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No Headlight But Hi-beam Flasher Works

dezbrown

New member
Hello!

I just brought home my first BMW and only got 2 rides in before my headlight quit working. It is a 1974 R75/6 with the /5-style handlebar switches. It has run a Luftmeister fairing in the past (which I got, off the bike, with purchase). Conditions I have encountered are as follows:

1. Initial contact with seller. Battery was dead. Jump-started off my car, but would not continue to run once the jump cables were off.

2. Second visit. New battery. Everything seems to work great, including headlight. I take it for a couple mile spin and find the left rear turn signal will not light and front left and dash indicator stays on solid when switched on. When I tell PO of the problem, he removes L Rear turn signal cover to investigate. While probing, one of the fuses gets blown in the headlight. He says he'll fix and I depart.

3. Turn signals are working. There was a loose ground in the tail-light. Fuse is replaced. I arrive to purchase. I give him my $ and ride home. I (with embarassment) am not certain the headlight was on at this time. I didn't remember to check.

4. I get a few miles into a ride a day later and realize I have no headlight.

With the switch in the middle position, I get nothing. With it in the upper position, I get nothing. When I push down, I get the hi-beam flash. The horn works. This tells me I have a working headlight bulb and handlebar switch, right?

I popped the headlight out and discovered I have what looks to be a failed patch. I've got a bright white wire coming out of my L side switch in the place of what I believe should be a yellow that is not making it to a corresponding little yellow tail on the headlamp circuit board. Upon consulting the wiring diagram in my Clymer manual, I became sure enough that I was right that I ran a jumper from the bright white wire to the yellow tail and tried the handlebar switch both with and without the engine running. Still no head light.

I've included two photos. In one I'm trying to show all the wires in the L Hand switch harness. It looks to me like both of the bright white wires should be yellow and they follow the path that is indicated for yellow in Clymer. The older white wire goes to the headlight, which checks with Clymer. The bright white wire under my thumb has a male press connector under that black shrink. In the other photo, I'm trying to show the broken yellow tail. I'm guessing there was a female on the yellow tail that's out on a road somewhere now?

Am I missing something? I am wondering if my jumper (which, admittedly, is a little sketchy) was not passing current. My next move would be to make a real patch from bright white wire to yellow tail. Yes?

Any help much appreciated. I've managed to own a few classics and not had any wiring problems, so this bit of troubleshooting is new to me.
 

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My next step would be the switch. First, I would spray some WD40, give it time to dry and see if anything changes. Then, being the lazy SOB I am, I would dismantle and clean the internals of the switch. Lastly, because I have done this before and it is time consuming and requires patience (hence my appeal to laziness), I would get out the wiring diagram, a pencil and my ohm meter.
 
First, don't use WD-40, unless it's WD-40 contact cleaner. Use electrical contact cleaner. Second, welcome to the world of 1974 /6 orphan bikes. Even though it looks like the bike has "left over" /5 switches, the '74 switches were similar but changed from the /5 switch. The 1974 switches were one year only and they are very difficult to find.

I had a problem with my '74 R60/6 high beam. It would not light when it was in the detent but would light if it was wiggled enough. Inside the switch, the terminals weren't making contact properly. I added a touch of solder to the terminal end so it made contact when the switch was in the high beam position. It has continued working for many years now. Sorry I can't point you to a solution. I think a test light probe or a voltmeter is going to be your best option to trace 12 volts until it disappears.

If you take apart the switch, take photos or careful notes and try to have someone surround your work area with a light colored towel or work inside a clear plastic bag to catch parts that fly away. There's a "jesus clip" that holds the switch in place - called that, because when it flies off and disappears into the shadows of the garage, you will shout "Jesus where did that go!"
 
Wiring

OKAY, chasing down wiring problems can be a royal pain. I am not sure how the Luftmister Fairing was wired into the BMW system but it is there the problem may have started. Now not to be rude but are you sure the bulb is good? Remember always start with the simplest check first. One of the "test light" probes hooked to the low beam plug will quickly tell you if there is power to the line or not.

Given the bulb is good then, I think you are on the right path regarding the yellow wire. There is a direct yellow wire coming out of the circuit board to the headlight plug. From your left control perch is a yellow wire going to the circuit board. I cannot see clearly in your picture where the cut yellow wire is coming from but it should be connected. The white wire is the high beam circuit. If this is crossed with the yellow wires or a white connected to yellow, that will be a problem.

I bought my first BMW from a fellow who had a Pacifico Faring on it. I asked him to keep the fairing and turn the bike over to me without him doing any rewiring. I am very glad I did because you should have seen the wiring he had done to install the fairing! Previous owner disease bites everyone at some time. Good luck with your fix, St.

IMG_20201216_113743209.jpg
 
Success! It turned out that it was indeed the two cut wires that needed to be reconnected. Thanks for the help, folks!
 
Darn electrons!

Darn electrons just won't jump some gaps! Thanks for letting us know how you made out.

You had a mild case of Previous owner germ. LOL. St.
 
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