Spline advice

[jaybird1150]

Hello all. I have a 17 GSA with 24k miles on it. Doing some service on the final drive and the final drive splines are frozen to the drive shaft. Tried PB blaster all with no luck. I’m not sure how long it’s been in this condition since it has not been checked since new. I’m planning to leave on a trip next week for about 2k miles or so. Needing a consensus on the risk of leaving it until after the trip and then fix. It goes against all the grain but was looking for some options.

 

[GTRider]

If you continue to ride it with rear splines frozen it will eventually destroy the u-joints on the shaft. Heat is the most effective thing at freeing rust, but that’s a difficult area in which to effectively apply heat without damaging something. If it were my bike, I’d get the front splines disconnected if possible, then remove the FD and shaft and try pulling the shaft with a slide hammer.

Best,
DeVern

 

[tsconver]

Should have a recall on our and bmw will replace it for free.

 

[GTRider]

Should have a recall on our and bmw will replace it for free.

Yes, on wethead GS bikes it’s automatic free replacement and installation of a drain if over 36k miles or if the shaft fails the official BMW test. I’m not sure how a dealership would handle the shaft being rust-frozen on the FD.

Best,
DeVern

 

[riderr1150gsadv]

I'd ride it now and when you get back from your trip, go to the dealer and see if the recall/ replacement shaft applies to your bike. If so they will have to deal with the frozen up mess. Very likely they will get you a new FD as has happened with a few bikes I have seen at my dealer when the drive shaft on my bike was replaced.. Since you rode with this condition already I see no reason to lose sleep over this issue.. YMMV

 

[Scott9999]

Well, if the dealer accepts your GSA for the warranty service (and they should; your issue is the classic issue that prompted their extended warranty), perhaps they can loan you a bike for your trip. Not the same as running YOUR own bike, but it beats backpacking 2000 instead of riding it. (Or, maybe breaking down in the middle of nowhere during the middle of it. )

 

[brorke]

Yes, on wethead GS bikes it’s automatic free replacement and installation of a drain if over 36k miles or if the shaft fails the official BMW test. I’m not sure how a dealership would handle the shaft being rust-frozen on the FD.

Best,
DeVern

I had the DS replaced on my 2019 RT (at my dealer while I waited). While the dealer was removing the shaft, they found the front was stuck. Took a bit, but they got it free. Apparently the tech had a hell of a time removing it.

 

[Scott9999]

Hello all. I have a 17 GSA with 24k miles on it. Doing some service on the final drive and the final drive splines are frozen to the drive shaft. Tried PB blaster all with no luck. I’m not sure how long it’s been in this condition since it has not been checked since new. I’m planning to leave on a trip next week for about 2k miles or so. Needing a consensus on the risk of leaving it until after the trip and then fix. It goes against all the grain but was looking for some options.

Perhaps a more constructive reply than the last:

Just to verify, this IS the rear/final drive end of the driveshaft, that you're having problems separating, correct? The reason I ask is because I know for certain that the front (2018) of the "universal shaft" includes a separate snap ring mounted inside shaft female spline gear. I just verified it viewing a parts break down, but the BMW Repair manual doesn't note anything about the ring.

The rear apparently doesn't have a retaining snap ring. If the issue were with the front, I'd expect that something went wrong with that snap ring (i.e. perhaps it broke), jamming the input bevel gear inside the shaft's u-joint. If I were in your shoes, for a problem with rear disassembly, I'd add ice to the final drive shaft (as much as possible, or perhaps spray compressed nitrogen gas from a can), while taking a heat gun to the end of the drive shaft, tap the shaft u-joint with a rubber mallet to attempt to break it lose, then apply a pry bar (i.e. the DVD manual says "Using a suitable tool, remove universal shaft (1) from gearbox output shaft (2)." - helpful, as always; that's obviously for the front, and it doesn't even mention the rear, i.e. "Lift rear wheel swinging arm (1) and remove universal shaft (2).", so I guess it's just "magic" for the rear. ). Obviously, be careful, don't overheat (i.e. like, with a torch), because nothing back there appreciates heat on tempered steel, and separate the rubber gaiter and get your pry bar between the final drive body and the rear/hub of the of the shaft, so that you don't tear up that gaiter.

If it makes you feel any better, I just did my 12K drive check and spline lube last week - no problems removing or installing (note: using a 14 gauge piece of electrical wire, pulled thru the u-joint end, used to pull the shaft into position was essential when reassembling both front and rear; I just fumbled around trying to line them up with my fingers forever, but when I used the wire, bingo, 3 minutes and the shaft u-joints pulled right back over and on to the gears). When I pulled the wheel speed sensor, brake caliper, and paralever link bolt, the final drive just dropped down releasing the bevel gear automatically. Here's the second of the manual describe this - again, not much help. Good luck.

 

[jaybird1150]

Thanks all- for the constructive opinions.