So, after replacing the hes and throttle cables and doing a couple sync's I heard a weird sound while at revs finalizing the last sync and then bike was running a little rough. I read up a bit and found that a critical update is the left side cam chain tensioner. So I stopped riding it until I picked up a new one today from bens in watsonville, ca. Ben was surprised the bike made it 84k miles on the original. The rails have not failed and the new tensioner is in but is it possible they could still fail? Should I just replace them?
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1100rt new cam chain tensioner but 84k miles
- Thread starter chrisinsc
- Start date
RPGR90s
Member
Chain tensioner
Its probably not the chain tensioner that's the culprit here. The tensioner "usually" only makes noise on start up (left side only) as it's mounted so that oil can drain. Think of, how a hydraulic lifter works in a traditional pushrod V8. Let it sit over-nite and its not pressurized to put tension on the chain immediately.
Tell tale sign is when starting the bike, cold, you'll hear some chain slap for a couple seconds and then it's gone....and stays gone.
Sounds like you have something else going on.
Its probably not the chain tensioner that's the culprit here. The tensioner "usually" only makes noise on start up (left side only) as it's mounted so that oil can drain. Think of, how a hydraulic lifter works in a traditional pushrod V8. Let it sit over-nite and its not pressurized to put tension on the chain immediately.
Tell tale sign is when starting the bike, cold, you'll hear some chain slap for a couple seconds and then it's gone....and stays gone.
Sounds like you have something else going on.
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
The rails are usually a PITA to replace and will live a long time under normal conditions; a few have actually failed... check out the "similar threads" for details.
To actually see them - next time you have the valve cover off, shine a good bright flashlight down the chain tunnel and look at the very top wall and the very bottom wall. "OK" is slightly convex (you can see this on the picture in the MAX or A&S parts fische) and black; deep grooves or anything missing means it's time to make a decision.
To actually see them - next time you have the valve cover off, shine a good bright flashlight down the chain tunnel and look at the very top wall and the very bottom wall. "OK" is slightly convex (you can see this on the picture in the MAX or A&S parts fische) and black; deep grooves or anything missing means it's time to make a decision.
Road the RT with the new tensioner into work today and there must have been something wrong before which the new part fixed cause the bike has never been smoother.
Anyway, piece of mind part way until I inspect the tunnel and the shoes/guides tomorrow. Hopefully they will look normal. Thanks for that suggestion!
The old tensioner was definitely the original part though. My bike did for a brief period clack a bit on initial start but then went away. I will inspect the oil ports on the old part and see if they were perhaps plugged a little.
Anyway, piece of mind part way until I inspect the tunnel and the shoes/guides tomorrow. Hopefully they will look normal. Thanks for that suggestion!
The old tensioner was definitely the original part though. My bike did for a brief period clack a bit on initial start but then went away. I will inspect the oil ports on the old part and see if they were perhaps plugged a little.
Update. Checked as closely as I could and the left side shoe looks fine.
However, I think I have found another vibration which was making this all confusing for me. In fact it could be two vibrations.
First, I had topped off the oil and perhaps I added two much but more importantly on my first long two-up ride with my wife the added weight and then a couple freeway runs at 75-80mph it feels like I have a driveline issue.
Bike has 84K and when I replaced the pivot bearings I lubed the splines back there and phased it correctly but now there is no doubt that there is a power on versus power off engine braking related vibration. Ordered a used driveline from Motorworks UK and then I will have the old one rebuilt with serviceable joints. Man this bike was a basket case but I think this is the last of it. Tranny is excellent and clutch is good.
Btw there was a little gear oil which came out of the rear most rubber boot when I peeled it off the tube.
However, I think I have found another vibration which was making this all confusing for me. In fact it could be two vibrations.
First, I had topped off the oil and perhaps I added two much but more importantly on my first long two-up ride with my wife the added weight and then a couple freeway runs at 75-80mph it feels like I have a driveline issue.
Bike has 84K and when I replaced the pivot bearings I lubed the splines back there and phased it correctly but now there is no doubt that there is a power on versus power off engine braking related vibration. Ordered a used driveline from Motorworks UK and then I will have the old one rebuilt with serviceable joints. Man this bike was a basket case but I think this is the last of it. Tranny is excellent and clutch is good.
Btw there was a little gear oil which came out of the rear most rubber boot when I peeled it off the tube.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
The updated tensioner has a check valve built in to prevent oil drainback.The actual problem was the design of the tensioner, not the oil holes... The old style drained out more easily than the new one does, so the chain had more time (and space) to slap around until the oil pressure built back up.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
It is not uncommon to have a bit of oil there. Nothing to get bent out of shape on.
Thanks. I appreciate the reassurance.
