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On my RT, the pilot 4gt's were getting roughly 6500, maybe as much as 7K on the rear. 3 sets of dunlop RS4's have given me 9K and as much as 10K on the rear with no degradation of grip on wet roads. Hence the reason I switched. Now I can swap both tires at the same time, as the GTs and RS's fronts last about 9K sometimes 10K.Pilot Road 4GT's..... They do well and last as long as any other for me anyhow and they are cheap.
Running 37/40 when not loaded for a trip/on a trip, but run 37/42 fully loaded. I also find the front turns in just a bit quicker [ or at least it feels like it does ]. Running 37 I don't get the cupping later in the tires life.I'm also in the RS4 camp. Virtually all tires these days are pretty darn good for handling, but I think the Dunlops last a bit longer and their handling degrades less near the end of the tread life.
Also, counter to the 38/42 psi pressures that seems to be recommended by all manufacturer's for most of their models my experience with the Dunlops on my RT is 38/38 makes me happier. The front end turns in a bit easier at that pressure and the ride from the stiff-carcass Dunlop rear is more comfortable without any degradation of grip or feel.
I mount my own tires. For my K1600, I have noticed no difference in mounting difficulty between RS3's and RS4's having identical load ratings. Tires rated for the K1600 are as stiff as motorbike tires get. The RS3/RS4's rear tires for the K1600 are the most challenging tires I've mounted on any bike, and within the K1600 community, others find them the most difficult brand to mount. The RS3/RS4 fronts are easy - as easy as I've found in mounting front or rears on most other bikes.I install my own tires with a manual changer. The Dunlop RS3 are too stiff making it very difficult to install and remove, so much so I won't buy them again. I've read the Dunlop RS4 aren't difficult anyone that can confirm this? I did like the RS3... It also seems both Dunlop RS4 and Michelin Road 5 GT and 6 GT are price fixed, so all sellers are at the same price or very close.
Thank you rhbike. I have an orginal NoMar changer with an upgraded bead breaker (they gave me at no charge) and like you the Mojolever (great tool). Living in the country I'm by myself, it is much easier changing tires when I have extra hands but that happens during a blue moon. I'm now 70 and that has a lot to do with it as well. A year or two ago I had a set of RS3 I mounted, it wasn't easy but I got them on but when it came to dismounting I gave up quickly and cut them off with a utility knife around the sidewall.I mount my own tires. For my K1600, I have noticed no difference in mounting difficulty between RS3's and RS4's having identical load ratings. Tires rated for the K1600 are as stiff as motorbike tires get. The RS3/RS4's rear tires for the K1600 are the most challenging tires I've mounted on any bike, and within the K1600 community, others find them the most difficult brand to mount. The RS3/RS4 fronts are easy - as easy as I've found in mounting front or rears on most other bikes.
Seems a shame to shy away from nice riding tires simply because you have difficulty mounting them.
I've been using a NoMar Pro (which they no longer appear to sell). I chose it, primarily for the bead breaker, as I ride on BST carbon fiber rims, which I don't want to risk gouging. It doesn't much matter what manual tire changer you use, but the dismount/mount bar IMHO does makes a huge difference. Life got a whole lot easier for me when I switched to using a Mojolever instead of the NoMar bar. I still use the NoMar bar for dismounting/mounting the front, which has never given me any trouble. The NoMar unmount tip is plenty stout enough for dismounting the K1600 front and front/rear tires on any other bike I've changed tires for, and the tip is designed to break if you are doing anything stupid. However, the NoMar tip is nowhere near stout enough for most K1600 rear tires, even with the most optimal technique. The Mojolever unmount tip will break a rim if you don't know what you are doing long before the tip will break. For mounting, the NoMar bar needs to pull about a 4" section of the bead way beyond the lip of the rim which requires way more leverage for the last 1/3rd of the bead while working all the more to keep the rest of the bead in the drop center. With NoMar bar, I'd have to finish mounting the last 1/3rd with spoons. The MojoLever simply nudges the bead over the rim lip, which means much less force is required and less of the rest of the bead has to be the drop center. No spoons required. I don't use the Mojolever for the front, as it gets too close to the disc rotors - which is fine, as fronts have never given me trouble. With the Mojolever, I can now dismount and mount a K1600 rear RS3 or RS4 in about 5 minutes and don't even break a sweat. Perhaps that will be of help to you too.
I used my Cycle Hill Tire changer for the RS4 recently on my 2010 R1200RT. They slipped on/off like butter. I spent more time getting the wheels on/off the bike that I did getting the tires ON/OFF.I install my own tires with a manual changer. The Dunlop RS3 are too stiff making it very difficult to install and remove, so much so I won't buy them again. I've read the Dunlop RS4 aren't difficult anyone that can confirm this? I did like the RS3... It also seems both Dunlop RS4 and Michelin Road 5 GT and 6 GT are price fixed, so all sellers are at the same price or very close.