Shakin' All Over

[longrdr]

Hello Fellow Forum members- I'm new to the marque, but an admirer for decades and a rider since 1968. I sure could use some BMW-experienced advice...

My 2001 R1150, recently purchased with some 65k miles on the clock, has what seems like an excessive engine vibration. It starts at 3000 rpm, any gear, lessens somewhat as I go up the gears, but can't be driven out of at any speed up to 150km or so. I'm betting on an engine-based vibration, as past 3000 rpm, it's present whether in motion in gear, or with the clutch temporarily pulled in and throttle opening maintained. Because of that, I'm thinking to rule out wheel imbalances or driveshaft imbalance.

I didn't expect appliance-like Goldwing smoothness, but honestly, my 24 year old Electra Glide Harley was smoother under way. I've put on grip buddies and am considering a gel insert in the (nicely recovered) stock seat. It vibrates in the pegs, seat and bars. As I understand this to be a bushing engine mounting, rather than a rubber damping, does this vibration sound like engine internals in origin...big rod ends? Needs TB balancing? (Average 39-42 mpg around twn/hwy)

The machine appears to have been meticulously maintained, and a Beemer mechanic who gave it a test ride noted it was 'one of the smoothest boxers' he'd ridden, though it was around the suburbs, not out on the highway.

Any suggestions for where to start looking/eliminating for a solution, folks? I've read so many brilliant solutions on this Forum, I'm hoping this brings to mind a fix from someone who's experienced something like this. By the way, I hope to be able to do maintenance and some mild repairing on my own, as I can't afford a pile of dealer-price diagnosing.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone may give. This is a great Forum to be involved in.

 

[Omega Man]

Welcome to the forum!
I don't have much experience with the oilheads- but while I waiting for better advice, I would put it on the center stand and move the rear wheel by hand (neutral) and see if it's a smooth rotation. A little forwards and backwards with the wheel.
Good luck.
Gary

 

[Gruesome]

[...]The machine appears to have been meticulously maintained, and a Beemer mechanic who gave it a test ride noted it was 'one of the smoothest boxers' he'd ridden, though it was around the suburbs, not out on the highway.[...]

So, did you notice the vibration both before and after the mechanic test-rode your bike, or only a certain time after he rode it? If there was some time between the test/inspection ride and the vibration appearing, what was done to the bike during that time? Has the vibration persisted for more than one tank of fuel? And it really does shake while at high idle, with the bike stationary?

 

[rangerreece]

Here's an idea,
Get in the anonymous book and look in your area and start calling some numbers. See if one or more of the MOA members in your area have experience with or own that model bike, if so, see if they would be able to test ride it and give you an opinion based on their riding experience verses mechanical experience. It sounds like you may not have a problem or your engine carbs may be out of synch, boxers can get a little "vibey" at higher RPM's when the throttle body synch is off.

 

[gsaddict]

Welcome to the forum

When was the last service?

I would start by
Fresh plugs
Properly adjusting the valves (4 feeler gauge method) http://advrider.com/index.php?resources/ovad-v2-2.43/
Careful throttle body balance @ 4000 rpm. http://advrider.com/index.php?resources/oilhead-maintenance.38/

You did not mention how the idle is but while doing the tuneup, clean the big brass idle screws (and passageways) on the TB's and then balance @ 1150rpm
Start with both set at 1.5 turns out.

Big bore boxers are prone to vibration if out of tune.

 

[04r1150rs]

what has been done to the bike since it was inspected??? Possible cause the the problem??? Have you had the fuel tank off??? if so inspect throttle cables for anything which might cause one to have less slack in it. I'd check throttle cables as that's easy to mess up if they get caught on something.

 

[rangerreece]

I think we lost him.

Hopefully not a one post wonder.

 

[26667]

no willpower...

but I've also had it suggested both here and by a certified BMW tech that it's possible to get a small piece of debris or gravel, or the like caught in the cable...or rather in the place where the cable goes into the fuel injector, causing the two sides to be out of synch...or something like that

seemed exactly correct in my case, bc the shop could find nothing out of sorts, and when i took it home, smooth as ever

good luck

 

[longrdr]

Still Shakin' All Over...But now...

Thank you very much, Forum responders all! Was away from the 2001 R1150 for a day, but here's what I did find out:

- Rear wheel has no side-to-side play, so that's one less possibility
- Throttle cables will be closely checked asap for any small foreign particles at TB connection points, and will check/clean/replace the plugs. The TB balance may be beyond me just yet, even with the brand new Clymers. That may be a job for the local independent BMW wrench.
- I haven't yet adjusted the valves (only 2000 miles since purchase) but do have the proper feeler gauges; there's a noticeable knock behind each valve cover 1 1/2 to 2 minutes until it warms up, so a valve adjust couldn't hurt anyway. I could also change the oil (all synthetics, front to back) to a 5-50 for the winter, I suppose, to get it moving around quicker. (I'm on the west coast so it's ridden at least twice weekly through the winter) There's a small oil weep from the middle gasket on one of the heads, so that will get tended to before long, as well.
- ** Yup, it vibrates lustily from 3,000 whether moving in gear, rolling w/the clutch pulled in, or sitting on the center stand in neutral. Just like an old Motel 6 bed I once came across in Whitefish Montana. So definitely the vibes are sourced at the engine, anyway.
- The idle sounds smooth, always about 1050-1100, and the throttle grip response is very crisp and light, with an immediate return upon release.

I'll try your recommended adjustments and checks in the next few days hopefully, folks, and see what happens. Thanks to all you new Beemer Buddies and your tremendous pool of experience. I'll be seeing some local BMW club members soon at a meeting, so hopefully can get a 'knowledgeable' test ride done by one of them. Will let you know what success I have. Regards to all.

 

[pampero]

Hi! Your knock is possibly from the cam chain adjuster. If it has not been replaced with the new version it will make noise until the cylinder that the adjuster rides in fills with oil. It's a good idea to replace these with the new version to avoid start up wear, but it's not the cause of your vibration problem, just something you might look into for the long term health of the bike.

A valve adjustment can't hurt and precedes TB balance. If you're serious about working on the bike anyway, look into some device to read the vacuum such as a manometer or a TwinMax. I use a TwinMax because it is simple. Any of your local "anonymous" people will probably have one and know the procedure for TB sync, and as has been mentioned, having a proper tune is a good place to start.

 

[gsaddict]

Hi! Your knock is possibly from the cam chain adjuster. If it has not been replaced with the new version it will make noise until the cylinder that the adjuster rides in fills with oil. It's a good idea to replace these with the new version to avoid start up wear, but it's not the cause of your vibration problem, just something you might look into for the long term health of the bike.

A valve adjustment can't hurt and precedes TB balance. If you're serious about working on the bike anyway, look into some device to read the vacuum such as a manometer or a TwinMax. I use a TwinMax because it is simple. Any of your local "anonymous" people will probably have one and know the procedure for TB sync, and as has been mentioned, having a proper tune is a good place to start.

This product is far better than a Twinmax.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...ulti-tool-it-aint-your-daddys-twinmax.701625/

I have used/had everything from mercury stix on up......

 

[Dmftoy1]

Don't know where you're located but if you're near central IL I've got a grok harmonizer (above) that you could try out for your TB balancing.

 

[pampero]

This product is far better than a Twinmax.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...ulti-tool-it-aint-your-daddys-twinmax.701625/

I have used/had everything from mercury stix on up......

So they say, and I don't doubt it. I just happen to have already had a Twin Max. The damped response (don't know what else to call the quality of its easier to read meter) of the Harmonizer alone is worth the price of entry and negligible difference in retail cost but as I said, I already had a TM. If I was buying now, I'd strongly consider Grok's unit. If anybody is in the Nashville area, they're welcome to use my TM as well and we'll get darn close.

Your advice is well found for anybody in the market today who doesn't want to use a mercury column. And that would be me. There are a few ways to skin this including vacuum gauges, but however you do it, it's a critical adjustment for smooth running. Nothing matches the electronic units if you want to do the sync under load on the road, something I have to admit I have not done.

Ever seen that little sync tool for SU carbs? I've used one of those as well as a 'four barrel' mercury carb stick when I ran Japanese fours. That SU/Stromberg thing/tool was only useful on open mouth (i.e.: no filters, you had to read it directly from the intake) carbs of a certain size if I recall, but it was pretty accurate.

 

[BC1100S]

Ever seen that little sync tool for SU carbs?... That SU/Stromberg thing/tool was only useful on open mouth (i.e.: no filters, you had to read it directly from the intake) carbs of a certain size if I recall, but it was pretty accurate.

That tool was a godsend at the time. Yes, I'm dating myself.

 

[pampero]

That tool was a godsend at the time. Yes, I'm dating myself.

So am I (old). I loved that thing. Follow the bouncing ball! Some people complained about setting SUs up. I thought they were pretty easy.

 

[markaz]

I think I still have one out in the tool box. Used it on the Solexes (and later, Webers) on my old Mercedes 190SL.

 

[BC1100S]

Some people complained about setting SUs up. I thought they were pretty easy.

Yes, they were dead easy. If I recall correctly...Sync the butterflies, make sure oil reservoirs had same oil as engine, screw the jets up or down while checking airflow with that gauge while listening to pattern of exhaust note, done. Once the filters were removed it was a 10 minute job. I recall learning how after an unscrupulous Daytona Beach "British Car Specialist" took about 75 of my 1970 high school dollars out of my pocket (replaced points, condenser, needles and seats, air filters) with no change to what turned out to be a rich running condition (the car, an MGB, having been tuned for cold Toronto February weather - decidedly different from conditions in Florida). It was the beginning of my not-quite-illustrious engine tuning career.

 

[motorrod]

Carb balance tool

I still have, and use, the bouncing red ball in the Uni-Syn on the SUs on my old Mini Cooper. I also have, but don't use, a Colour Tune spark plug - love the old school stuff. It still works - especially on old school vehicles.

 

[dieselyoda]

Spark plugs, clean and dry fuel, clean air filter, all the grounds clean, maybe so far as a fuel filter and check battery condition.

Jump to buying an expensive tool for balancing the throttle bodies= PRICELESS!

Every time my bikes has the "willies", very first thing I do is change the spark plugs. I have a very short riding season and I don't have the time for "what ifs".

 

[pampero]

Spark plugs, clean and dry fuel, clean air filter, all the grounds clean, maybe so far as a fuel filter and check battery condition.

Jump to buying an expensive tool for balancing the throttle bodies= PRICELESS!

Every time my bikes has the "willies", very first thing I do is change the spark plugs. I have a very short riding season and I don't have the time for "what ifs".

A full tune requires the full treatment. You start cold with the valves, (and spark plugs if needed) but ultimately you must end up hot with the FI if you want the best performance. I can't tune FI or carbs by ear, so the "expensive" tool is indispensable for me. A set of (Wurth) feeler gauges and some method to balance the throttle bodies (or carbs) plus your usual hand tools sets you up for life. Seems reasonable to me. There is no way to gauge from here if the now OP's issue is from spark, fuel or compression so the only way is to take it from the top. You don't know and I don't know if he has a bad plug or a non-functioning injector, or anything in between.

As for the expense of the tool, without it you are at the mercy of a dealership. There's nothing wrong with dealer servicing and for some people it is the obvious recommendation. Others, including me, gain pleasure from doing the simple stuff themselves with the benefit that a TM (or Harmonizer ) costs less than the tariff for a single FI tune at any authorized dealership. If the OP is going to diagnose and repair his BMW twin at home, it's not an "expensive tool." It's indispensable and will pay for itself after a single use.