R100RT shifting problems

[lbrackr756]

I have a 1980 R100RT with only 20k miles on it. Just bought it a month ago and have noticed a little problem when shifting. About 1 in 10 times when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear the bike ends up in a "false neutral" between 2nd and 3rd gears, i.e. it goes all the way through 2nd but doesn't get to 3rd. A second problem is, when downshifting from 5th to 4th the bike ends up in a "false neutral" between 4th and 5th. Downshifting again results in a real Karrunch! into 4th so it's best to upshift again to 5th then try again doing the downshift. This second problem happens with a little more frequency than the first one. The trans is otherwise fine, no noise and correct shifting in all other ranges. Now, I'm thinking, this bike has the (I believe) adjustable shift linkage. Could this problem be a result of this linkage being out of adjustment? Any thoughts out there would be helpful.

Little Egypt Airhead
1976 R75/6
1980 R100RT

 

[beemerguru]

First check the clutch freeplay and set to specs. Also change to Mobil 1 or Redline synthetic for the fluid. If that doesn't help, then it may be time to pull the tranny and see if the clutch splines are dry as a bone. That GREATLY hinders smooth shifting.

If the splines are greased, then the tranny may have to come apart to see if there is a C clip or not, loose bearings, worn dog legs, or just needs reshimming.

Is your shifting technique appropriate for a BMW. Not like Honda where it clicks into gear...on a beemer, you preload the shift with pressure from your boot before you pull in the clutch lever so the shift is kinda started before you shift. Then after the gear change,,a smoooth release. This is for both up and down..


Just a thought.

 

[sumran]

I have the same bike with similar problems, however, mine is due for a rebuild with almost 90K on the original tranny. Some bikes did come with the adjustable linkage, mine has the fixed rod. Hard to tell until you remove the rubber boot. The only adjustment on mine is bending or straighting the rod.

The needle bearing that the shifter rides on can go bad. I have a replacement for mine, but have not installed it yet. I'll let you know if it does any good. The preloading Greg mentioned has helped a lot. On mine it is important for me to preload but keep a lighter foot once the clutch is pulled in. Otherwise I overshift second. I have also experimented with various RPM's to determine the most effective shift points.

 

[26667]

they don't like to be shifted at low rpms. shifts are really happier above 4000. w above mentioned 'pre-load.' a slight pull up w the toe before you really move it into gear. there's a just a hair of freeplay in the shifter.

 

[lbrackr756]

If the splines are greased, then the tranny may have to come apart to see if there is a C clip or not, loose bearings, worn dog legs, or just needs reshimming.

Is your shifting technique appropriate for a BMW. Not like Honda where it clicks into gear...on a beemer, you preload the shift with pressure from your boot before you pull in the clutch lever so the shift is kinda started before you shift. Then after the gear change,,a smoooth release. This is for both up and down..


Just a thought.[/QUOTE]

Don't know about the splines yet; it's on my list of winter projects. Shifting is smooth for the most part, just this little tricky problem.
Thanks for the thoughts on shifting technique but I've got over 50k miles under my belt, mostly on my R75/6 and previously on an R60/6. I can make that little bugger shift without so much as a click. I can tell on the upshift from 1st when that problem will occur. Downshifting from 5th it feels as if the dogs just don't find their holes....

 

[lbrackr756]

I have the same bike with similar problems, however, mine is due for a rebuild with almost 90K on the original tranny. Some bikes did come with the adjustable linkage, mine has the fixed rod. Hard to tell until you remove the rubber boot. The only adjustment on mine is bending or straighting the rod.

The needle bearing that the shifter rides on can go bad. I have a replacement for mine, but have not installed it yet. I'll let you know if it does any good. The preloading Greg mentioned has helped a lot. On mine it is important for me to preload but keep a lighter foot once the clutch is pulled in. Otherwise I overshift second. I have also experimented with various RPM's to determine the most effective shift points.

Yeah, my shfter needle bearing is QUITE loose. Don't know why with only 20k on the clock. I also have the "heel / toe" shifter and don't like it. I'm going to switch to the single pedal design and replace the needle bearing at the same time to see if that helps. Thanks!

 

[sumran]

Yeah, my shfter needle bearing is QUITE loose. Don't know why with only 20k on the clock. I also have the "heel / toe" shifter and don't like it. I'm going to switch to the single pedal design and replace the needle bearing at the same time to see if that helps. Thanks!

I have heard of problems when the needle bearing is a little loose. If yours is that loose I expect that will solve your problem. That is why they went to the adjustable linkage, because that spacing was touchy(so I am told). You may want to give that shifter another chance after the bearing is changed. It took a little getting used to, but I love mine now.

I did alter it some. I drilled a 1/4" hole through the center of the rear shift pedal. Then I cut two discs out of an old trailer tire with a 1-1/2" hole saw. I put a fender washer between the rubber discs and attached it with a stainless bolt and a finishing washer. It gave me a solid, non-slip pad to catch with my heel. It works well for me. If your interested I can attach a picture. I still have the hole saw and old tire, so I would be glad to make one up for you and mail it to you. Just email me your mailing address if interested. Best of luck.

 

[bullshit]

I'm new to BMW's--have only ridden my new '81 R100RT about 400 miles. I "missed" a few gears and blamed the problem on myself. The solution was a combination of having my rpms up (4000 plus seems to do it) and having a firmer foot (maybe I began "preloading" and didn't know it.) Anyways, problem solved for me.

 

[donbmw]

This kind of shifting problems is with any motorcycle. And age of the bike doesnot mater. I have seen brand new Honda's do this.

Don