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Output shaft on 1150 transmissions?

Hi Cal. Welcome to the Forum and good to see you are making good use of your MOA membership!

Don't use Staburags grease on the splines. Use this stuff instead. https://www.beemerboneyard.com/gdmoly2oz.html It's a bit pricey but it works really well. Paul Glaves knows the owner and can explain why it's properties are ideal for this purpose better than I. The company making it is no longer in business so getting some while it lasts = good idea!

This product was developed for this purpose and contains the right proportions of moly and lubricant to provide long lasting protection from fretting. Cleaning the splines and the clutch hub thoroughly is key here as well. Once both are spotless use a short bristly acid brush or toothbrush to carefully coat the transmission input splines. Do not put any on the clutch hub as it will get pushed through the other (clutch) side when you put the gearbox back in and this will foul your clutch when that stuff gets flung all over from centrifugal force.

This is definitely a case where a thin film of evenly spread lubricant goes a long way.
 
spline service-R1100RT

There are spline issues and then there are spline issues. Input shaft/clutch hub assemblies have required periodic lubrication forever it seems. At one point in the early 1980s BMW specified it as annual maintenance.

Comparing the R1100 and R1150 (and R1100S only) transmissions there is an issue with skimpy spline engagement on the latter - making the problem more severe. But the R1100 bikes indeed require spline lubrication on a periodic basis too. I say every 40,000 miles - others have slightly different opinions.

Guess i'm neglectful/lazy/lucky, splines last serviced at 85K when clutch replaced (at Valentin motors, Greenlake Wa. -great shop. then anyway). Now have 140K and am planning to do that (along with tb rebuild and more). Guard dog moly NLA, any suggestions on grease? Also any info out there on the effectiveness on going with R1200 injectors and GS intake tubes?
 
I was in your boat (not one of the 4), had to remove the transmission, no experience. Strongly suggest you find the Chris Harris video on YouTube as it will save you a ton of work vs the Clymer. e.g. Clymer instructs removing the IBS module to lift the rear frame - not necessary per Harris and my experience. If you do, Clymer has you taking the bike to a dealer to recharge it properly. Harris video is 2 hrs plus - best net time I ever spent. Good cussing too, took me back to my days in the 7th fleet.
 
I forget exactly, but is something like 12 shop hours just to disassemble and reassemble, not including any other work or parts.

Just to clarify, the 12 hours should have covered both the transmission R&R and the transmission and clutch repair, it's about 50/50. Then you have parts, and repairs that are not directly related to the clutch or transmission.
 
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