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'92 K75s adventure!

robday

New member
This is a little bit of a ride report, but there is a good bit of wisdom in the story as well, and how seemingly little things can come back to haunt you later.

First, some background:
The journey started here in Los Angeles. I rode North to Atascadero (San Luis Obispo county) to meet my brother. The next morning we met the other two riders for breakfast, one of whom was riding a K1200LT (my brother and the other rider were on Yamahas). We then made our way East towards Fresno and into Yosemite.

The ride this far was great, perfect weather and not much traffic. Once we left Oakhurst, I started recording the ride with a Contour HD camera mounted under the fairing above the front wheel.
Once in the park, there was heavy traffic and a lot of very slow riding. My brother and I communicate with a Cardo Scala Q2 mutliset, and we were talking the whole time...and I wasn't paying close enough attention to my riding. I made a stupid rookie move and dumped the bike. Here is the view from the camera (that's my brother ahead of me):

http://contour.com/video/what-youre-not-supposed-do

This was a low-speed mishap that resulted in zero injury and almost zero damage to the bike. Scratched paint was the only apparent damage, and even that was minimal. The spot was deep, soft dirt, and it covered me and the right side of the bike. And that dirt came back to haunt me later...

After coming out of the Tioga Pass, we continued on to Lundy Lake, where we have a small piece of property with two travel trailers parked on it.
The next morning we rode up to Bridgeport for breakfast. On the way back to camp, we decided to stop on Conway Summit for pictures of Mono Lake. Upon leaving, there was a problem with the bike. The starter motor would not disengage! I shut off the key, then tried again...same thing. So I coasted down the summit until I was within a few hundred yards of Lundy road. I started the bike and rode it (with the starter spinning) back to camp. I sent the rest of the guys on their way for a day of riding while I dug into the problem.
When I got to camp, not only was the starter spinning, but it would not stop EVEN WITH THE KILL SWITCH AND IGNITION TURNED OFF! The rest of the guys were telling me that it had to be something in the dash/switches, which is partially correct. But I knew that the odds of the ignition switch shorting AND the start button shorting at the same time was minimal. So I began to dig for the starter relay.
Yes, that meant pulling the tank in camp (I ALWAYS have tools in camp). Since I didn't have the repair manual with me (and don't read German), I had to trace wires to know for sure which relay to check. I pulled the relay coil wires from the relay and again connected my PowerTank to jumpstart it since the battery had long since gone dead. Guess what? STILL SPINNING. Meaning the relay contacts were stuck together. Ugh.
Knowing that there was no way to get my hands on a relay in the Eastern Sierras, I decided to open it up and see if there was something I could do. I have AAA motorcycle coverage, but that would have likely meant the end of the ride for me. So I dug deeper...
I destroyed the housing to get it open, and found the contacts stuck together. As soon as I touched them, they came apart. They had fused in a very tiny spot. So I cleaned up the contacts and put the relay back together and in the bike.
Now I had to figure out why this had happened. So I opened up the switch assembly. At first everything looked fine. There was no dirt inside. All of the various contacts looked good. But I knew the problem was likely to be in there because the right handlebar was buried in the dirt when I dumped it. So I kept checking...and removed the start button/kill switch from the body. Several grains of dirt came out with it, and I remembered one of the guys saying he thought he saw the start switch "pop up" on it's own when we first saw problems on Conway Summit. Huh. So it would appear that those grains of dirt might have held the relay closed too long, and fused the contacts together.
I put the bike back together and test started it a dozen or so times. Everything was ok, but I knew the battery was shot and I needed a new relay.
I suited up to go meet the rest of the group in June Lake just as they returned. But they were happy to see me mobile, so we went for another ride out to Benton Hot Springs, the Owens River, and back through Mammoth to camp.

The final day was long for me, but extremely enjoyable. We rode over the Sonora Pass, and since it was Tuesday there was nobody on the road. We had it all to ourselves! Sure, Yosemite was beautiful, but the Sonora Pass is MADE FOR MOTORCYCLES in my opinion. This part of the ride was absolutely fantastic. The footage I have is stunning!
We came out near Modesto and decided to cut across to Hwy 5 so that we could ride together into Kettleman City where I would say goodbye to the crew and continue home. I put nearly 800 miles on the bike that day, between 10 and 12 total hours riding. It was freezing up on the Grapevine, but warmed up as I came into L.A.

I ordered a new starter relay this morning...ouch. $90? Really?
And I'm going to have to get a new battery too. I'm not buying another stock BMW battery, I want something a little more advanced this time. Any thoughts?

P.S. Please feel free to have a laugh watching that video...I did, and you can hear me at the end of the clip...
 
Hey Rob,

You're too young to be having "senior moments" like that! Brain fade can be a bitch when you're riding. Glad to hear damage was minimal.


As far as batteries go, the best around are the Odyssey batteries. Tons of power and reserve. They hold their charge much longer when inactive (not as much of a deal for us with 12 month riding seasons here in California, but great for other climates). Fast charging. Two year full warranty. AGM technology.


For your bike you have two choices:

PC680 (NOT PC680MJ) is the recommended replacement battery for your bike. It is half as deep (front to back) as the stock battery with the same power.

OR

PC925L (NOT PC925) The same size as the stock battery (must be mounted on its side) with WAY more power and reserve.

The best prices that I have recently seen on these are:

http://www.autopartsdealer.com/odyssey_drycell_batteries-p347588-p.html

http://www.autopartsdealer.com/odyssey_drycell_batteries-p371804-p.html (photo NOT correct).

FREE SHIPPING but you'll have to pay sales tax as they are in Ca. But it's still cheaper than the other prices I've found.



:dance:dance:dance
 
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The Odyssey is the best of the best though there are a bunch of AGM (aka Dry Cell) and Gel sealed batteries around that people like. To be honest the $30 or so you will save going that route would probably be better invested in the Odyssey. In my experience the AGM/Dry Cell is superior to the Gel batteries.

As for the relay - buy a used one for $20 and spend the savings on the Odyssey. There are a bunch of places to buy used parts like relays that work just as well as new, my favorites are kbikeparts.com, beemerboneyard.com, re-psycle.com, but you can also check out eBay, the IBMWR Marketplace, etc. Fortunately the starter relay (part# 61311459008) for the 1992 K75S is not only the same for all K75 bikes, it is the same for all K100 bikes, K1 bikes, even the K1100 bikes (so there are a lot of used ones out there!)

And just a word of advice for all, if your starter relay welds (most commonly if you try and start the bike with a weak battery), you can often do a roadside repair and "unweld" it by giving it a good solid tap on the top of it with a screwdriver handle (or your implement of choice.)
 

That battery is Tucker Rockies standard "house brand" wet cell lead acid battery. Rob was saying he wanted something better. To compare apples to apples , you'd have to look at the Bikemaster MG 53030 which is their AGM battery:

http://www.bikebandit.com/bike-master-truegel-motorcycle-battery-53030?m=332&td=1

Even if the price were the same, I would prefer the Odyssey.

I tend not to like house brands that you can't find the specs (CCA, PHCA, reserve capacity, etc.) on any of their web sites.

If you want to read more about the Odyssey technology:
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/index.htm

Obviously ANY good battery will work and some inexpensive batteries have been known to give long trouble free service and some of those exact same batteries have been known to fail in less than a year. The AGM/Gel and "dry" batteries tend to have longer and higher performance albeit at a higher initial price.

Each person must do their own cost/reward decisions. There is no "right" battery just like there is no "right" oil, tires, or bikes.



:dance:dance:dance
 
Hi Guys!

First off, no worries about my mishap. It was a stupid rookie move, I was flapping my jaws talking to my brother, not paying close enough attention, etc. All my fault, low speed, no appreciable damage. I almost deleted the footage, but figured it might show others what not to do...and it really is worth a bit of a laugh.

I like the Odyssey batteries, even though I've never used one in a bike. When I was really active in the aircraft homebuilding community, EVERYBODY used Odysseys because of their reliability and the fact that you can mount them in any position you like, even upside down.
I think I'll probably go this route with the K. Before now I was griping about the stock battery being white (instead of black), and now I have a good enough excuse to put a pretty, black Odyssey in there.

I'm in the process of going through the hours of footage and putting together a short feature with music, and a full-length Sonora Pass video of a couple of hours. I sat up late last night and watched the entire raw footage of Sonora Pass, it was like being there all over again! Fantastic road!

...and on Sunday the wife and I are going down to Anaheim to test ride a K1300GT. Don't get me wrong, I'll NEVER sell the 75. But I think it's time to share the garage with something a little more modern, and something that my wife will feel more comfortable on. Plus, it will give me something to look forward to while I enter Phase 2 of the K75S rebuild. And I'll be able to go as deep as I want without the worry of not being able to ride. I'm not going to buy new, I've already found some really good deals on K1200GT's from '07 to '09.

Ok, in a few days I'll post some nice video. I'll put it in "Ride Reports", but I'll link to it from the Flying Brick threads as well. And if you've never rode the Sonora Pass (especially from East to West), I highly recommend it! Especially on a weekday when it's empty...
 
And just a word of advice for all, if your starter relay welds (most commonly if you try and start the bike with a weak battery), you can often do a roadside repair and "unweld" it by giving it a good solid tap on the top of it with a screwdriver handle (or your implement of choice.)

Yes, as soon as I tore the housing off the relay and touched it, the contacts opened. The real pain was getting to it...:bluduh
 
Enjoyed reading your thread and I'm envious that you may get a K1200GT, but please tell me why the color of a battery is important. Just curious.
 
That battery is Tucker Rockies standard "house brand" wet cell lead acid battery. Rob was saying he wanted something better. To compare apples to apples , you'd have to look at the Bikemaster MG 53030 which is their AGM battery:

http://www.bikebandit.com/bike-master-truegel-motorcycle-battery-53030?m=332&td=1

Even if the price were the same, I would prefer the Odyssey.

I tend not to like house brands that you can't find the specs (CCA, PHCA, reserve capacity, etc.) on any of their web sites.

If you want to read more about the Odyssey technology:
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/index.htm

Obviously ANY good battery will work and some inexpensive batteries have been known to give long trouble free service and some of those exact same batteries have been known to fail in less than a year. The AGM/Gel and "dry" batteries tend to have longer and higher performance albeit at a higher initial price.

Each person must do their own cost/reward decisions. There is no "right" battery just like there is no "right" oil, tires, or bikes.
:dance:dance:dance

I've gone through 2 BMW lead acids and two Panasonic/WestCos...not happy that none of them lasted more than 2-3 years...and I'm a daily rider.

Similar to my car/truck, I presume a lead-acid should give me 4-5 years if properly initiated and maintained. I don't trust a battery longer than that, and I'm not interested in seeing how long it will last.

The only batteries that have died on me are motorcycle ones. My car/truck ones I swap out at my convenience every 4-5 years. This is how long I hope the Bikemaster for $62 will last.

Relative to its specs, they are available as it is a generic battery.
http://www.apexbattery.com/yuasa-53030-battery-motorcycle-batteries-yuasa-motorcycle-batteries.html
 
Enjoyed reading your thread and I'm envious that you may get a K1200GT, but please tell me why the color of a battery is important. Just curious.

Hi Ace-
I'm a nut for certain aesthetics. For example, I hate chrome. I spent a lot of time and money getting rid of all the chrome on my truck. This K75S is perfect for me because it has no chrome other than the "K75" emblems.

So, the black battery? Well, the rest of the bike is black, but you can clearly see the white battery from the outside. It bugs me...I even considered painting it. On this model K75S, even the transmission is black. Maybe most folks wouldn't even notice the battery, but I do. I guess it's just a personal pet-peeve. All of my riding gear is black as well.

If I end up buying this '06 K1200GT, I'll probably buy some matching gear to go with it (midnight blue). If it has chrome, I'll be getting rid of it one way or another.
 
Hmmmm.......
I bought an entire set of emblems for my truck that I plan to sandblast (lightly) and paint black with a red face (the truck is burgundy). I wonder how glossy black emblems on the bike would look?

Dang it, the "to do" list is getting longer instead of shorter...

BTW, I ordered a new Odyssey battery. And I'm bouncing around the idea of a new alternator...and this coming from the guy who didn't want to spend $50 for a stock dash switch! HAH!!! My wife must think I'm crazy sometimes...:doh
 
BTW, I ordered a new Odyssey battery. And I'm bouncing around the idea of a new alternator...and this coming from the guy who didn't want to spend $50 for a stock dash switch! HAH!!! My wife must think I'm crazy sometimes...:doh

Which battery did you order, the 680 or the 925??

The larger 700 watt alternator came on most of the '93 and newer K75s, K100s, and K1100s.

You can recognize them by the black plastic cup that encloses the back of the alternator. Other that the terminal ends, it is a direct bolt in. The regulator is incorporated in the alternator.


If you buy the alternator used (yeah, like someone is really going to plunk down $832.62 for a new one from the dealer), pull the regulator/brush assembly before you install it an check the wear on the brushes. You don't want them to wear out with in a couple months of installing it. If the brushes don't have at least 1/4" of travel (spring) left in them you should put in a new brush/ regulator assembly. These can be purchased aftermarket for about $50 vs. about $95 from the dealer.




:dance:dance:dance
 
Which battery did you order, the 680 or the 925??

The larger 700 watt alternator came on most of the '93 and newer K75s, K100s, and K1100s.

You can recognize them by the black plastic cup that encloses the back of the alternator. Other that the terminal ends, it is a direct bolt in. The regulator is incorporated in the alternator.


If you buy the alternator used (yeah, like someone is really going to plunk down $832.62 for a new one from the dealer), pull the regulator/brush assembly before you install it an check the wear on the brushes. You don't want them to wear out with in a couple months of installing it. If the brushes don't have at least 1/4" of travel (spring) left in them you should put in a new brush/ regulator assembly. These can be purchased aftermarket for about $50 vs. about $95 from the dealer.




:dance:dance:dance

...uh...$832 for an alternator? Holy Crap.
I don't have the upgraded alternator. I would like to go with the beefier version, so I'll start looking for a used one, and probably swap out the reg/brush assy regardless of what kind of shape it's in. Thanks for the head's-up on the price, YIKES.
I ended up ordering the 925 Odyssey. If the pics are right, it looks like I may be painting the top of the battery anyway (if it's orange like the pics). But hey, maybe I'll get lucky and see an all-black one when I open the box.

I had already ordered a new starter relay before I read Ted's advice. That's ok, at least I know it's going to work well. But it did bring up some interesting questions in my mind concerning the alternator...
He mentioned that a weak battery can cause the contacts to weld, which makes sense. My battery was definitely weak when it happened, but I've often wondered how well my alternator is working. Example: after a long ride, I plug in the battery tender and see the light go green almost immediately, or within a few seconds. But commuting to/from work (3-4 miles on city streets) the tender has a lot more work to do, and I never stood around long enough to see it turn green again...but there was one time when I went to the garage about 7 hours later and still had an amber light. It made me wonder if I was getting the full output of the alternator.
An alternator beginning to die at 40k miles does not sound out-of-the-question to me, and the fact that I already have the "weaker" version makes me wonder about replacing it.

...but $832? Dang it, that's unreasonable (plus a few other words not suitable for the forums). I've seen plenty of used parts around (eBay, beemerboneyard, etc.).
I'll start looking into it and maybe add it to the list for "Phase2" of the rebuild, which will start soon.

Thanks again, you folks are a wealth of knowledge.
Rob
 
Starter Relay for cheap...

There's a place out of Texas that sells the Bosch starter relay for half the price that BMW charges. I found the information on an old thread of "starter run-on" discussion and ordered one a few months ago. I had to replace my original one a few years ago and I was pretty surprised at the cost - like $75 or so. I had a low battery issue which caused that one to also weld-up and although I got it working (TAP TAP TAP!!! like Ted says) I decided to carry a spare when I'm on the road on a long trip. In researching the issue I found a reference here to a electrical supply house in Texas. The relay was about $40 or so. I ordered one.
It is the real Bosch item and I'm very happy with the quality - it is identical in appearance to what is on the bike now. Anyone in need of the relay should seriously consider buying one from these folks.

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332002150.asp

I don't work for these folks or have any conflict of interest. They just sell the relay for half the price BMW gets for it.
:gerg
 
I've seen plenty of used parts around (eBay, beemerboneyard, etc.).
I'll start looking into it and maybe add it to the list for "Phase2" of the rebuild, which will start soon.

Thanks again, you folks are a wealth of knowledge.
Rob

I have purchased 4 of the big alternators on e-bay. Each for around $100 a piece. Only one of them was in immediate need of brushes.



:dance:dance:dance
 
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