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jimbem

Member
The stator on my high mileage RT went bad while on the interstate south of O'hare airport in traffic with my wife on the back. We did get to the shoulder safely. This happened the sunday before Memorial day.On Tuesday using MOA roadside assistance I got it owed to my dealer.That took 9 1/2 hours ,7 phone calls and alot of aggravation but is story for another time .
The dealer diagnosed the problem 1st thing Wednesday morning as a bad stator. He says I should put a new regulator in at the same time. 7 hours labor,almost $300 for the regulator and $1280 for the stator. Total estimate $2500.
I want to keep this bike even though I picked up my new Triple Black RT the day after dropping off the 2015. But the old RT won't be used on long trips anymore. It will be for riding in the rain in town or for picking things up too big to fit in the panniers. Because of that I'm hoping to find an less expensive alternate to the BMW expensive stator.
I see there are places that rebuild stators but they require a core. I am sure my dealer doesn't want to tie up a lift waiting for my rebuilt stator to come back.And I'm not too sure I want to buy a used one. How would I know if is even good.
Has anyone had to replace their stator?Did you find a reliable less expensive alternate? Or does someone have an idea I haven't thought of?
 
I replaced a defective stator on an F800 with one from Rich's. It was a perfect fit and worked fine as long as we owned the bike. It still is good with the new owner. It was inexpensive compared to a new OEM one. I also had a stator failure on my G310 but BMW replaced the entire charging system under warranty.
 
Paul, did you have to send Rich your bad one or was there a core charge that got refunded when did send the bad one?
 
I guess I didn't refresh my screen or something. After I posted my reply question I saw Paul and someolse had replied. Thankyou guys. I will call Rich's on monday
 
I checked out "Rick's" Motorsports site. Wow ,what a savings. And they sell the regulator also at almost half the cost of the oem. Thankyou, thankyou guys.Tuesday I will be sure the dealer will install these parts and order them .
 
I have had good luck with Rick’s. The had a shop tour on a past episode of Fisher’s ATV show. As I mentioned in an earlier post, using aftermarket parts changes how a dealer service/repair works. This can be as simple as wrong parts ordered or shipped or later failures that could be a part or labor.
Let us know how you make out if you can.
Good luck.
OM
 
I've also had good luck with Rick's. I've used their voltage regulators on a couple of my other bikes and they have been trouble free for many years.
 
I've also had good luck with Rick's. I've used their voltage regulators on a couple of my other bikes and they have been trouble free for many years.

Stator burnout was common in the F800 bikes prior to 2013. In 2013 BMW quietly change the flywheel design by ventilating it so that it would cool the stator while never overtly admitting that there was a design fault to begin with. You cannot buy a BMW stator on its own, you can only buy it bundled with the improved flywheel at a cost of $1275.

When the boxers changed from an external field regulated alternator to an internal stator type I remember looking at diagrams of the stator location and thinking that's going to be expensive to replace due to the location. At least on the F800 it only involves the removal of the readily accessible right side engine cover.

I have read that getting to the stator on a wethead involves removing the engine.

1200 stator.jpg
 
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I contacted Rick's about a replacement stator and was told I do have to provide them with a core. And that they are backed up to the point it will take at least 2 weeks to get it back. I knew my dealer (Cycle Werks in Barrington) does not want to tie up a lift for any where near that long. So I've been trying to find an alternate. The BMW pn.# for it is 12318556028. I found on e-bay a stator for a GS and another that has a different part # but says it will fit my bike. I am sure these stators will bolt into place but have my doubts as to if they will work properly. I assume thats why BMW gave each it's own part number. Does anyone have thoughts or know where I can get a used stator even if it's bad?
 
I replaced the stator on my wife's F800 pre-emptively because I didn't want hers to fail on a trip from Ontario to California. The one I removed was working but it was toasty black so it could have failed anytime.

I looked into having the old one rewound but it was prohibitively expensive. Better to just buy a new one.

But in the process of researching the subject I read articles and posts about rewinding and the materials to use.

In addition to using the correct gauge of wire an important consideration is the insulation. It has to withstand the heat and not break down.

Stator failures are almost always the result of insulation breakdown. Either the windings short out or they short to ground.

So the point of my post is to pass along a recommendation that I saw for the insulation to use.

It is 240C polyimide insulation. You may wish to check what insulation any prospective rewind shop intends to use to ensure that it can take the heat.

You don't want to have to do this again given where that stator resides.

EDIT
I found a photo of the recommended wire in my collection:
Stator wire.jpg

Note the NEMA MW16-C spec which is good to 240C. There is also a MW16-A spec good to 260C.

Also on the F800s some have replaced the OEM shunt style regulator with a series style regulator. The former is said to contribute to stator heating because it effectively shorts out the stator to achieve voltage regulation thus increasing its average current load. Conversely the series regulator opens the circuit to achieve voltage regulation and interrupts current flow.

I don't know what form of regulation your bike uses but it may be worth researching.

Good luck in your quest.
 
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Radio flyer, thankyou for the ideas but rewinding the stator is way above my skill, competence or confidence level. So I'm still searching for a used stator in good or not working condition. Or where I can get new stator other than the $1280 OEM
 
So I entered "used bmw r1200 stator replacement". I found about 5 or 6 diferent sites that sell new stators for around $150. They vary from site to site. But the ads all look the same or very simular. And they list them for multiple part #'s meaning they will work in multiple bikes. GS,RT R and so on. I am worried about buying one of these and finding out the ones for the GS and the RT are in fact different in some way. Perhaps more windings or bigger magnets . Any thoughts?
 
Radio flyer, thankyou for the ideas but rewinding the stator is way above my skill, competence or confidence level. So I'm still searching for a used stator in good or not working condition. Or where I can get new stator other than the $1280 OEM
I was more thinking that you were considering having the stator rewound. I would not do it either.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 
So I entered "used bmw r1200 stator replacement". I found about 5 or 6 diferent sites that sell new stators for around $150. They vary from site to site. But the ads all look the same or very simular. And they list them for multiple part #'s meaning they will work in multiple bikes. GS,RT R and so on. I am worried about buying one of these and finding out the ones for the GS and the RT are in fact different in some way. Perhaps more windings or bigger magnets . Any thoughts?
If you enter the BMW part number in the search function of the MAX BMW fiche it will list all the models and years that part is used on. This helps verify compatibility and give more possibilities for used part searching.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 
So I entered "used bmw r1200 stator replacement". I found about 5 or 6 diferent sites that sell new stators for around $150. They vary from site to site. But the ads all look the same or very simular. And they list them for multiple part #'s meaning they will work in multiple bikes. GS,RT R and so on. I am worried about buying one of these and finding out the ones for the GS and the RT are in fact different in some way. Perhaps more windings or bigger magnets . Any thoughts?

BMW parts fiche says the R, RS, GS, and GSA all use the same part number, 12 31 8 356 824. The RT uses 12 31 8 556 028. I've no idea why they would be different. Published output is the same for all.

I'd have to have confidence in the return policy before ordering an aftermarket stator. One site I saw had four different stators that it claimed would fit a 2015 R1200GS. They had clear physical differences and one of those claimed it was compatible with 2004-2019 models, which is impossible since most of those years use an external automotive style alternator. Not saying there is not a reasonably priced option out there, just be careful.
 
Just wondering if you have checked out the stator discussions over in the GS Boxer forum at ADVRIDER. Seems to be a lot there about changing part numbers over time as well as regulator discussions.

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BMW parts fiche says the R, RS, GS, and GSA all use the same part number, 12 31 8 356 824. The RT uses 12 31 8 556 028. I've no idea why they would be different. Published output is the same for all.

I'd have to have confidence in the return policy before ordering an aftermarket stator. One site I saw had four different stators that it claimed would fit a 2015 R1200GS. They had clear physical differences and one of those claimed it was compatible with 2004-2019 models, which is impossible since most of those years use an external automotive style alternator. Not saying there is not a reasonably priced option out there, just be careful.

Thanks guys , You're right. I checked the part fiche also and the RT is the only one with a different part number. I will NOT be buying one of the ones advertised to fit each model of bike. I will get ahold of Rick's motorsports electronics and ask them if they know why they are different and if they can make the changes to one from a GS, if i send them one, to RT specs
 
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