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R1100R won't start after stall

Take a good spark plug, insert it into the plug boot and ground the plug to the motor. You can hold it on the cylinder fins, but I would wear a heavy glove. Press the starter and watch for a spark at the gap - should be bluish color.

Have you done this on an R1100? Clymer says it will damage the ignition system.
 
Have you done this on an R1100? Clymer says it will damage the ignition system.

As long as the threads of the plug remain grounded on the engine fins, it's not a problem. The spark is just trying to find its way to ground, whether it's screwed into the plug hole or the threads are grounded on the engine. Clymer was probably worried or cautioning about breaking contact with the engine...and yes, that could damage the ignition system.
 
As long as the threads of the plug remain grounded on the engine fins, it's not a problem. The spark is just trying to find its way to ground, whether it's screwed into the plug hole or the threads are grounded on the engine. Clymer was probably worried or cautioning about breaking contact with the engine...and yes, that could damage the ignition system.

If I do this it is with a jumper wire firmly clipped to the spark plug threads and a known good ground like a frame bolt.
 
Have you done this on an R1100? Clymer says it will damage the ignition system.

As long as the plug is grounded to the motor there is no problem. Damage occurs if there is no path to ground so that the discharge goes back to the coil. Yes, I have an R1100RT. This damage problem goes back to the early days of the 247 Airheads when people were removing the spark plug wire on one side to perform a carb sync. Ignition system got damaged.
 
If I do this it is with a jumper wire firmly clipped to the spark plug threads and a known good ground like a frame bolt.

Thanks to you and the # guy. I really appreciate your comments. I think at this point I'm moving on. I live in a historic town, St. Michaels, MD, and have no garage (Historic Committee won't approve). It sounds very likely, after doing some research, that the HES may be the culprit. I'm not able to do such work so I'll either ship to Bob's BMW in Jessup, MD or possibly try a very helpful local mechanic nearby.

Thanks again for your help
 
Thanks to you and the # guy. I really appreciate your comments. I think at this point I'm moving on. I live in a historic town, St. Michaels, MD, and have no garage (Historic Committee won't approve). It sounds very likely, after doing some research, that the HES may be the culprit. I'm not able to do such work so I'll either ship to Bob's BMW in Jessup, MD or possibly try a very helpful local mechanic nearby.

Thanks again for your help

Hold the phone there, buddy! HES repairs can be done for a very reasonable price by Forum member GSAddict. Removal and replacement of the HES is one of the simpler things to do. Seriously.

PS No garage allowed? Time to move! :D
 
If I do this it is with a jumper wire firmly clipped to the spark plug threads and a known good ground like a frame bolt.

I use one of these-

6589-front.jpg


Actually I have a pair of the testers. One was supposed to he HEI and one for the older ignition systems. Never forum it mattered- spark wise.

This is handy as well-

63590_I.jpg



OM
 
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