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Hi a few years ago I rehabbed a 86 r80, I am now doing a 78, when I did the drive shaft bolts last time I made the wrench and torqued them down , now I cant remember what to set the torque wrench to with the added length of the little wrench ala snowbaulm.Anyone know?
I think Snowbum has a section on special tools.
Also, check this: http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html
About half way down the page, there is a pic of what you want to buy or make.
They are called torque wrench adapters and are widely available from the usual tool suppliers.
Thanks for the help, on the last bike I rehabbed, I made a copy the factory wrench, I just couldn't remember the calculations for torque, when I checked the last bike 86 r80, the bolts were loose, and I replaced them, on this bike I put the wrench to them and they are tight, so I am going to leave them.
The Max BMW parts shows the long bolts with washers, have they changed there minds? The bike has 65 thou on it so it should be ok?
Also, I was told that the torque wrench routine was not really necessary. Snowbum's "good grunt" would work fine with blue Loctite.
I ordered new short bolts, when I put the rear drive back on , do I just use dry gasket?
I think this is where a lot of us rural mechanics get in trouble as metric threads are generally much finer than our past experience with US Coarse threads. We get by with metric threads into steel, but fine threads into softer materials seem to generate a lot of forum thread-strip questions.Torque wrenches are never "necessary" if you have a well calibrated grunt. If peoples' grunts were generally well calibrated, you would not find so many stripped out threads on motorcycles. ..........
I ordered new short bolts, when I put the rear drive back on , do I just use dry gasket?
Clarify -- the new bolts will go on the drive shaft to transmission , inside of the rubber boot. The gasket is where the rear drive bolts to the swing arm.
There is no requirement for sealant on this gasket and I can understand why. The rear drive has to be connected to the swing arm so that, when the axle is inserted, it slides in with a minimum amount of friction.
The correct way to align everything is to bolt up the rear drive without tightening the nuts. Then you insert the axle. This aligns the drive unit so that the axle slides in smoothly. Then you tighten the nuts. So if you add sealant then you're pushing the drive unit towards the rear, thus screwing up the alignment on a different plane. Believe me when I say that I've seen some shade tree mechanics put globs of silicon seal on the gasket to the point that you have to drive out the axle with a hammer! This leads me to the rule of thumb, that if you ever work on a bike that has red, high temp silicon seal oozing out of every mating surface, then you know that someone who doesn't know squat about mechanics has been working on the bike.