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Paralever Pivot Torqing Question

rkildu

New member
This is a follow up an a previous post about my High Mileage R1150RT with 85K current miles on it. I currently have it torn down doing a Clutch Spline lube and inspection. Things are much better than I expected. The clutch splines were almost dry. Spline on both clutch friction plate and transmission show almost no wear, rear drive has a slight seep under the boot, which I understand is not a big problem, the drive shaft has a notchy spot on the front u-joint. All in all not bad. I found a good lower mileage used shaft.

I have reinstalled the clutch and transmission and am awaiting parts to finish. Had to cut off the very rusted muffler clamp, I'm replacing the clutch slave cylinder and need a new swing arm boot and paralever bearings.

I have heard over the grapevine that BMW no longer recommends using Thread Lock Compound on the Paralever, and I guess the Swingarm, Pivot Pins. Instead just torque to spec.

Can anyone confirm this information???

Thanks
Rod
 
I will be paying close att to this posting as i will be doing this proceedure as well, i have the bushings on order from rubberchicken. it seems to be an upgrade from the standard oem needel bearings. iam am getting mixed messages as to use the loctite as well, rubberchicken recomends it as well as the moly paste on the bushings. with 110lbs of tork on the lock nut, about 10lbs on the pin bolt. strickly by feel for me weather it will be 10lbs or 5 on pin bolt. the max tecs say no locktite,,,,,i think ill be useing it.( i should have specified paralever bearings. )
 
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I am in the same situation. Spline lube in process. Except I am replacing failed rear drive bushings with the stock bearings. I have no idea what BMW's current recommendation is concerning loctite. Personally I will not be using any on reassemble. The manual calls for 160Nm's, that's 118lbf. I find it difficult to believe the stud and locknut will loosen under that amount of torque.
 
Whether you conclude you wish to use thread locker or not I would suggest that after you have tightened the locknut you mark the locknut, the pivot pin, and the swingarm with a spot of paint so you can visually check the joint for any change of position. I've been doing this for at leat 20 years.
 
my 2

Some (me) have used the loctite setting the preload and let it set up for 20 mins or so then torque the locknut.
Been looking for a cheap socket to modify, HF had a 32mm for 5 bucks, no 30 though.
 
Some (me) have used the loctite setting the preload and let it set up for 20 mins or so then torque the locknut.

I usually torque the pivot bolt with blue ( not red ) loctite and wait 24 hours before torquing the lock nut. I usually use blue loctite on the nut also. It isn't a big deal to heat it up each time you take it apart. However, I think red loctite is overkill.
 
Referring strictly to the bushing kit--have you read the instructions that come with the paralever bushing kit? Those instructions are publicly available on the RubberChickenRacing website, I'd suggest you peruse those carefully before making any decisions WRT loctite. The specific loctite formulation that is called for in the bushing installation is not one that is available from your FLAPS--it's cure characteristics are different than the typical "blue' or "red' that might be found languishing in your toolbox, and the specific formulation called for was in response to problems with early installs of the bushings where more generic loctite compounds were used. As for the locknuts, make your own decision on loctite but Paul's idea of paint-marking is very good.

Best,
 
...the drive shaft has a notchy spot on the front u-joint.

Rod, did you replace the driveshaft? Mine had a very slight "on-center" feel in the upper joint so I replaced it and am planning on having the take-off rebuilt as a spare. I couldn't see putting it back in with an observable issue.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Although no one has actually answered the original question weather BMW has changed their specifications and dropped the thread locker requirement.

beemerphile - Yes I bought a shaft from Beemer Boneyard from a bike with half the mileage, it feels good to me but I will have it checked out before installing. Where will you send your old shaft for rebuild?

As a couple have suggested, I usually use thread locker on the adjustable pivot before torqueing the lock nut, and I have used slippage marks as well. (It's a long used aviation check.) I looked into getting a 30mm Crows Foot Socket to torque the lock nut and also buying a socket and modifying it, but a drop or two of blue Loctite is much cheaper! I sort of agree about not needing thread locker with the large torque settings so I thought to only use it on the adjustable pivot pin. I have noticed that heating the pivots to remove them cooks the grease in the bearings and I don't like that.

Thanks
Rod
 
I recently replaced my pivot bearings with OEM's due to a couple missing needles (used bike). I have read good and bad about the bushing kits so I went with stock. The Beemer Shop no longer sells the bushings due to too many failures, that is a decision you have to make. I bought a special socket from EBAY for the torque procedure and I didnt use Loctite as per the Chris Harris video. I did mark the lock nut and it has not moved.

Contact this seller to see if the proper tool is still available.http://www.ebay.com/itm/360352464286?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D360352464286%26_rdc%3D1#payId

Chris Harris video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI
 
Some (me) have used the loctite setting the preload and let it set up for 20 mins or so then torque the locknut.
Been looking for a cheap socket to modify, HF had a 32mm for 5 bucks, no 30 though.
I have a few of the 30mm custom made cutout sockets left over from a group buy. They are impact sockets, CNC milled, deburred & nickel plated. Our cost was 35$ plus shipping.
 

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Just sent you a PM Saddleman, I'd be interested in grabbing a spare kit. -Greg O Sent you my phone number
 
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