Centech AP-1 vs. Touratech TPS-15

[grw]

I have both the Centech AP-1 and the Touratech TPS-15 on my '06 R1200RT.

As GlobalRider pointed out, the TPS-15 can't handle near the load that the Centech can. That works fine for my application, but could be a problem if you're looking to mount up aux lighting, bigger horns, etc.

Before you decide on which you need, you need to evaluate what you're planning to power off of your power block to make sure it'll meet your needs. I'm also inclined to go with what you're shop is comfortable with, as you'll likely be leaning on them if/when there's a problem, so being in their comfort zone should help get things fixed quicker and easier. Just my $0.02 worth.

Thanks for the good advice!

I wound up going with the Centech and not switching it. It's wired directly to the battery. On the initial hookup the two stock accessory outlets were moved to the Centech as was the 30A circuit for the Stebel horn. We also put the Garmin on it. The third accessory socket was left on the CANbus in case I want switched power for something else.

Since then I installed additional items including a radar detector, Mixit2, and iPod.

BTW I have made a habit of tinning my wires before installing them in the lugless terminals. Do you know if this is a good idea?

Thanks again.

-Gary

 

[globalrider]

BTW I have made a habit of tinning my wires before installing them in the lugless terminals. Do you know if this is a good idea?

-Gary

Normally no...it depends how you do it. I crimp my terminals on with the wire just long enough to be flush with the barrel opening. Then I solder the end very carefully so that the solder does not feed down the wire. We're talking: apply heat first, and a quick dab of solder.

This way, you have a permanent electrical connection as well as a mechanical one. I do likewise to my Molex connectors, etc.

I've been doing this since the early 80s and have yet to have any of my connections fail.

I also use quality heat shrink, the rubbery kind and slip a 1" long section in either red or black over the wire prior to crimping on the terminal. It then gets slipped over the barrel of the terminal and heat shrinked...the excess acts as a strain relief for the wire. It also looks more professional.