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synthetic oil for my oil head

mntngrown

New member
I bought my R1100S used from a local guy and he showed me the liter jug of the 17 dollar a liter boxer oil from Europe which he recommended. I went to the local shop and bit the bullet for my first oil change. But I really wonder what magic fairy dust this synthetic liquid gold has at 15/50 that the Mobil 1 5/30 that I run in my turbo charged WRX boxer that has been run hard and now has 150k on it does not have. I get the Mobil 1 6 pack for the price of 2 liters of the boxer oil from Europe. Is the difference that I need the 15/50 because it also runs the gearbox. Thanks from the clueless.
 
I bought my R1100S used from a local guy and he showed me the liter jug of the 17 dollar a liter boxer oil from Europe which he recommended. I went to the local shop and bit the bullet for my first oil change. But I really wonder what magic fairy dust this synthetic liquid gold has at 15/50 that the Mobil 1 5/30 that I run in my turbo charged WRX boxer that has been run hard and now has 150k on it does not have. I get the Mobil 1 6 pack for the price of 2 liters of the boxer oil from Europe. Is the difference that I need the 15/50 because it also runs the gearbox. Thanks from the clueless.

I won't say the stuff he showed you is better than other brands, but 5W30 like in your car is out of spec viscosity wise for the R1100S. Too thin. Find a good syntehetic 15W50 or 20W 50 MA2 rated oil and you are fine.
 
I bought my R1100S used from a local guy and he showed me the liter jug of the 17 dollar a liter boxer oil from Europe which he recommended. I went to the local shop and bit the bullet for my first oil change. But I really wonder what magic fairy dust this synthetic liquid gold has at 15/50 that the Mobil 1 5/30 that I run in my turbo charged WRX boxer that has been run hard and now has 150k on it does not have. I get the Mobil 1 6 pack for the price of 2 liters of the boxer oil from Europe. Is the difference that I need the 15/50 because it also runs the gearbox. Thanks from the clueless.

The engine and gearbox on your R1100S do not share oils; each requires it’s own and they are quite different. Your gearbox requires a 80w-90 gear oil, like Castrol Limited Slip Gear Oil, while the engine needs a JASO MA2 rated motorcycle oil, like Castrol 4T in 20-50. The latter periodically goes on sale for around $7/qt on Amazon and when it does I usually snag a couple of 6-packs. The Mobil 1 automotive oil isn’t what you want for the oilhead.

Best,
DeVern
 
I won't say the stuff he showed you is better than other brands, but 5W30 like in your car is out of spec viscosity wise for the R1100S. Too thin. Find a good synthetic 15W50 or 20W 50 MA2 rated oil and you are fine.

Isn't the spec oil 10W40? I'm going by memory, which is dangerous. I have always used 20W50 in Oklahoma with super hot summers, but I thought the factory spec was 10W40.
 
Isn't the spec oil 10W40? I'm going by memory, which is dangerous. I have always used 20W50 in Oklahoma with super hot summers, but I thought the factory spec was 10W40.

The spec oil for the R1100S is 20W-50. I ran Mobil 1 15W-50 in mine for 120,000km before I sold it and the guy who owns it now has put another 20k km on it using the same oil. It still doesn't use any oil between 5,000km changes. Mobil 1 15W-50 "car" oil has high levels of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous), 1300ppm and 1200ppm respectively, which prevents wear on flat tappet motors. The BMW mechanic who services that bike says he's never heard a quieter oilhead motor. And its not because the valves are tight. :laugh

I've used the same oil in my 3 Ducatis with excellent results although not the same accumulated mileage.

Use whichever oil you prefer, I'm just providing my experience.
 
Thanks

The spec oil for the R1100S is 20W-50. I ran Mobil 1 15W-50 in mine for 120,000km before I sold it and the guy who owns it now has put another 20k km on it using the same oil. It still doesn't use any oil between 5,000km changes. Mobil 1 15W-50 "car" oil has high levels of ZDDP (zinc and phosphorous), 1300ppm and 1200ppm respectively, which prevents wear on flat tappet motors. The BMW mechanic who services that bike says he's never heard a quieter oilhead motor. And its not because the valves are tight. :laugh

I've used the same oil in my 3 Ducatis with excellent results although not the same accumulated mileage.

Use whichever oil you prefer, I'm just providing my experience.

After a search on the site I posted my thread which triggered the "similar" threads. I saw your post about the thicker Mobil 1 and placed my order. This site is a great place to learn from more experienced folks Thanks BC. Got to take the R1100S out today as it did not freeze last night and we got 60f today. Just have to be careful because in Ca the road crews spread dusty sand not salt for snow traction.
 
From what I've read from recent BMW Bulletins on oil, the two general main oil specs are 15-50 for none water cooled bikes and 10-40 for water cooled bikes. That oil weight would be subject to air temps as there is some flexibility based on temperature extremes. These specs are primarily for the dry clutch bikes. Not sure what the F specs are as I don't own or have any experience with them. I know in my oilheads, including a R1100S I ran either Mobile 1 15-50 or a MA spec, synthetic motorcycle oil in 20-50 weight.

I think I read somewhere that the newer wetheads where using a 5-40.

The dry clutch bikes are tolerant of Auto type oils as the friction properties don't contaminate the clutch. Auto oils in a wet clutch, may cause issues and that is why a MA spec oil is recommended for wet clutch bikes. The higher weight Auto oils, like 20-50 don't have friction modifiers, but may not have the additive package suitable for our bikes. A lot of owners use a diesel/auto oil with good results as their additive package closely mirrors a MA spec oil and in some cases are approved for MA wet clutch use.

If you really want to know about oil, there are a few sites on the web that will inform you. Again, when in doubt follow the manufactures specs in the owners manual. Over the years that I've been riding BMW bikes, be they, airheads, oilheads or K bikes, the basic oil specs have changed very little.
 
I think I read somewhere that the newer wetheads where using a 5-40.

.

That's correct and the K1300 also called for 5-40.
I think when that engine first came out as the K1200, 10-40 was recommended. Not talking about the Brick K1200.
 
The engine and gearbox on your R1100S do not share oils; each requires it’s own and they are quite different. Your gearbox requires a 80w-90 gear oil, like Castrol Limited Slip Gear Oil, while the engine needs a JASO MA2 rated motorcycle oil, like Castrol 4T in 20-50. The latter periodically goes on sale for around $7/qt on Amazon and when it does I usually snag a couple of 6-packs. The Mobil 1 automotive oil isn’t what you want for the oilhead.

Best,
DeVern

There is no need for any JASO requirements for Oilhead motor oil, as as you noted there is no sharing of engine oil with the transmission. JASO specifications refer to motorcycles that do.

The motor oil that BMW markets for Oilheads is 15W-50 semi synthetic made in Germany by Shell from natural gas.

A limited slip gear oil is the wrong gear oil for any BMW motorcycle. Limited slip gear oil is for four wheel vehicles with limited slip differentials that require less slippery gear oil in order that the limited slip clutches function. BMW motorcycles do not have differentials, limited slip or conventional. The fact that USA auto parts dime stores only carry limited slip Castrol and pass it off as good for anything does not make it suitable for BMW motorcycles.
 
lkchris;1239415A limited slip gear oil is the wrong gear oil for any BMW motorcycle. Limited slip gear oil is for four wheel vehicles with limited slip differentials that require less slippery gear oil in order that the limited slip clutches function. BMW motorcycles do not have differentials said:
The gear oil that Castrol currently sells as as 80-90 Limited Slip Gear oil is the same 80-90 Hypoid Gear Oil they have sold for decades. No change in formulation whatsoever, it’s the same gear oil that has met correct specifications for BMW motorcycles up until the introduction of the “big hole” final drives. Just a new bottle and name.

Best,
DeVern
 
The gear oil that Castrol currently sells as as 80-90 Limited Slip Gear oil is the same 80-90 Hypoid Gear Oil they have sold for decades. No change in formulation whatsoever, it’s the same gear oil that has met correct specifications for BMW motorcycles up until the introduction of the “big hole” final drives. Just a new bottle and name.

Best,
DeVern

Indeed, for more than a decade it was named Hypoy-C. Then they changed the name. It is the only gear oil Tom Cutter uses in Oilhead motorcycles, K bikes, or Airhead final drives.
 
I've used this in every BMW I've owned or worked on for the last fifty years. I buy it by the case through our local NAPA store (McCall, ID), on special order. I've never had a final drive fail because of my choice of gear oil.
 
I've got a jug of Castrol Syntrax Long Life 75W-90 gear oil, API GL-5...BMW (Non limited Slip Rear Axles) for the final drive on my 2015 R1200GS.

https://classicoilsshop.co.uk/castrol-syntrax-75w90

On the back it says, "Syntrax Long Life 75W-90 is a full synthetic final drive lubricant for passenger cars and commercial vehicles. Approved to MAN 342 S1 and BMW non limited slip differentials...made in Germany"

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/58CC867FFA67089A80258440004233F2/$File/BPXE-8F58WC_0.pdf

There does seem to be some disagreement on whether slip or non-slip makes any difference in a motorcycle final drive...

Harry
 
The gear oil that Castrol currently sells as as 80-90 Limited Slip Gear oil is the same 80-90 Hypoid Gear Oil they have sold for decades. No change in formulation whatsoever, it’s the same gear oil that has met correct specifications for BMW motorcycles up until the introduction of the “big hole” final drives. Just a new bottle and name.

Best,
DeVern

You know this how?
 
I bought my R1100S used from a local guy and he showed me the liter jug of the 17 dollar a liter boxer oil from Europe which he recommended. I went to the local shop and bit the bullet for my first oil change. But I really wonder what magic fairy dust this synthetic liquid gold has at 15/50 that the Mobil 1 5/30 that I run in my turbo charged WRX boxer that has been run hard and now has 150k on it does not have. I get the Mobil 1 6 pack for the price of 2 liters of the boxer oil from Europe. Is the difference that I need the 15/50 because it also runs the gearbox. Thanks from the clueless.

Your Subaru engine is water cooled and consequently built to tighter tolerances since engine temperatures can be maintained more consistently.

Air cooled engine are built to looser tolerances, as they experience greater temperature variations, and therefore require more viscosity.

As noted, motor oil and gearbox oil are separate.

Viscosity differences do not result in price differences.
 
You know this how?

I know this because Tom Cutter - I know you know who Tom is and what his qualifications are - who I trust explicitly to know what he is talking about, specifically asked a Castrol representative when the name changed and he was told the formulation was the same as Castrol Hypoy-C. And Tom relayed that information to me. If you have actual facts other than supposition on this issue I would love to see those facts and their source.
 
You know this how?

Because I contacted Castrol when the relabeling took place. The individual I corresponded with directed me to a document on Castrol’s website that explained the relabeling. I don’t know if that page is still up or not, as I’ve had no reason to check.

Best,
DeVern
 
RE: Using Liqui-Molly 0-60 Wt oil in R1200RT

Just wondering if anyone has used German made Liqui-Molly 0-60 wt oil in their oilhead. I emailed the company and they replied that it is intended for auto use. Thanks for any input.
 
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