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Need suggestions on 1150 w/ no CCP chip, remus, and y pipe

jeff.ferguson

New member
I just got my hands on a sweet 2004 GSA with 41,000 miles. The only issue is the bike seems to run pretty rough (rich) and is WAY too loud for my tastes. I have not done the valves/TBs yet as I just picked it up last week and it is 12 degrees here in Omaha, so that ain't happening soon. However, I am thinking part of the problem is that the previous owner removed the cat conv and installed a y pipe. It also has a Remus Revolution exhaust with no baffle. Finally, I just looked and the CCP chip has been removed.

I'll be the first to admit I am no mechanical genius, but isn't this configuration sort of a recipe for poor performance?

My preference would be to return the bike to a completely stock setup, but I do not have a ccp chip or the stock exhaust. So my first thought is to try and resolve the issue by removing the y pipe and put the cat conv back on to see if this helps (provide some back pressure and reduce popping on deceleration).

So I have a couple questions:

Is putting the cat conv back on a logical step?
What else might I do to improve the performance?
Do I need to get a new ccp chip? (Internet research is inconclusive on this)

I'd greatly appreciate any and all feedback on this - thanks!
 
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Plenty of folks might disagree but if that were my bike it would get a stock exhaust pronto, and then would re-tune the bike for that exhaust. The goofs that actually think they can out engineer BMW are often self deluded. In very limited circumstances folks can tune these bikes but most folks just screw things up. Go back to stock, then consider an ACifieds (spelling?) to richen things a bit and you will have a good performer without the racket.

EDIT: AF-Xied seems to be the correct spelling.
 
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I'll come back with some additional comments but I'm pretty much in agreement with Paul. Two questiions first: is there an O2 sensor installed in the Y-pipe and connected? Does your bike have the second load relay installed to the left of the coding plug socket?

Btw, no CCP may be correct for your bike. You need to borrow a gs-911 to know for certain. A gs-911 would also let you look for ECU fault codes.

Do you know how old the stick coils are?
 
I just got my hands on a sweet 2004 GSA with 41,000 miles. The only issue is the bike seems to run pretty rough (rich) and is WAY too loud for my tastes. I have not done the valves/TBs yet as I just picked it up last week and it is 12 degrees here in Omaha, so that ain't happening soon. However, I am thinking part of the problem is that the previous owner removed the cat conv and installed a y pipe. It also has a Remus Revolution exhaust with no baffle. Finally, I just looked and the CCP chip has been removed.

I'll be the first to admit I am no mechanical genius, but isn't this configuration sort of a recipe for poor performance?

My preference would be to return the bike to a completely stock setup, but I do not have a ccp chip or the stock exhaust. So my first thought is to try and resolve the issue by removing the y pipe and put the cat conv back on to see if this helps (provide some back pressure and reduce popping on deceleration).

So I have a couple questions:

Is putting the cat conv back on a logical step?
What else might I do to improve the performance?
Do I need to get a new ccp chip? (Internet research is inconclusive on this)

I'd greatly appreciate any and all feedback on this - thanks!

Jeff,

After thinking about this for a while, before you go out and buy parts to bring the bike back to stock, there are some things you can do. I asked some questions in my earlier post and it'd be helpful to know the answers. Usually though, the best way to get an Oilhead running well is to take a systematic approach to tuning and debugging.

Tell us more about the rough running, is it during idle, cruise, acceleration or at high speed? Is it in all gears? You mention that you believe it is running rich, why do you believe that?

If the noise level is too loud with the Y-pipe and remus, could you add a baffle and bring the noise to an acceptable level?

EDIT: This should give you a pretty accurate idea of how to think about your coding plug issue: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...-R1150-Decoded&p=994823&viewfull=1#post994823. If your Motronic reads out the same info as my dual-plug 2004 R1150, then NO Coding Plug would be appropriate.
 
Spelling?

PGlaves;.......consider an ACifieds (spelling?) to richen things a bit and you will have a good performer without the racket.[/QUOTE said:
Hey, Jeff,

I think what Paul is referring to is an "AF-Xied" by Nightrider. The EPA requirements make these engines run very lean, at the very edge. The AF-Xied allows you to adjust YOUR engine setup to run much smoother and cooler by fooling the ECU and adjusting the lambda. Read more about it here, plus it's mentioned is several forums: http://sales.nightrider.com/BMW_c_137.html

I installed one (plug and play install) along with a pair of MATCHED fuel injectors (EV14, 4 hole) from Injector Rehab (http://injector-rehab.com/shop/). Between both of these, my bike is soooo much easier to ride.

Regards,

Lowndes
 
I have an 02 that I out a y-pipe on with stock muffler. It has the o2 sensor on the y-pipe. It runs excellent!
Other than that the motor etc. are stock. Check to see that your throttle cables are both in the groove where they attach to the throttle bodies. If they slip out of the groove the bike will barely run and may exhibit rich tendencies.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. Too many variables at this point to pinpoint the issue, so I agree with taking a systematic approach. I think the first thing I'll do is reinstall the cat converter and then take it out for a ride. If nothing else, that should help quiet it down and maybe help with some of the backfiring. While I have the y pipe and headers off, I will put high temp sealant at the connecting points to ensure a tight seal. The next step will be to do a TBS and valve adjustment (if necessary). I don't want to go buy a stock muffler, so that will be sort of a last resort if I can't smooth it out and quiet it down.

Someone asked about the O2 censor - yes, it is hooked up, or at least it's there - have not determined if the other end is connected!

I made a jumper and tried the stepjoe map last night, but I can't really tell if its working without getting it on the road. The high was 8 degrees here today - so riding is going to have to wait til we're back in the 20s. I will look into the Af-XIED, sounds like a good idea.

I know I didn't answer everyone's questions, so I apologize. I'll be back up on the forum once I start the process of elimination. again - THANKS TO YOU ALL.....
 
fwiw- the Remus muffler is among the loudest, and most obnoxious sounding, mufflers on the market. You'd do better to keep the cat elim (if for no other reason that it's ~13 lbs lighter than stock) on, and find a take-off stock muffler for it.
 
fwiw- the Remus muffler is among the loudest, and most obnoxious sounding, mufflers on the market. You'd do better to keep the cat elim (if for no other reason that it's ~13 lbs lighter than stock) on, and find a take-off stock muffler for it.

If I could find a cheap OEM exhaust, I would do that for sure. I have an ad up to trade an OEM 2006 RT exhaust for an OEM 2004 GSA exhaust....hopefully I'll find a taker.
 
I'm surprised that no-one raised this point

although, i agree with others about getting rid of the obnoxious exhaust; at 41k miles, (your bike being a twin-spark motor), you might need to replace your stick coils.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. Too many variables at this point to pinpoint the issue, so I agree with taking a systematic approach. I think the first thing I'll do is reinstall the cat converter and then take it out for a ride. If nothing else, that should help quiet it down and maybe help with some of the backfiring. While I have the y pipe and headers off, I will put high temp sealant at the connecting points to ensure a tight seal. The next step will be to do a TBS and valve adjustment (if necessary). I don't want to go buy a stock muffler, so that will be sort of a last resort if I can't smooth it out and quiet it down.

Someone asked about the O2 censor - yes, it is hooked up, or at least it's there - have not determined if the other end is connected!

I made a jumper and tried the stepjoe map last night, but I can't really tell if its working without getting it on the road. The high was 8 degrees here today - so riding is going to have to wait til we're back in the 20s. I will look into the Af-XIED, sounds like a good idea.

I know I didn't answer everyone's questions, so I apologize. I'll be back up on the forum once I start the process of elimination. again - THANKS TO YOU ALL.....

The other day a guy I know with an 1150GS told me his bike was running rough off idle. He said he'd just adjusted the valves and performed a TB sync. After a couple questions it turned out that his idle speed was 800 RPM, he'd adjusted his TPS voltage to 370 mV and he had the 30-87a jumper. The only cable adjustments he'd made was to the right-hand throttle body, to sync things at 4000 RPM.

The reason I mention this is because although he'd done a custom "adjustment" of his motorcycle's fueling system and cables, he hadn't aligned it per BMW's specs for the Motronic. I'll post a link to the BMW procedure at the end, which aligns all the parts as a system. Here is what was wrong with what he'd done:

--The correct coding plug was an empty socket. (This is Code 0.)
--The correct TPS voltage (which usually doesn't need adjustment) is 340mV.
--The correct fully warmed up idle speed is 1100 RPM.
--The correct off-idle TB sync is: "Repeatedly open the throttle gradually and increase engine speed from idle to approximately 2,500 rpm to check throttle-valve synchronization". Then find the best compromise at the left or right TB cable adjuster.
--When you finish, cable slack is mostly removed at four adjusters: left & right TB, right handle bar adjuster, and the fast idle lever (it's a good idea to check TB balance with the adjuster in the mid-detent position)

Here's the procedure as BMW wrote it: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...nd-Zero-Zero&p=1003851&viewfull=1#post1003851.
 
Final fine tuning will need to wait until the ambient temperatures get upwards of 50f
The motronic is providing more fuel at low temps and that will mask leanness and surging issues
 
Jeff:

I had a Remus cat delete Y pipe / Hexacone system on my R1150RS and have one on my R1200ST, and have had no Motronic issues related to the exhaust, whatever.

Remus makes all kinds of cans that make varying levels of noise. PowerCones, for example, will take your head off, but Hexacones are so civilized that I can't even hear my bike at highway speeds, most of the time.

As for the stock exhaust, take a look at the link in post 8. That big cat box in the middle is a perfect transmission cooker. The air space is about 2 mm.

I would just take the bike to a good technician in your area, and have him go through it.

Good luck. :thumb
 
I have an '02 GSA that when bought had the stock cat and muffler. I attended a rallye a number of years ago and came across a guy who rode from Colorado to WA with a Y-pipe and Remus and was canvassing any 1150GS owners who were interested in swapping his exhaust as it was too loud. I was interested in a Y-pipe so we swapped the system over right there.

After riding home to BC I immediately put the Remus up for sale :banghead as it was too loud but was still happy with the swap as I got a nice Y pipe with O2 sensor out of the deal and the sale of the Remus easily paid for another OEM muffler.

I recently put a new 02 sensor on and installed new matched Bosch EV14 injectors (Tills.de) and the bike is running like a top!

I have no CCP installed.
 
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