ROLLIFAHRER
New member
My '98 1100RT blew a fork seal, so I pulled the fender, wheel, etc. and didn't have any problems until I tried to remove the 2 bolts that attach the fork slider to the lower fork bridge. The studs on top of the fork tubes are rubber mounted to the top fork bridge (triple clamp), and with one fork off, the other just kind of flops around when you try to turn the bolts. Lesson 1: loosen both sides before removing one side.
I had felt a little slop in the steering at the bars, and decided maybe it was the balljoint. With a little heat, the ball joint top nut came off and the remaining fork came out easily enough for service. OK, why not replace the balljoint? The bike has 125K and I plan to keep it and it's a lot of work get to it and, and, and. Called my shop, yes they have it, $100.00. OK what if it fails far from home? What if I need towed 300 miles? What if I hav eto wait for the part? what if I get gouged on the replacment? OK 100.00 worth of insurnace.
According to Clymer, you need heat for the top nut due to LockTight, but the bottom just takes a 46 MM scocket. Well, not just a 46 MM, a 46 MM DEEPWELL, which of course the techs at my shop didn't have. No problem, I'll get one at NAPA and have it to share w other oilers. Uh, forgot to check the torque spec.: 96 ft/lbs. My vice is in a storage unit with no power, so I took my heat gun and 1000 watt generator. I put a pipe on my breaker and tried it. No go. I fired up the little Honda and put the heat on high. Also no go; breaker you see. OK let's try low; no go, not hot enough. Lesson 2: 96 ft/lbs is a LOT if you don't have a good vice and a huge breaker and/or an industrial heat gun AND 20 amps.
I took the whole shebang over to the shop that works on my cars. Yeah, no problem. Hey Rick, this 46 MM doesn't fit, too loose. Plus the nut is very thin and you lose some grip due the the thick wall of the socket catching the recess around the nut. I told the car tech the beemer tech said it might need heat. No, I won't hit this forged aluminum with oxy/acet., it'll freakin' melt, he explained. I thought, well how about propane or electric, but decided to let the meister do his thing. I was chatting with the owner when I heard the sweet sound of a pnuematic impact wrench grunt and groan then spin unloaded. Lesson 3: they're called pros for a reason!
Total cost: 105.00 with tax for part; 50.00 for socket and 1/2" to 3/4: drive adapter; 2 hours chasing parts and failing to remove it; 15 minutes and a case of cheap beer for a professional mechanic; significant ego damage.
Anybody need a 46 MM deepwell, impact socket? I won't need it for another 125 thousand miles!
I had felt a little slop in the steering at the bars, and decided maybe it was the balljoint. With a little heat, the ball joint top nut came off and the remaining fork came out easily enough for service. OK, why not replace the balljoint? The bike has 125K and I plan to keep it and it's a lot of work get to it and, and, and. Called my shop, yes they have it, $100.00. OK what if it fails far from home? What if I need towed 300 miles? What if I hav eto wait for the part? what if I get gouged on the replacment? OK 100.00 worth of insurnace.
According to Clymer, you need heat for the top nut due to LockTight, but the bottom just takes a 46 MM scocket. Well, not just a 46 MM, a 46 MM DEEPWELL, which of course the techs at my shop didn't have. No problem, I'll get one at NAPA and have it to share w other oilers. Uh, forgot to check the torque spec.: 96 ft/lbs. My vice is in a storage unit with no power, so I took my heat gun and 1000 watt generator. I put a pipe on my breaker and tried it. No go. I fired up the little Honda and put the heat on high. Also no go; breaker you see. OK let's try low; no go, not hot enough. Lesson 2: 96 ft/lbs is a LOT if you don't have a good vice and a huge breaker and/or an industrial heat gun AND 20 amps.
I took the whole shebang over to the shop that works on my cars. Yeah, no problem. Hey Rick, this 46 MM doesn't fit, too loose. Plus the nut is very thin and you lose some grip due the the thick wall of the socket catching the recess around the nut. I told the car tech the beemer tech said it might need heat. No, I won't hit this forged aluminum with oxy/acet., it'll freakin' melt, he explained. I thought, well how about propane or electric, but decided to let the meister do his thing. I was chatting with the owner when I heard the sweet sound of a pnuematic impact wrench grunt and groan then spin unloaded. Lesson 3: they're called pros for a reason!
Total cost: 105.00 with tax for part; 50.00 for socket and 1/2" to 3/4: drive adapter; 2 hours chasing parts and failing to remove it; 15 minutes and a case of cheap beer for a professional mechanic; significant ego damage.
Anybody need a 46 MM deepwell, impact socket? I won't need it for another 125 thousand miles!
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