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Clearwater LED and Hyperlite install on an '09 RT

motorefrob

New member
Busy this weekend installing Clearwater Darla LEDs on the front and Hyperlite LED brake light on the rear. For anyone considering DIY, I highly recommend doing it. It's not hard at all. I had to remove all of the body panels (tupperware) but even that wasn't so bad. One T25 torx wrench is all you need. Also, kudos to Clearwater for manufacturing a quality product. Yes, these Darla lights are pricey, but they're worth every penny. I had Clearwater wire in a Wig Wag function (strobe function) to my lights. I wanted the strobe since I'm an USA Cycling motoref and it's good visibility when I'm leading a bike race. I installed the ON-OFF-WIGWAG switch on my left side upper fairing panel (where a radio would go). I also installed the dimmer switch, and wig-wag switch which changes strobe patterns. I wired the Clearwater lights directly into my battery. I was able to tap my Darla's into my high beam for full power LEDs. I tapped into my low beam for switched power. The Darla's came with an inline fuse. It comes with a relay built in..so no need for a separate fuse block or wiring harness w/ relay. Basically, the kit comes with everything. Total time: 3 hrs. If I had to do it again, I could probably cut that time in half.

The Hyperlite LED brake lights were a breeze to install. They mounted to the license plate bracket with 3M sticky tape. I ran the wires behind the license plate and drilled a hole into the plastic fender and ran them inside the wheel well up into the back of the brake light. I covered the wires in the wheel well with Gorilla tape to keep them safe. I was able to get a switched power source from the Alarm Connector underneath the passenger seat. Posi-tapped and done with. The Hyperlites come with a controller that hooks up to the brake light. Real easy to access the brake lights. Total time: 1 hr.

Lastly, as long as the tupperware was off the bike, I installed plastic valve cover guards from Touratech. They covered existing scratches on the cover plate from where the previous owner dropped the bike. They were inexpensive ($100) compared to the metal ones that go for $300. I figure if I drop the bike and booger em up, I'll just get new ones. Lots cheaper than buying a new valve cover. Total time: 30 minutes.

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I've got the same Clearwater Darla lights to install on my 11 RT. While I'm somewhat comfortable with tapping into the CANBUS, it's good to know that it's not a overly difficult job to do. I've also got the Admore Light Bar to install so, more than likely, I'll be stripping my bike of her Tupperware once the weather cools down. (91 today with high humidity...no thanks)

My Darla kit came with the relays to tap into both the horn and high beams. I'm not sure if I'll use either, but once I get in there I'll try figuring it out.

Thanks for the post.
DC
 
I've got the same Clearwater Darla lights to install on my 11 RT. While I'm somewhat comfortable with tapping into the CANBUS, it's good to know that it's not a overly difficult job to do. I've also got the Admore Light Bar to install so, more than likely, I'll be stripping my bike of her Tupperware once the weather cools down. (91 today with high humidity...no thanks)

My Darla kit came with the relays to tap into both the horn and high beams. I'm not sure if I'll use either, but once I get in there I'll try figuring it out.

Thanks for the post.
DC

DC..I'd tap into the hi-beam for auto-switching the Darla LEDs to full power, and tap into the low-beam for switched power. The wires are both on the same headlight wiring harness...relatively easy to get to. Rob
 
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