Centech AP-2 on a 2010 R1200GS

[John M]

I recently purchased a new to me 2010 R1200GS and sold my '01 R1150 GS. Wanting to add a few things, I decided to add a fuze block, and went with the Centech AP-2 which offers several switched and a couple of unswitched circuits.
I purchased the kit for my bike from Excel Cycle Werks - http://www.excelcyclewerkes.com/index_files/Page672.htm to make the most of my limited mechanical skills by having the whole thing ready to go.

The kit includes a bracket, which takes the place of the T bracket that mounts to the body panels over the gas tank. You reused the clip nuts and existing bolts. I wasn't completely loving the resulting flex in the panels but after putting everything back together it seems ok. the bracket fits perfectly and feels very solid.


You mount the unit onto the bracket, and the wires and relay are all set to go. The only thing left to remove is the right side plastic side cover. I've learned to push them out by putting pressure on the rubber christmas tree vs. pulling them off.


You connect the relay to an existing bracket (already threaded but unused), which is scraped to clean metal to insure a good circuit. electrical grease is provided in the kit to help maintain good connections as well.

The relay connects via a slick little power tap and after a few zip ties everything was ready to go. The relay worked perfectly and the whole thing went together well.

I'm at my three picture limit so will do a follow up post on the last connection and the fuze block installed.

Overall I was impressed by everything fitting well, wiring was long enough without extra to worry about and I like the simplicity of switched and unswitched options, as well as the 60amp relay capacity.

Tom at Excel Cycle Werks was friendly, shipped right away and everything came as promised.

 

[John M]

AP-2 - last couple pictures

The relay has a connector which acts like a vampire connector - and goes together in just a minute or two.


All said and done, it took my about an hour to install, and I'm sure more accomplished folks could do it in minutes. I felt it came out well, everything fit back together, and worked as planned. I did connect my battery tender leads directly to the battery, but a connector for heated gear,power to my cases and tank bag and running lights all fit very conveniently and were simple to connect. The unit is easily converted to the AP-1 all switched circuit option as well. I did end up putting a bit of electrical tape (3M heavy duty / xtra thick) along the top edge of the fuze block just to provide a little more weather protection.

There is room to get the battery out without removing the fuze block - also a consideration.


Sorry if the picture angles aren't optimal - I need to be more consistent how I use the phone camera.

So as I said - very satisfied to this point.

 

[Omega Man]

Thanks for the effort John
This comes up all the time. It looks like the "vampire" connector is the relay trigger? Does the instructions show that wire as the wire to tap into?
Gary

 

[John M]

Thanks for the effort John
This comes up all the time. It looks like the "vampire" connector is the relay trigger? Does the instructions show that wire as the wire to tap into?
Gary

The directions are all text and do call out the green wire with blue stripe. And yes again - the black thin wire from the relay acts to trigger the relay when the key is turned on. The instructions were very clear, but it would be nice to have pictures to follow. I never had a problem tearing apart my older bikes, but as i moved to newer, more complex, more expensive ones I like to be sure I'm doing things correctly.

 

[Omega Man]

Very good John. I take it that the power is coming out of the diagnostic plug? No doubt more clear iffin' I was looking at it.
OM