(Intentionally) Slipping the clutch

[bobs_one]

I have been riding Dirt/Enduro now for many years. My dirt riding GREATLY improved when I became comfortable/skilled at properly slipping the clutch. It's amazing what you can get the Enduro bike through once you know how to properly, and reflexivly, slip the clutch. One of the upgrades that I did to improve this even further was to replace the clutch lever with an aftermarket one (https://www.midwestme.com/clutch-levers/mme-products/clutch-levers) that had a slightly different geometry with resect to the pivot point and the master cylinder to both reduce effort but to also enlarge the lever's movement through the engagement point.

Despite my "skill" with slipping the Enduro bike clutch, I find it very difficult to effectively slip the clutch on the GSA, even though it is a wet, multi-plate clutch like the Enduro bike. I can slip it, but it has a very small lever range of engagement and often feels just "on or off".

So, I was wondering if anyone knew of an aftermarket lever that might have a different geometry or provide some relevant adjustment? I am NOT looking to move the engagement point in or out (although that kind of adjustment would be nice too), I'm really looking for a lever which makes the engagement point "wider".

Any one got a solution?

 

[Visian]

The old dry clutch was so much better at what you are trying to do. Use only one or two fingers and learn to work the engagement range, which is admittedly very small.

Do not over-Rev the motor, ride it like you drive a tractor.

Ian

 

[Omega Man]

You may take into consideration that the dirt bikes weight was about half as much.

OM

 

[tsconver]

The dirt bike was probably a cable clutch as well, they seem to have bigger friction zones than hydraulic clutches do in general.

 

[riderr1150gsadv]

Have a look at Rekluse clutches.....Maybe that is the ticket..
https://rekluse.com/product/torq-drive-clutch-adventure/

 

[075038]

I have learned to slip my 250 KTM EXC hydraulic clutch with 1 or two fingers while revving to get get me up power line steep rocky sections, what a feeling to not stall and make the top using this "pro enduro" technique.

I don't try that on my LC 1200GS however while practicing full lock figure 8's in 1st gear on tarmac and dirt I am having to learn to feather the GS clutch. Maybe some low speed turns like this will help your finger(s) learn for later hill climbs.

 

[brownie0486]

My 12GS and present 11RT seem/ed much easier to find that friction zone and work the cones than my 16RS. I've been able to get to 20 foot circles with the RS with considerable work, but the day I bought the RT I was able to get back to 18's as with the former GS on the first attempt [ and that was in a parking lot on the way home ].

If the above is any indication, the dry clutchs are easier to find and hold the friction zone for me for some reason. The wet clutch lever seems easier/smoother to operate with a narrower range of friction zone to me.

I'm more confident doing cone work with the dry clutch set up. Might be due to two police cone courses with the dry clutch, but there's certainly a difference in the two for me.

 

[crna59]

I use my '22 GS in my Advanced Rider classes. I slip the clutch (while using rear brake) on all my my tight slow speed maneuvers. It takes finesse and lots of practice, but it can be done.