1977 R75/7 neutral switch

[cantrell]

I recently did a trans spline lube on my 1977 R75/7. With everything back together, key on, neutral light not on (trans in neutral). I figured I damaged the switch when I pulled the trans back. Removed the wires from switch and installed on another switch with it just hanging underneath the trans. Light is on and goes off when pushed in on plunger. Removed existing switch from bottom of trans and hooked up wires to it and it works ok (same as other) When you install either switch in trans light will not come on. What am I missing? I take it there is something in the trans that puts pressure on the plunger in gear and allows it to fully extend when in neutral?
Everything worked before. It will start with clutch lever pulled in.

ANyone have ideas. Thanks for the help.

 

[20774]

Welcome to the forum! So, I'm guessing that everything worked just fine before you started. Just to be sure, there are two neutral switches used in the 1970s. One is called the "innie" and it gets pushed in to make contact and was used up to the start of the '76 models in 9/75. It is a normally open switch. I'm not totally sure, but I think it has only one wire going to it. The idea then was when the switch was pushed in, it would close the circuit to ground and the light would come on. Ground was actually through the switch to the internals of the transmission. (I'm reaching here, but this is the way I've thought of it.) This part number is 23 14 1 352 153. It also has a spacer part number 07 11 9 963 130...should be 1.3mm thick.

The switch was changed beginning with the '76 models to an "outie" and was part number 61 31 1 243 097. This switch is normally closed but when pushed, it opens the circuit and the light would go out. In this case there were two wires going to the switch, one carrying power to the switch and the other wire went to ground. When normally closed, ie in neutral, the light would be on. When in gear, the switch then opens, disrupting the circuit flow.

The thing with the '76-on and /7 switches, it needs a spacer part number 61 31 1 355 262 and should be 1.85mm thick. This locates the switch body correctly so when pushed, the correct contact is made.

Could this be the situation for you? Did the right spacer get reinstalled?

 

[cantrell]

Welcome to the forum! So, I'm guessing that everything worked just fine before you started. Just to be sure, there are two neutral switches used in the 1970s. One is called the "innie" and it gets pushed in to make contact and was used up to the start of the '76 models in 9/75. It is a normally open switch. I'm not totally sure, but I think it has only one wire going to it. The idea then was when the switch was pushed in, it would close the circuit to ground and the light would come on. Ground was actually through the switch to the internals of the transmission. (I'm reaching here, but this is the way I've thought of it.) This part number is 23 14 1 352 153. It also has a spacer part number 07 11 9 963 130...should be 1.3mm thick.

The switch was changed beginning with the '76 models to an "outie" and was part number 61 31 1 243 097. This switch is normally closed but when pushed, it opens the circuit and the light would go out. In this case there were two wires going to the switch, one carrying power to the switch and the other wire went to ground. When normally closed, ie in neutral, the light would be on. When in gear, the switch then opens, disrupting the circuit flow.

The thing with the '76-on and /7 switches, it needs a spacer part number 61 31 1 355 262 and should be 1.85mm thick. This locates the switch body correctly so when pushed, the correct contact is made.

Could this be the situation for you? Did the right spacer get reinstalled?

Thanks for the reply.
Yes, It all worked till I lubed the clutch spline and put it back together. . Did not remove the sender. Didn't even remove the wires.
I have the later two wire switch with the thick spacer. I measured the spacer at 1.83 mm. I found an article that said the spacer should be 2mm. Do not have a new spacer to try. I have two switches and both work fine if I try them outside the trans.
Once I screw them into the trans they will not work. If I screw it half way in and hook up the wires light is on. Screw it all the way in, light is out. (Bike in neutral).
I have tried a thicker / thinner spacer with no luck. Wish I knew what it looked like inside the trans where the switch goes. Even if it is backed off one turn it won't work. It seems that when it is about two turns from tight it quits. ????
Thanks again.

 

[20774]

I've read that the later cam wheel inside the transmission, which should be your bike, there is a "valley" where the neutral switch would sit. So since the switch is normally closed, that makes sense as the plunger part of the switch would sit in the valley and thus have the circuit closed resulting in the neutral light on. Obviously, with the switches not installed in the transmission, the plunger of the switch is not pushed in so the light will be on.

I don't know but something is suspicious here. All you did was remove (or move back) the transmission to lube the splines...didn't touch the switch or wiring. That seems weird that now the switch/light doesn't work right. Clearly strange things can happen. But just to state the obvious, you are sure that the transmission is in neutral?

 

[cantrell]

I've read that the later cam wheel inside the transmission, which should be your bike, there is a "valley" where the neutral switch would sit. So since the switch is normally closed, that makes sense as the plunger part of the switch would sit in the valley and thus have the circuit closed resulting in the neutral light on. Obviously, with the switches not installed in the transmission, the plunger of the switch is not pushed in so the light will be on.

I don't know but something is suspicious here. All you did was remove (or move back) the transmission to lube the splines...didn't touch the switch or wiring. That seems weird that now the switch/light doesn't work right. Clearly strange things can happen. But just to state the obvious, you are sure that the transmission is in neutral?

Thanks.
I can put it in/out of gear without any issue. In neutral rear wheel spins, in gear turns everything.

 

[69zeff65]

False Neutral

It might be in a position between gears that will give you a false neutral but not be in the actual neutral position.

Also check the wire harness down there by the foot peg mount, I believe there is a two pin wire connector that can get loose and cause the no neutral light issue.

 

[manitou_commando]

Clutch Lever?



The clutch lever plays a part in the neutral switch operating. Check that the plunger that the clutch lever actuates is relaesing.

If the plunger is not releasing, then the neutral switch will not glow.

Check that the neutral switch wiring at the clutch is tight.

 

[20774]

I thought I read that the switch works fine and the neutral light works fine with the switch not installed...so it can't be the hand lever switch. Still seems confusing...doesn't sound like anything was done to disturb the original setup.

 

[cantrell]

Thanks to all who answered.
Once I rode the bike to the end of my street and stopped to make a turn, the neutral switch worked as it should. My guess is the shaft has a certain amount of end play and it centered itself allowing the switch to ride in the "valley".
Thanks again.