gtgt_bangbang
New member
lil mishap here but getting back to Final Drive the Final push
My 33121233303 Coupling HUB had a groove worn from the blue /green seal grinding against it.
A scored surface on the hub is prone to short seal life & causes lube leaks between final drive & swing arm.
There is a SKF Speedi Sleeve repair for this hub journal , where the seal rides.
This SKF 99111 is the closest sleeve available , for journals 1.100 ~ 1.104"
Its a thin wall stainless tube with a flange to allow driving it over the journal, and a piece of tube/ mandrel to do the deed.
The green seal design itself is pretty compliant , and should allow a the slight OD increase of the sleeve.
Oil the sleeve before inserting it into the seal, twisting , ect, but still the first time I put it in, the seal puckered and the spring popped off.
Make sure the seal is not botched , the spring is in place , you can easily see in there.
Every other insertion went easily after the seal limbered up.
If the scores are deep enough , it is possible that wear mark will " print " through the light gauge steel sleeve, for a poor repair.
IN this case , SKF says coat the journal with filled epoxy and drive on sleeve before the epoxy sets.
I installed this sleeve dry , its plenty tight and still have a fairly easy option to remove / replace it if needed.
I started to clean up the score marks off the hub journal, but Im not set up to do that precisely ( lathe , money , ect)
so I installed mine with about 1/2 the wear seen above . I dont see a problem.
One possible error with sleeve repair is driving the sleeve to the wrong depth.
I had intended to drive the sleeve just deep enough so the sleeve 's tapered end would meet just below where the hub's taper end stopped.
There is plenty of open space in the FD assembly to leave the flange on, btw , no obstructions there.
No real reason to break the flange off where it is scribed to allow that.
Since IME breaking off the driving flange can deform the repair, I leave the flanges on if possible.
ON this one, while driving it on ( its was a relatively tight fit... the hub journal OD is at the high end of the sleeve range
- so tight the driving flange was deforming ...
I gave it one more teensy weeny hulk smash before stopping to admire the results ,
but the sleeve suddenly gave way & bottomed out against the hub cog portion.
What probably happened was , when enough of the sleeve cleared the journal ( there is a diameter relief there )
the driving force required dropped. or dang I still Got It.
Either way, while its not impossible to remove a mis-installed sleeve, but it is expensive ... I think this sleeve was ~$25 from rockauto
If you were smart , you would put some kind of blocking shims before driving the sleeve , to stop the sleeve depth with a couple mm to go.
But I'm ok being lucky;
I inked the sleeve and installed it through the seal for a couple spins,
and while its obvious that the seal lip will ride on an intended / smooth surface,
not by much ! and you can see stopping a few mm short of full depth would have been 'better'.
My 33121233303 Coupling HUB had a groove worn from the blue /green seal grinding against it.
A scored surface on the hub is prone to short seal life & causes lube leaks between final drive & swing arm.
There is a SKF Speedi Sleeve repair for this hub journal , where the seal rides.
This SKF 99111 is the closest sleeve available , for journals 1.100 ~ 1.104"
Its a thin wall stainless tube with a flange to allow driving it over the journal, and a piece of tube/ mandrel to do the deed.
The green seal design itself is pretty compliant , and should allow a the slight OD increase of the sleeve.
Oil the sleeve before inserting it into the seal, twisting , ect, but still the first time I put it in, the seal puckered and the spring popped off.
Make sure the seal is not botched , the spring is in place , you can easily see in there.
Every other insertion went easily after the seal limbered up.
If the scores are deep enough , it is possible that wear mark will " print " through the light gauge steel sleeve, for a poor repair.
IN this case , SKF says coat the journal with filled epoxy and drive on sleeve before the epoxy sets.
I installed this sleeve dry , its plenty tight and still have a fairly easy option to remove / replace it if needed.
I started to clean up the score marks off the hub journal, but Im not set up to do that precisely ( lathe , money , ect)
so I installed mine with about 1/2 the wear seen above . I dont see a problem.
One possible error with sleeve repair is driving the sleeve to the wrong depth.
I had intended to drive the sleeve just deep enough so the sleeve 's tapered end would meet just below where the hub's taper end stopped.
There is plenty of open space in the FD assembly to leave the flange on, btw , no obstructions there.
No real reason to break the flange off where it is scribed to allow that.
Since IME breaking off the driving flange can deform the repair, I leave the flanges on if possible.
ON this one, while driving it on ( its was a relatively tight fit... the hub journal OD is at the high end of the sleeve range
- so tight the driving flange was deforming ...
I gave it one more teensy weeny hulk smash before stopping to admire the results ,
but the sleeve suddenly gave way & bottomed out against the hub cog portion.
What probably happened was , when enough of the sleeve cleared the journal ( there is a diameter relief there )
the driving force required dropped. or dang I still Got It.
Either way, while its not impossible to remove a mis-installed sleeve, but it is expensive ... I think this sleeve was ~$25 from rockauto
If you were smart , you would put some kind of blocking shims before driving the sleeve , to stop the sleeve depth with a couple mm to go.
But I'm ok being lucky;
I inked the sleeve and installed it through the seal for a couple spins,
and while its obvious that the seal lip will ride on an intended / smooth surface,
not by much ! and you can see stopping a few mm short of full depth would have been 'better'.
