R1100RS- Is the alt. lower pulley two pieces, or only one?

[greenmachine1100]

Good morning,
On the Max BMW site, looking at new parts (my timing problem is in two other threads, so won't repeat)

https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51676&rnd=07242017

It shows the lower alternator pulley as two parts? 04 Rotor, and 05 Pulley?

In the setting the timing thread, I found this from Roger 04 rt:

"As the slotted window still glued to the pulley?" sic, [Is]

Which I took to mean that the inner timing window ring should be 'stuck' to the outer belt pulley. Didn't take 'glue' seriously?
My second clue was in the Chris Harris video on alt. belt replacement. Upon removing the lower pulley, he said roughly paraphrasing, "these pulleys have a tack weld that is known to fail", and he was showing and handling the lower pulley as one part. Inner rotor was 'stuck' to outer pulley. In the Illinois BMW video on topic of replacing and adjusting HES plate he briefly shows his removed lower pulley and it is one part = inner rotor is 'stuck' to outer pulley.

Can anyone tell me why these two sources contradict each other? Is it a two piece part? How is it stuck together?
Because I went forward and welded them together:
Haha!

I thought it was the source of my ignition problems. Obviously, the inner rotor, with the key hole/tab is the important piece for alignment and timing. Didn't think the outer pulley orientation mattered, but they shouldn't move independently.

 

[PGlaves]

Early pulleys were spot welded and welds broke. Later pulleys fit the belt differently and came in two parts along with a small tube of Loctite Black Max which was a rubberized super glue. The inner portion with the window must be properly engaged with the crankshaft. Once properly installed with the retaining cap screw tightened to specification nothing should slip.

 

[greenmachine1100]

Found the Loctite/threadlocker reference in the service manual about an hour ago. Doesn't say anything about how much, or where. Could have save myself a bit of trouble if I knew that. Thought about some type of epoxy, but thought balance may have been compromised if I didn't put it on evenly.

The washer on front holding down pulley is a monster, and 50 N-m is the torque, so it shouldn't go anywhere. Mine being welded shouldn't cause any problems, until new arrives. (I'm on the road and trying to get it running well enough to get home). But also, now thinking that was not my original problem. Hopefully, new Hall sensor unit will cure everything. Plan is to remove my repaired pulley wheel again, set timing on sensor carefully, and try again.

Thank you for reference to product- Loctite Black Max. Will find!

 

[gsaddict]

Early ones were welded

Later they were two piece with no adhesive (if correctly torqued using the crank lock pin) and worked well. My own has this method and never an issue in 225,000 miles. Neither have any bikes I have serviced.

Later BMW glued the assemblies together. That works fine.

There is not need IMO to have glued or welded. If the torque is incorrect the assemble will slip on the crank and tear the timing tab no matter what.

Note: Don't try to torque by putting in gear and standing on the brake. The correct torque setting is unreliable.
The correct way is to lock the crank.

 

[gsaddict]

Lock pin

 

[PGlaves]

Lock pin

My lock pin has red paint instead of blue tape. Dayglo orange would be even better.

 

[gsaddict]

My lock pin has red paint instead of blue tape. Dayglo orange would be even better.

That is one I made for someone years ago.

My own has an Orange lanyard that goes around the throttle grip.
"Remove before flight"

 

[greenmachine1100]

Got the lock pin. Mine is a bent U-bolt. Angle and fit are perfect, completely by accident. ha,ha!

 

[burnbender]

I didn't bother to put tape or paint on mine, I just made both ends the same length.

 

[gsaddict]

The marking is so one does not forget to remove it.
Likely to knock off a tooth or two off the ring gear if forgotten.