04 1150RT completely died when I got to work/No Rider Information Display (RID)

[Beemahdad]

My RT has 107K Miles on it and new PC880 battery installed last September. This morning, the bike started up as usual and when I got to work and parked after a 20mile ride, I noticed the clock had reset. Observing closer, I also noticed the RID was completely blank and no headlight. I fussed with the ignition key, moved the starter switch a few times but the display remained blank. I am pretty sure I'm dead in the water. I checked the fuses and I everything appears normal. Just for peace of mind, I will look up the fuses/relay library and check once more.

I have Platinum roadside if I am forced to but am wondering if you kind and knowledgeable folk have any troubleshooting ideas? I read some threads about the Hall Effect Sensor so maybe it's this?

While I check the obvious like battery, fuses, switches, do you have any ideas I should check. The clock reset to 0:00 got to 0:01 then even the clock went dead at that point.

Thank you

Sunny6

 

[happy wanderer]

When checking the fuses pull them out and then re insert. There are occasions when even mild corrosion can cause issues.
The other thing that comes to mind with a dead RID is to make sure the kill switch is indeed on but also the sidestand switch. The side stand switch is a dirt magnet and it's easy to forget to clean and service it once a year. Although the micro switch is sealed you should clean the connector contacts and use a meter to check that the switch is working at those contacts. That switch will disable the RID and ignition.

Another known issue on the 1150 is the wiring harness where it goes up to the key. On many bikes it was found that BMW installed the cable ties way too tight and this caused shorts and problems with the wires not being able to move and flex properly. This usually shows up as intermittent ignition and no start problems.

The fact that your clock is resetting to zeroes also may mean a low battery. When the battery voltage dips below 10 VDC the ECU resets and so does the clock. So you may want to check batter voltage. This can be done at the accessory connector or from under the seat if you can get your meter probes right on the battery.

Just some ideas there. Others will be along shortly with more I'm sure!

 

[Beemahdad]

SOLVED... bike lives!

When checking the fuses pull them out and then re insert. There are occasions when even mild corrosion can cause issues.
The other thing that comes to mind with a dead RID is to make sure the kill switch is indeed on but also the sidestand switch. The side stand switch is a dirt magnet and it's easy to forget to clean and service it once a year. Although the micro switch is sealed you should clean the connector contacts and use a meter to check that the switch is working at those contacts. That switch will disable the RID and ignition.

Another known issue on the 1150 is the wiring harness where it goes up to the key. On many bikes it was found that BMW installed the cable ties way too tight and this caused shorts and problems with the wires not being able to move and flex properly. This usually shows up as intermittent ignition and no start problems.

The fact that your clock is resetting to zeroes also may mean a low battery. When the battery voltage dips below 10 VDC the ECU resets and so does the clock. So you may want to check batter voltage. This can be done at the accessory connector or from under the seat if you can get your meter probes right on the battery.

Just some ideas there. Others will be along shortly with more I'm sure!

Hi Mike
thanks for the logic breakdown. That was exactly what I needed.

So I went back to basics and borrowed a voltmeter from Engineering to test the battery. (Honestly, I wanted to avoid taking the plastic off at work but after an hour at work, I bit the bullet and decided this was the logical course of action). When we got back to the bike, the clock display had returned (01:03) so we quickly we ruled out fuse. Then, I removed the tupperware next and checked the battery: 13.03V. Hmmm, not the battery. Because of my K75 experience where the bike died, I thought it could be the ignition switch. Key in... Wiggle wiggle... nothing. My Engineer colleague continued the wiggle while I was checking something else and EUREKA!!! It lives... solid display... fired the beast up and high fived my friend.

Sometimes, it's not that you don't know stuff but personal and combined experiences builds confidence and walking through a troubleshooting process certainly makes you better each time you encounter a problem.

I think the best thing to do is to replace the switch and keep it as a back-up. I want to avoid having a breakdown late at night on a deserted stretch of road somewhere.

Cheers everyone and happy riding

Sunny

 

[m_stock10506]

Before you go replace the ignition switch, look carefully at what was said about the wiring harness and the zip ties up near the ignition. Once you are safely home, turn on the ignition and then go at the harness up there. Flex the bars, flex the wiring and see if the RID or the headlight dies. Of course, it could be the switch. Try using some quick drying electronic contact cleaner in the switch.

The kill switch, side stand and Hall effect sensor can each stop the bike from running, but will not reset the clock. Reset clock indicates a complete or near complete loss of electric power.

 

[RPGR90s]

it ain't the switch

Hi Mike
thanks for the logic breakdown. That was exactly what I needed.

So I went back to basics and borrowed a voltmeter from Engineering to test the battery. (Honestly, I wanted to avoid taking the plastic off at work but after an hour at work, I bit the bullet and decided this was the logical course of action). When we got back to the bike, the clock display had returned (01:03) so we quickly we ruled out fuse. Then, I removed the tupperware next and checked the battery: 13.03V. Hmmm, not the battery. Because of my K75 experience where the bike died, I thought it could be the ignition switch. Key in... Wiggle wiggle... nothing. My Engineer colleague continued the wiggle while I was checking something else and EUREKA!!! It lives... solid display... fired the beast up and high fived my friend.

Sometimes, it's not that you don't know stuff but personal and combined experiences builds confidence and walking through a troubleshooting process certainly makes you better each time you encounter a problem.

I think the best thing to do is to replace the switch and keep it as a back-up. I want to avoid having a breakdown late at night on a deserted stretch of road somewhere.

Cheers everyone and happy riding

Sunny

As other have said, it's probably not the switch. More than likely, it's the wiring harness JUST as it connect to the switch. Because of the factory wire ties being too tight, the wires flex every time you move the handlebar. On my '04 RT it happened at 75k miles. The switch itself is very high quality but I'm putting money on frayed wiring at the switch. Repair is easy once you get to the switch itself. Disconnect the battery as some of the wires are hot and you don't want to ground anything while you're splicing in new wires.

RPGR90s

 

[happy wanderer]

Glad you've zeroed in on the issue. As others have posted the switch is probably OK. Finding the wire or wires that are causing the problem can be a bit frustrating but once you do repairing it and tying things down again properly can still get you long service from the switch. We've seen a lot of too tight wiring harness issues on the 1150s here and some other models as well. Someone on the assembly line had their cable tie gun tension knob cranked too high! Tight enough to stay in place while not squeezing or crushing the harness sheathing and the wires inside is what you want once you find and fix it.

RE: your battery. When you check the battery simply putting a meter on it will not tell you much other than if the voltage is over 12 you have 6 good cells however the real test is under load. Use a load tester for static testing in situ or put a meter across the battery and have someone hit the starter and crank the motor. The voltage should stay above 10 volts. If it dives lower you very likely have a bad battery. The charging system on oilheads is very robust and normally causes very few problems.

Are you a member of the BeeCeeBeemers? If not, consider joining. Lots of oilhead riders in the club!