrod jig.

And in my experience, the only tool you need to replace the stem bearings is a small cold chisel, patience, and care not to hit what shouldn't be hit. Getting the races out of the stem can be a bit dicey, but a long drift punch and patience is all that's needed.

But if you want to spend $50, here it is.
http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=63

But if you want to spend another $50 on the race/cup tool go to > http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=62

I had bought both the exact same tools when I did my steering bearings, I must say it was "fun" getting the races out, high quality tools!

 

[6322]

I had bought both the exact same tools when I did my steering bearings, I must say it was "fun" getting the races out, high quality tools!

I use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut a notch in opposite sides of the bearing, taking out as much material as I can without cutting the steering head. Then with the cold chisel in the grooves, I break the bearing. The races come out with along punch, the bottom from the top and the top from the bottom.