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GPS cradle lock removal

915e

Member
I bought a used GPS cradle and BMW Navigator 5 to use on my 2018 R1200R (was GPS prepped but cradle is missing).

As we all know, the cradle comes locked as that is the only way to remove the key. I watched all the videos you can find on how to release the bottom "wafer" that secures the lock inside the cradle. I wasn't successful with the YouTube procedures, although people make it look easy.

Anyway, does anybody know how the dealer would remove the lock to replace it with a unit ordered for my VIN? Does the dealer use a special tool? Since I can get the original key from the seller (loaned only), will that help in removing the lock?

Also, the seller will send me his spare key, can a locksmith cut a just a metal key, using the OEM key? I don't need a chipped key.

Again, the YouTube videos didn't work for me.
 
You usually need the key to remove the cylinder to re-key the lock. Without the key, the wafers are extended and the cylinder cannot be removed. I just rekeyed some side cases. If the seller will send you his spare key, I would take him up on that. With the key you should be able to remove the cylinder, or bring it to a dealer and have them do. You will also need to get some spare wafers for rekeying from the dealer anyway. My local dealer just gave me the extra ones they keep when the key locks for new accessories.
 
Thanks. The seller is sending me his spare key tomorrow, hopefully a locksmith can just duplicate the key since it just needs to be a mechanical key without electronic chip. I doubt that, even with the key inserted/turned, the lock will come out. From what I understand, the very last wafer is not key-activated. I was wondering how the dealer removes the cylinder.
 
Take a look at this thread:
 
Take a look at this thread:
I found that thread a few days ago and watched the videos and tried to follow the method shown. It just didn't work for me, that why I asked if anybody knows what the dealership does to remove the lock.
 
Thanks. The seller is sending me his spare key tomorrow, hopefully a locksmith can just duplicate the key since it just needs to be a mechanical key without electronic chip.
FYI, not just any locksmith can cut these keys, it requires a special machine. I wanted to get a spare key cut for just opening the locks; I checked with my friendly neighborhood locksmith and he said he couldn’t do it as he didn’t have the machine. He recommended locksmith B. When I checked with locksmith B he said yeah he has the machine to cut these but the machine is currently out-of-order and won’t be working until March. Sigh, back I go in March….
 
hopefully a locksmith can just duplicate the key since it just needs to be a mechanical key without electronic chip
Buying a non chipped key from your dealer is not expensive. Last time I checked it was around $35.
If you have keyless start on your bike the metal key is better than the fob to use on the stiff seat lock.
 
Once you have the previous owners key, removing the last wafer should be easier. Don't cut a copy of the PO's key, just keep it long enough to get the cradle re-keyed to your keys, and then send it back.
 
Once you have the previous owners key, removing the last wafer should be easier. Don't cut a copy of the PO's key, just keep it long enough to get the cradle re-keyed to your keys, and then send it back.
This is good advice, since I doubt the OP would be able to get a key cut anyway.

The issue isn’t finding a locksmith—there are lots of them who can cut the double-sided blanks used by many vehicles today. They just can’t get the blanks to use. Back in 2021 I had this researched by a very, very good local locksmith who found that BMW keys could be cut using one of four different blanks:
BW9EHP
BW9FH
BW9MH
BW9TE

Problem is, there were NO wholesalers who could sell those four blanks. I should probably have him do another run at this to see if the blanks are now available, as back then even dealers could not get blanks, but my guess is they’ve been locked down by BMW as a security measure against vehicle theft.

best,
DeVern
 
Once you have the previous owners key, removing the last wafer should be easier. Don't cut a copy of the PO's key, just keep it long enough to get the cradle re-keyed to your keys, and then send it back.
Once I get the correct key, I will be able to turn the lock cylinder, how will this make it easier to remove the last wafer which secures the lock in the cradle? I still like to know how the dealer removes the lock cylinder, even when the key is available. I highly doubt that they do it like in the online videos.
 
Revisit the lock removal videos. My guess, not having done this before, is that the last wafer (the locking wafer for the cylinder) can be moved/shifted to the correct position for removal with the cylinder in the unlocked position. If this was not the case, removing the cylinders would be far to easy and locks would be picked more often. Just having a key inserted in the lock that doesn't allow the cyl to turn shouldn't be what allows it to be removed.
 
Once I get the correct key, I will be able to turn the lock cylinder, how will this make it easier to remove the last wafer which secures the lock in the cradle? I still like to know how the dealer removes the lock cylinder, even when the key is available. I highly doubt that they do it like in the online videos.
I don't know about the GPS cradle, but for the seats and many cases, once the lock is opened and the key remains in the cylinder, there is usually a slot or hole by the rear side of the cylinder into which you can insert a narrow screwdriver or pin to push the last wafer in, so that you can then pull out the whole cylinder while the key is still inserted.
 
I don't know about the GPS cradle, but for the seats and many cases, once the lock is opened and the key remains in the cylinder, there is usually a slot or hole by the rear side of the cylinder into which you can insert a narrow screwdriver or pin to push the last wafer in, so that you can then pull out the whole cylinder while the key is still inserted.
I've moved my ancient 49L top case to three different bikes using the method summarized by rhbike. Dealers and owners use the same method for removing and changing lock cylinders to match the bike. There is always a pin hole or slot to move the locking wafer once the original key is inserted in the lock. Take your FOB to a BMW motorcycle dealer and ask the sales guy or service manager for a set of extra cylinder wafers, or if they are really nice, ask if they can change the wafers in the existing cylinder to match YOUR key. If not, just buy a new cylinder with wafer kit and do it yourself. Not that hard at all.
 
If the lock is like the top case / side pannier locks, then you can possibly remove it with a lock pick tool. This YouTube video shows the method (the same guy has another video or two as well):

BMW Lock Cylinder Removal

I was able to use this same method to remove the lock cylinder from a top case I bought without a key. Then I re-keyed it to match my existing key. However, I made my own tool using a paper clip. As you can see, the end is somewhat flattened for a better grip on the wafer. It took me quite a few tries to get it, but was able to do it in one evening.



LockpickTool.jpg
 
Just a quick update!

To remove the lock cylinder, you have to remove item #8 shown in the attached parts diagram. If you have the key, just turn to the unlock position and you can slide it out (after the cover is removed).

I never did get the key, so I just cut the part off which sticks out. Once that plastic part is removed you can see the retainer that keeps the lock cylinder in place, and you can easily push it down and remove the lock. After that you can re-key the cylinder or buy a new one. I re-keyed it by removing 3 wafers. The little part I destroyed is on order and costs about $8.00.
 

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