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Bike Died-Help Please

C

cwoflyboy

Guest
I took my bike (97 RT1100) out a couple days ago. I had gone about 2 miles when it suddenly died. Acted like you had just hit the kill switch. The engine turns over fine but it never fires, all indicator lamps are normal. I checked fuel, fuel pump is coming on ok, battery voltage is ok, checked fuses, removed Motronic relay and cleaned the contacts all with negative results. I pulled a plug to see if I was getting fire, also no joy. I don't know if this is an ignition problem, bad kill switch or something else.
Any ideas/suggestions?
Thanks and take care.

Dale/cwoflyboy
 
If the indicator lights are on, the kill switch is OK and in the "run" position, and the sidestand switch is operating, too.

Most likely it's a bum Hall Effect sensor. This sits on the front of the engine, and its output says (a) the engine's turning over, and (b) gives the Motronic data from which it knows when to direct the ignition to provide sparks. Typically, the sensor's wire insulation (not the sensor itself) fails, with heat and age. A page detailing repair is here: http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf
 
have you tried restarting it once it cooled down?
 
dead

Classic HES. Although the fuel pump runs when the ignition turns on, neither the ignition nor the fuel pump will get the signal to fire from that point on if the HES isn't working. The engine will just turn over and never start.
You can get a new plate from a dealer or Beemerboneyard. It is very easy to change out following the instructions from dehager's site. Making your own 'TDC locking mandrel' from a big ubolt is also on dehager's site. Total time to do this - not long at all.
 
Another vote for the Hall Effect sensor. Same thing happened to my Dad's 97 RT.
 
HES is what comes to my mind also..Just my 0.02 cts.
 
cwoflyboy said:
I took my bike (97 RT1100) out a couple days ago. I had gone about 2 miles when it suddenly died. Acted like you had just hit the kill switch. The engine turns over fine but it never fires, all indicator lamps are normal. I checked fuel, fuel pump is coming on ok, battery voltage is ok, checked fuses, removed Motronic relay and cleaned the contacts all with negative results. I pulled a plug to see if I was getting fire, also no joy. I don't know if this is an ignition problem, bad kill switch or something else.
Any ideas/suggestions?
Thanks and take care.

Dale/cwoflyboy
Click to expand...

It may be the Hall sensor like already mentioned. But diagnostics are pretty easy to confirm that. Pull one of the injectors by removing the two retaining bolts and withdrawing the injector from the throttle body. Aim carefully into a can or coffee cup and observe for squirt.

You have said that there is no spark. If there also is no squirt it is either the hall sensor (most likely) or a defective Motronic ECU. Or a loose connector at the Motronic, or where the Hall sensor connects to the harness. If you don't have squirt or spark check these connections and then suspect the hall sensor.

If however you do get squirt then it is on the ignition side - or again, the Motronic or a connection.
 
Like David Brick said, it's most likely the HES wiring that has failed.

I've rebuilt quite a few of these for folks using high temp Teflon insulated wire and have only found ONE bad Hall device. Every one had cracked/broken insulation on the wire from he connector to the actual Hall devices. The wire that is captive in the Hall devices themselves hardly ever fails.

Follow that link to Dana Hager's site. It will take you by the hand through repair. Just remember, even the new ones being sold have the same crap wire. What you need is a source of good Teflon insulated wire that will not deteriorate with the heat of the engine.
 
Since my 94 RS1100 has 126K on it I know I am due to upgrade the wiring to the HES. So where did you get the high-temp wire you have used for the many rebuilds you have done?
 
Andy VH said:
Since my 94 RS1100 has 126K on it I know I am due to upgrade the wiring to the HES. So where did you get the high-temp wire you have used for the many rebuilds you have done?
Click to expand...

Andy,
I get my wire from Action Electronics
http://www.action-electronics.com/ntehuwt.htm?zoom_highlight=teflon+wire
25' spools are $9.65 each. You need 19" of each color if you want to keep the colors correct, Brown, Black, Orange, Red. WT22-00-25 is the p/n for black.

I used to get it from BA-Electronics
http://www.ba-electronics.com/nte-wire.htm#wt
until they doubled the price of the small spools.
 
cwoflyboy said:
I took my bike (97 RT1100) out a couple days ago. I had gone about 2 miles when it suddenly died. Acted like you had just hit the kill switch. The engine turns over fine but it never fires, all indicator lamps are normal. I checked fuel, fuel pump is coming on ok, battery voltage is ok, checked fuses, removed Motronic relay and cleaned the contacts all with negative results. I pulled a plug to see if I was getting fire, also no joy. I don't know if this is an ignition problem, bad kill switch or something else.
Any ideas/suggestions?
Thanks and take care.

Dale/cwoflyboy
Click to expand...

I had the same thing happen. I took air pressure hose and blew the 100# air all around the kill and start switch, and it started right up. It does not take much to crud to make up the kill switch.
Roy
 
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