Just for fun, drain plug and filter out for two months, R1100RT

[dieselyoda]

Don't get all bent and tell me how much damage I will do. I will prime my engine before I start it.

Since winter closed fast here, my seasonal TLC is to change the engine oil along with the usual tune-up stuff.

Since I gotta do Nunavut as part of my rotation, I left the drain plug out.

Almost another 1/2 quart or close to 1L came out.

First time in my almost 50 year career as a pro wrench I had done that.

That leads me to believe we aren't actually changing the oil but replenishing the base neutral acid.

Not a bad thing to spend a $$$ on oil change but in my world, an oil change is $$$$$.$$.

Just posting this as an FYI.

 

[Omega Man]

Doesn’t surprise me at all. A quality oil should have properties that allow for maximum coating and adhesion to engine internals. Good on you for remembering that the drain plug was out before refilling!
OM

 

[ksdcr]

That is a lot of oil. My fall/winter change routine, is to leave the plug out for about 15-24 hours. Since the original drain pan is left in place, not sure of the volume that drains after the initial flow.

 

[52184]

Was the oil initially drained hot or cold?

best,
DeVern

 

[riderr1150gsadv]

When I change the oil in my GS, I park the warm bike on the side stand for 30 mins or so and then lean the bike to the right for a while too. It is amazing how much oil comes from the valve covers. Less of a mess this way. You really get an idea of how much oil is in them when you pull these covers off for a valve check…

 

[Paul_F]

Not being mechanical savvy, when Dieselyoda says that he will prime the engine before starting it, what does that entail?

 

[crna59]

Not being mechanical savvy, when Dieselyoda says that he will prime the engine before starting it, what does that entail?

It means pressing the starter button and let the engine crank over for a few seconds without starting it. You can do this by leaving the kill switch in off position.

 

[Omega Man]

It means pressing the starter button and let the engine crank over for a few seconds without starting it. You can do this by leaving the kill switch in off position.

I think on some bikes, the kill switch in the “off” position, prevents the starter from actuating?
OM

 

[52184]

I think on some bikes, the kill switch in the “off” position, prevents the starter from actuating?
OM

Yes, on some bikes. But I can’t count the number of times I’ve seen people unsuccessfully cranking away only to have the bike start when someone finally tripped the “kill” switch.

(A term, btw, we were instructed never to use by the MSF Chief Instructor teaching the cert class I was in. It’s an “engine cut-off switch”)

best,
DeVern

 

[r0ckrat]

Or leave it in gear with the side-stand down, but I think that also prevents the engine from turning over.

 

[dieselyoda]

Not being mechanical savvy, when Dieselyoda says that he will prime the engine before starting it, what does that entail?

Actually, I use an old air tank, fill it with the appropriate oil, charge the tank with air, turn the tank on end, connect a hose to the oil gallery, open the shut off valve and when the tank is empty, check the oil level.

All the galleries, filter and so on are full of clean oil. I do this for every new engine build I do, gasser or diesel.

Cranking with less than security that there is a thin film on the bearings and even filling the oil filter before cranking doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling.

 

[Omega Man]

I think on some bikes, the kill switch in the “off” position, prevents the starter from actuating?
OM

Yes, on some bikes. But I can’t count the number of times I’ve seen people unsuccessfully cranking away only to have the bike start when someone finally tripped the “kill” switch.

(A term, btw, we were instructed never to use by the MSF Chief Instructor teaching the cert class I was in. It’s an “engine cut-off switch”)

best,
DeVern

As it came up, neither the Yamaha TW200 or the BMW F800GS will crank with the "kill switch" in the off position.
As far as what the "kill switch" is called, as a rider is trapped under the still in gear, spinning rear wheel with the tire just about to rub through the riding boot (or riding pants), the call was always "Hit The Kill Switch!".
Probably not a big deal for new riders to have a name older riders will easily understand.
OM

 

[Omega Man]

Actually, I use an old air tank, fill it with the appropriate oil, charge the tank with air, turn the tank on end, connect a hose to the oil gallery, open the shut off valve and when the tank is empty, check the oil level.

All the galleries, filter and so on are full of clean oil. I do this for every new engine build I do, gasser or diesel.

Cranking with less than security that there is a thin film on the bearings and even filling the oil filter before cranking doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling.

No doubt a complete circulation of oil through every nook and cranny is the way to go. I have only seen this in new, race engine builds.
All the rest of the builds seem to rely on assembly lube and using grease (?) in the oil pump to self prime for oil circulation.
That goofy TW200 has an odd bolt up in the head area that you are supposed to loosen and watch for oil pumping out after an oil change.
OM

 

[kbasa]

Don't get all bent and tell me how much damage I will do. I will prime my engine before I start it.

Since winter closed fast here, my seasonal TLC is to change the engine oil along with the usual tune-up stuff.

Since I gotta do Nunavut as part of my rotation, I left the drain plug out.

Almost another 1/2 quart or close to 1L came out.

First time in my almost 50 year career as a pro wrench I had done that.

That leads me to believe we aren't actually changing the oil but replenishing the base neutral acid.

Not a bad thing to spend a $$$ on oil change but in my world, an oil change is $$$$$.$$.

Just posting this as an FYI.

I'd be concerned about condensation inside the engine causing rust on now dry parts if I left it open for very long. I've seen that in my tools in my toolbox.

 

[Paul_F]

Actually, I use an old air tank, fill it with the appropriate oil, charge the tank with air, turn the tank on end, connect a hose to the oil gallery, open the shut off valve and when the tank is empty, check the oil level.

All the galleries, filter and so on are full of clean oil. I do this for every new engine build I do, gasser or diesel.

Cranking with less than security that there is a thin film on the bearings and even filling the oil filter before cranking doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling.

Thank you Dieselyoda (and others) for your replies.

Paul