I have a number of auxiliary items I would like to install on my ’04 R1150RT. I have, in no particular order:
After much research, I think I finally figured out how to wire all this stuff up. My main objectives are:
Here’s the simple wiring diagram I drew up to help me figure out all the connections.
The box at the top with the list of all the devices being wired up represents a common ground bar. It doesn’t show on the diagram but this will actually be connected to the battery.
The box at the bottom represents the switches and LED voltage indicator from the Clearwater Voltage Sentry. The switches are coloured as I have small rocker switches with LEDs for the PDM60, Cree LEDs & Schroedie side markers.
You may notice that the high & low beam lights are not grounded. That is because the wires I’m showing actually only tap into the positive feed for each. In the case of the high beam, The Screaming Banshee taps into this to flash it when you hold the stock horn button. In the case of the low beam, I am tapping into to it to (i) use as the Ignition Trigger for the PDM60, and (ii) provide the power for the switches that will control the PDM60 relay and the Cree LEDs.
Here is a chart that summarizes the circuits for the PDM60.
I’m still not convinced this will work. I know that the Cree LED’S are provided with a 5A fuse, the brake light LED a 4A fuse, the Screaming Banshee a 30A fuse and the Voltage Sentry a 5A fuse. I’m guessing that together the USB outlets will draw less than 7A as I believe they are 3.1A each. I think the GPS will draw less than 2A based on my research. Finally, the Schroedie side markers I’m guessing at their draw as well as the installation instructions direct you to wire the turn indicator wired directly to your existing turn indicator and the marker light to a feed that’s always on when the bike is on like a low beam or parking light. The kit doesn’t even provide a fused feed for these lights. Consequently, I’m guessing at 1A. The net result of which is I believe I’m potentially drawing the full 54A, close to the maximum that the controller can handle.
Can I actually power my relay for the PDM60 and the LED switch from a tap into the low beam power?
So, for those electrical geniuses among you who would know … do you see anything glaring that I’m missing?
- Clearwater Voltage Sentry
- Schroedie two colour side indicator lights
- BikeVis Cree LED Running Lights
- Stebel Air Horn
- Screaming Banshee Air Horn Controller
- GPS
- Dual Port USB Charger
- LED Auxiliary Tail Light
After much research, I think I finally figured out how to wire all this stuff up. My main objectives are:
- Trigger the air horn using the stock horn button without losing the functionality of the stock horns.
- That is, I wanted to be able to ‘beep’ the stock horns in a friendly manner or blast the air horn if someone around me was in the process of doing something stupid. Originally I had figured out a way to do this using time delay relays; but, then I stumbled upon the Screaming Banshee. This accomplishes my goal with the added bonus of flashing the high beam while blasting the horn.
- Easily switch the Schroedie side indicator lights off if I’m ever in a jurisdiction where having blue side markers is illegal.
- Turn the Cree LED auxiliary lights on and off as desired.
- Use the PDM60 to control all the circuits.
- Switch the PDM60 off completely when the bike is off.
- As recommended in the PDM60 installation instructions, I would like to have the circuits for the air horn Ground Triggered. This works well with the stock horn switch as it switches to ground. The challenge is that I also want to employ the Screaming Banshee to not only sound the air horn but also flash the high beam but this device requires a 30A feed. No problem, I can combine circuits 4 & 5 to feed the Screaming Banshee while configuring both of these circuits to both be 15A maximum current as well as Ignition Triggered and Ground Triggered. The problem now is that Rowe advises that with Ground Triggered circuits you should actually switch the PDM60 Control Unit to avoid potential battery drain. I felt the best way to do this is with a 12V 60A SPST relay. Now I can use a small switch to control the relay to fully power off the PDM60.
Here’s the simple wiring diagram I drew up to help me figure out all the connections.
The box at the top with the list of all the devices being wired up represents a common ground bar. It doesn’t show on the diagram but this will actually be connected to the battery.
The box at the bottom represents the switches and LED voltage indicator from the Clearwater Voltage Sentry. The switches are coloured as I have small rocker switches with LEDs for the PDM60, Cree LEDs & Schroedie side markers.
You may notice that the high & low beam lights are not grounded. That is because the wires I’m showing actually only tap into the positive feed for each. In the case of the high beam, The Screaming Banshee taps into this to flash it when you hold the stock horn button. In the case of the low beam, I am tapping into to it to (i) use as the Ignition Trigger for the PDM60, and (ii) provide the power for the switches that will control the PDM60 relay and the Cree LEDs.
Here is a chart that summarizes the circuits for the PDM60.
| Circuit | Current Limit | Device(s) | Switching Mode | Trigger |
| 1 | 10 | Cree LEDs, Brake Lights, Side Markers | IT | Cree LEDs - Blue Rocker Switch Brake Light - Brake Side Markers - Yellow Rocker |
| 2 | 7 | USB Outlets(2) | IT | Always On |
| 3 | 5 | Volt Meter | IT | Always On |
| 4 | 15 | Screaming Banshee | IT & GT | Stock Horn Button |
| 5 | 15 | Screaming Banshee | IT & GT | Stock Horn Button |
| 6 | 2 | GPS | IT | Always On |
I’m still not convinced this will work. I know that the Cree LED’S are provided with a 5A fuse, the brake light LED a 4A fuse, the Screaming Banshee a 30A fuse and the Voltage Sentry a 5A fuse. I’m guessing that together the USB outlets will draw less than 7A as I believe they are 3.1A each. I think the GPS will draw less than 2A based on my research. Finally, the Schroedie side markers I’m guessing at their draw as well as the installation instructions direct you to wire the turn indicator wired directly to your existing turn indicator and the marker light to a feed that’s always on when the bike is on like a low beam or parking light. The kit doesn’t even provide a fused feed for these lights. Consequently, I’m guessing at 1A. The net result of which is I believe I’m potentially drawing the full 54A, close to the maximum that the controller can handle.
Can I actually power my relay for the PDM60 and the LED switch from a tap into the low beam power?
So, for those electrical geniuses among you who would know … do you see anything glaring that I’m missing?
