I'm looking for help with diagnosing and ultimately repairing a problem with the ABS-2 system on my 2002 1150 GS.
I bought the bike back in January with 26k miles on the clock and an ABS Fault immediately on start-up due to a low battery issue. I installed a new Odyssey PC680 and the fault cleared on it's own. The next 3k miles were problem free. In June, while riding the Cabot Trail, I came to a complete stop for construction traffic and when I pulled away, the self-test failed and the alternating ABS lights came on. When I returned home, I was able to follow the reset procedure (jumping Pins 2 & 4 on the diagnostic connector) and the bike remained fault free for several weeks. The fault has increased in frequency to the point that now it needs to be reset almost daily. When it does pass the self-test, I exercise the ABS by attempting to lock the wheels on dirt roads in the area and the system is clearly working correctly. The bike does have the original rubber brake lines in place, but I do have a well documented history of the brake fluid being flushed regularly. My plan was to replace the lines this winter with either the Galfer or Spiegler kits. Both of the reservoirs have fluid levels within their appropriate ranges, the pedal and lever feel fine, and the bike is stopping well.
I have read everything that I could find related to the issue here and at all the other relevant sites that I could find (ADVrider, IBMWR, Anton Largiader, etc.). I found several reports of using a Multimeter to count voltage drops as a means of reading out the fault code. I have absolutely no experience using a Multimeter, so I read the instructions and made some educated guesses. First, I borrowed a Digital Multimeter, but couldn't make sense of the quick and wild fluctuations in voltage. I went out and bought a very inexpensive Analog Multimeter and the results are in the video below:
http://vid1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/GFelicio4/ABS/VID_20150914_102533_019_zpssqvfcw6y.mp4
Hopefully you can see in enough detail, despite my shaky cell phone video work, that I have connected the black (-) probe from the COM port to the #2 ABS pin and the red (+) probe from the Voltage/Ohm/MilliAmp? port to the #4 Ground pin. I have set the Meter to measure Direct Current on a 10 volt scale. The voltage begins at 10+ and clearly drops 7 consecutive times and then stabilizes again at 10+ before repeating the same pattern. Appears to be the dreaded Fault Code 7 - Control Unit. Before I start spending significant money on this (or doing something really silly like tearing into the hydro unit with my very limited mechanical skills) can anyone confirm that I have followed the procedure correctly and that I am using the Multimeter properly? Can I trust the method or should I follow up with a Dealer or Independent shop to confirm?
If I have done this right and I have a legit Control Unit issue, I am leaning in the direction of sending it to Module Master for a rebuild. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice.
I bought the bike back in January with 26k miles on the clock and an ABS Fault immediately on start-up due to a low battery issue. I installed a new Odyssey PC680 and the fault cleared on it's own. The next 3k miles were problem free. In June, while riding the Cabot Trail, I came to a complete stop for construction traffic and when I pulled away, the self-test failed and the alternating ABS lights came on. When I returned home, I was able to follow the reset procedure (jumping Pins 2 & 4 on the diagnostic connector) and the bike remained fault free for several weeks. The fault has increased in frequency to the point that now it needs to be reset almost daily. When it does pass the self-test, I exercise the ABS by attempting to lock the wheels on dirt roads in the area and the system is clearly working correctly. The bike does have the original rubber brake lines in place, but I do have a well documented history of the brake fluid being flushed regularly. My plan was to replace the lines this winter with either the Galfer or Spiegler kits. Both of the reservoirs have fluid levels within their appropriate ranges, the pedal and lever feel fine, and the bike is stopping well.
I have read everything that I could find related to the issue here and at all the other relevant sites that I could find (ADVrider, IBMWR, Anton Largiader, etc.). I found several reports of using a Multimeter to count voltage drops as a means of reading out the fault code. I have absolutely no experience using a Multimeter, so I read the instructions and made some educated guesses. First, I borrowed a Digital Multimeter, but couldn't make sense of the quick and wild fluctuations in voltage. I went out and bought a very inexpensive Analog Multimeter and the results are in the video below:
http://vid1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/GFelicio4/ABS/VID_20150914_102533_019_zpssqvfcw6y.mp4
Hopefully you can see in enough detail, despite my shaky cell phone video work, that I have connected the black (-) probe from the COM port to the #2 ABS pin and the red (+) probe from the Voltage/Ohm/MilliAmp? port to the #4 Ground pin. I have set the Meter to measure Direct Current on a 10 volt scale. The voltage begins at 10+ and clearly drops 7 consecutive times and then stabilizes again at 10+ before repeating the same pattern. Appears to be the dreaded Fault Code 7 - Control Unit. Before I start spending significant money on this (or doing something really silly like tearing into the hydro unit with my very limited mechanical skills) can anyone confirm that I have followed the procedure correctly and that I am using the Multimeter properly? Can I trust the method or should I follow up with a Dealer or Independent shop to confirm?
If I have done this right and I have a legit Control Unit issue, I am leaning in the direction of sending it to Module Master for a rebuild. I'd appreciate any thoughts/advice.
