stevenrankin
Active member
Thanks for the write up and pictures! Yeah, I use a plastic bag for switches as well. LOL, learned the hard way. St.
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How is your battery? Have you monitored the battery voltage at the terminals when you hit the starter button? If the voltage drops dramatically, then the battery is the problem. If the voltage stays at nominal, say 12.5v or so, then it's something else.
That something could be the starter relay under the tank. The relay can develop corrosion on the terminals. Locate the relay, and unplug/replug a few times...that might help. The relay is a black plastic cube about 1" square on the left side of the frame backbone.
What makes you think the switch should click? Does the horn button click? As long as the switches move in/out, they make contact.I don't need to know if the relay clicks, I need to know if the switch clicks. Is the switch operational?
What makes you think the switch should click? Does the horn button click? As long as the switches move in/out, they make contact.
A’yup, as I went from the Slash 5 Series to the Slash 7 Series (then back to the Slash 5s), you’re right about the Starter Relay in a can continuing into the Slash 6 Series.
Thinking about the FLAPS work-around for the BMW branded Starter Interlock Relay, “8”…
View attachment 97164
… the transistor dis-allowing starter engagement while the engine is running, producing charging voltage, is not part of the after-market relay ?
Therefore, the starter thumb button is “hot” whenever powered; will engage the starter when actuated… could be trouble ?
BMW eliminated that transistor in the /6 relay. It didn't prove to be a problem. Seems we Airheadists have more sense than they originally figured.