1998 R1100RT Brake Questions

[mtlla70]

Hello Hive,

I just changed the rear brake pads on my 1998 1100RT. I have a few questions:

1) The old pads were unevenly worn - the outermost one was completely worn and the other had about 20% left. What are the implications of this?
2) I forgot to apply some grease to the back of the new pads. Should I go back in and do that?
3) The Haynes manual calls for copper grease. Would Moly be ok, or is the specific type of grease important?

Also - I have ordered steel lines and a master cylinder rebuild kit (the lever return is very sluggish even with full fluid, and there is some corrosion in MC). Should I go ahead and change the front pads at the same time even though they are currently about 50% good?

Thanks in advance for your advice. The value of this forum is immense!

Cheers!
N

 

[m_stock10506]

The uneven wear on the rear pads is common. The pin that holds the pads in the caliper also lets the moving pad slide away from the rotor when the brake is released. If that pin is rusty, grimey or corroded, then the pad doesn’t move away from the rotor and stays pressed on the rotor. This causes accelerated wear. Clean the pin thoroughly and carefully apply some kind of anti seize to the pin. BMW sells the pin only as part of a kit with the e-clip and a spring plate.

I wouldn’t worry about grease on the back of the pads, unless you are getting brake squealing. I also wouldn’t worry about replacing front pads and rear pads at the same time, they won’t wear at the same rate.

 

[mtlla70]

The uneven wear on the rear pads is common. The pin that holds the pads in the caliper also lets the moving pad slide away from the rotor when the brake is released. If that pin is rusty, grimey or corroded, then the pad doesn’t move away from the rotor and stays pressed on the rotor. This causes accelerated wear. Clean the pin thoroughly and carefully apply some kind of anti seize to the pin. BMW sells the pin only as part of a kit with the e-clip and a spring plate.

I wouldn’t worry about grease on the back of the pads, unless you are getting brake squealing. I also wouldn’t worry about replacing front pads and rear pads at the same time, they won’t wear at the same rate.

Great. Thanks for the input! Appreciated!

 

[BC1100S]

3) The Haynes manual calls for copper grease. Would Moly be ok, or is the specific type of grease important?

If you decide to grease the back of the pads (I wouldn't) be sure to use hi-temp grease specified for the job. Wheel grease would be a no-no as, under hard use, it could melt and render your brakes useless.

 

[pglaves]

If you decide to grease the back of the pads (I wouldn't) be sure to use hi-temp grease specified for the job. Wheel grease would be a no-no as, under hard use, it could melt and render your brakes useless.

I personally would not bother with grease on the back of the pads. But if you do want to use some they sell it in little packets at the counter at Auto Zone.

 

[m_stock10506]

mtilla, there’s a terrific pdf write up on 1100 rear brakes. BFD-rear ver 2.1.1 (brakes for dummies). It’s located in the resource library of the ADV Riders web site, membership needed. The document goes into complete breakdown of the rear caliper. One issue I had with my high mileage RT was a corroded caliper guide pin. Next time you lift the caliper off of the rotor, squeeze the two halves of the caliper together. You should be able to see/feel the caliper halves push back apart when you let go. If you can’t see it, I would pull the halves apart to check the pins and add brake grease. Note that I’m not talking about removing the pucks or breaking a front caliper in half where there’s pistons and brake fluid running through both sides. Separating the two halves of the single sided rear caliper on the 1100RT/GS is simply done. You just push the bellows off their position and then pull them apart with your fingers.

 

[mtlla70]

If you decide to grease the back of the pads (I wouldn't) be sure to use hi-temp grease specified for the job. Wheel grease would be a no-no as, under hard use, it could melt and render your brakes useless.

Great thanks!

 

[mtlla70]

I personally would not bother with grease on the back of the pads. But if you do want to use some they sell it in little packets at the counter at Auto Zone.

Thanks, Paul. And thanks for your contribution to the "Oilhead Maintenance Manual". I start every attempted project with that; so much great info, laid out so well. Between that, Clymer, YouTube and this forum, I have not had to visit a mechanic in the 2.5 years I've been a BMW rider...

Cheers!

 

[mtlla70]

mtilla, there’s a terrific pdf write up on 1100 rear brakes. BFD-rear ver 2.1.1 (brakes for dummies).

Thanks, I'll check it out.

...wait. Are you calling me a dummy?

 

[BC1100S]

...wait. Are you calling me a dummy?

Not necessarily.

Kidding!

 

[m_stock10506]

Thanks,
...wait. Are you calling me a dummy?

Well, since I m the one who uses the document and recommended it........

 

[mtlla70]

Well, since I m the one who uses the document and recommended it........

Ha!
Now, as if to cement my dumminess: Can you clarify pushing the bellows off their position? I'm not sure what the "bellows" are. The pistons?

 

[m_stock10506]

Now, as if to cement my dumminess: Can you clarify pushing the bellows off their position? I'm not sure what the "bellows" are. The pistons?

Look carefully at the rear caliper. You’ll see a very small rubber cover, maybe 1/2 inch long, accordion folds so it can stay in place while it moves back and forth. Like the bellows that cover a front fork tube, just tiny. There are two of them, one at the back of the caliper, the other at the front. Your fingernail, or a screwdriver will gently be able to push the end of the bellows off the end of the post so the caliper pin is exposed. Once both bellows are released, you should be able to pull the halves apart with just your hands. The caliper has to be lifted off the rotor when you do this.

The pistons, or pucks, are the round cups that push against the back of the brake pads. The brake fluid is in the caliper behind the pucks pushing them out against the pads. A seal in the caliper keeps the fluid from leaking out. You aren’t touching them in this scenario, unless they are really dirty. But, don’t use solvent to clean back there or you’ll screw up the seals.

 

[mtlla70]

Once both bellows are released, you should be able to pull the halves apart with just your hands. The caliper has to be lifted off the rotor when you do this.

Nice. Thanks!

 

[179212]

Bump

I have both wheels off the 1994 R1100RS getting new tires mounted, seemed like a logical time to check break pads. Last time I replaced the rear pads I also ordered two sets for the front. With the calipers off the wheel I looked at the pads looked at the replacement pads I purchased 3 or 4 years ago and realized I had 2 sets for the back wheel, looking at rear pads one had significantly more wear than the other. I plan on following above advice found on this tread to fix problems but if Murphy decides to have some fun at my expense I want to be ready for him by having this tread easy to find so bump to top.
I would read adv rider stuff but Murf already helping by letting me forget my user name, password and what email address I used.

 

[179212]

Question

What is the best lube to use on sliding pins on rear caliper? I have copper anti-seize seems like it should work.

 

[henzilla]

I use the copper AS, just use very sparingly as it will get on everything. Put it on the square ears of pad not so much on pin.
And regardless of anything tried, one rear pad always wears more.

 

[179212]

Thanks

Thanks for help assume this will qualify for uneven wear.




Now to figure out proper punishment for letting it get this bad, new bike perhaps!

 

[179212]

New Pads

New pads for the front 2 sets $24.99 less than the new EBC set on back, also less by $10 than the 2 little pins and wire thing that hold pads in rear caliper.



Wonder where they are made, does not say on pads or packages

 

[BC1100S]

Hmm, saving money buying brake pads you've never heard of = bad idea.

Just my 2 cents.