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YouTube R1200 WetHead DIY Cam Timing Tool

Well Done

FINALLY!
I've published this YouTube Video again...this time with repeatable results.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ts_LP-1rr0

Just to clarify... You purchased a RIGHT side cam chain tensioner for an oilhead. Not the left side. That's too bad, because the left-side tensioners have been upgraded.. and that creates a source for used left-side tensioners from which this tool could be constructed.

I was looking at your shim that you sourced from an RC collar of some sort. I went on Amazon, and found a steel 10mm diameter rod for less than $7. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Diameter-100mm-Length-Metal/dp/B01F4OB6X6/ref=sr_1_5?hvadid=174269031336

I think I would prefer to slice a section off a rod to make my shim. Everyone's a critic. :) Also, as I watched you turn your bolt 12 turns, and then try to thread the tool into your motorcycle without moving the bolt, I was thinking that Nylok makes a bolt having a nylon strip embedded into the threads that provides some resistance to turning.

Thanks for your efforts, Cap
 
Hi Cap,
Yes, I found my eBay RH cam tensioner and compared it physically to what is on both sides of the WetHead. And, yes again, the LH side is different (longer body that the piston rides in).
The part number I listed for the current WetHead cam chain tensioners is for a pair, so the cost of them is about $94 last I looked which is still within the range of reason for making this DIY tool...especially if you split the cost with someone. Just now, I see about 5 or 6 of these listed on eBay...a couple are in the UK, so shipping makes them twice as expensive, almost equal the cost of buying OEM tensioners listed.

I like the looks of that Amazon listing of the HS steel rod. Nice find! Making the shim close to 5mm is key though as the overall compression needs to be similar to what I did or you could end up too loose or too tight.

One of those Nylok bolts is also a GREAT idea...I wish I could have been working with you on this project all along! You would just need to have some way to verify when the bolt just makes contact with the spring establishing the zero compression point.
I want to clarify one thing about your comment of the loose bolt while turning the DIY tool into the cylinder head...the M8x1.0 bolt is first turned in just until the bolt touches the spring, the tool is then threaded into the cylinder until it is finger tight on the boss, then the M8 bolt is turned in 12 turns or advanced 12mm.

Thanks for your comments...with everyones help, I think those of us that want to do this kind of thing ourselves will have the tools we need to get the periodic maintenance done properly.
Brad
 
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