5
535IS
Guest
So over the long weekend I got a chance to just mess around with a bunch of minor stuff on the RS. I learned about RS Airheads in general and about this one in particular. My main task was to get an oil pressure light so I could ride with some confidence. Everything else was superfluous.
In general, I first found out how to get to my fuses. The RS headlamp cover and tunnel come off differently than I'd thought. I looked for the phillips screws under the cover gasket and couldn't find them. So I reached inside the fairing and discovered big weird knurled nuts looking for all the world like very small metal textile yarn bobbins. Removing three of these allowed the thing to come out. It turned out that the fourth was unfettered by its bent bracket, which I bent back into place.
I then found out that in, order to reach the headlamp bezel retaining screw & clip, the headlamp must be rotated upward so you can reach the screw. Then, it came right out.
I was a bit surprised that the shell was as roomy inside as it was. Although the fuses are a bit hard to grasp, they're easy to see. Just think "skinny fingers". I pulled them both, remembering that the black one was on top and the white one was on the bottom. Then, I found out they're both 8A (So who cares which one's on top!?
) and that only one of them actually conducted electricity. 
I hate that about these fuses. They can look perfectly good and still be broken. Replacing it with one from my 535is (the car) tool kit and briefly reconnecting my battery resurrected my formerly MIA neutral indicator light 
... but still no oil pressure light.
I was impressed with the apparent available connector lugs on the fuse panel. I may find a use for them some day.
Closer to the realm of possibility, I discovered that my particular headlamp is a close analog to the 7" Euro-spec lamps of the E28s I've owned. That is, it contains a 'city light'; a separate 4W bulb that is on any time any lights are switched on. [The Euro spec light switch has OFF, PARK, and HEADLAMP positions, unlike the US switches that have no effect on the headlamp.] However, someone apparently clipped off the wire for it that was on the headlamp connector. Should be easy to resurrect this neat little item, although I cannot think of a reasonable time to use it. Maybe a nighttime bike show?
In general, I found out about oil pressure switches. My light didn't come on with the ignition - or at all. With Manic Mechanic Randy, we took a half-assed shot at it at Roy's house a few weeks back, but really only proved that the bulb was OK. This time, I was prepared with the nice schematic whose colors I couldn't make out (red-green colorblind, y'know
), but whose layout was perfect. I decided to check the wiring, first from the switch to the connector beside the battery. Continuity. Then, I pulled the instrument cluster and checked from the other side of the connector to the cluster plug. More continuity. I set the positive lead on the battery again and grounded the wire past the lamp (knowing that the switch is simply a ground for it) and, viola! violin ) A light! So I'm finally down to the culprit: the switch itself. I set my VOM on the 200K ohm range and got a reading fluctuating around 19K. On lower ranges, it read "1", or infinity. So the switch was screwed.
It's no big news that a lot of BMW oil pressure switches are interchangeable. What may be news to Airhead enthusiasts secure in the knowledge that the one from a 2002 fits is that the 2002 is generally regarded as obsolete, 'NLA', kaput by auto parts stores. Fortunately, the switches were used in later related engines, like the one in my '87 535is. So I went over to the garage where I have a parts car and pulled the switch. Then, I pulled the switch out of the RS's case. The car's was a 21mm while the bike's was a 22, but the differences ended there. Threads and connectors were identical. The car's switch was closed (0 ohms). I screwed it in, connected things, and turned the key. A LIGHT! [Continued after reassembly.]
Now, I am well aware that the purists are sitting there horrified that I would take such a rash chance with my RS engine. I worried about that yesterday until I got done doing my research on RealOEM.com. The RS is supposed to have switch #61311243414. This one is used on most late Airheads, including the K51 R60/6, R75/6, R90/6, and R90S. The one I installed is #61311354274. It is used on a whole lot of BMW cars from the 1600/2002 through the E12, E28, and E30. It is also used on the K51 R60/6, R75/6, R90/6, and R90S bikes. The bottom line is, it's a 'commodity' part. Both were used on the same run of bikes. Why there are two different part numbers only accountants could tell you.
Pushing the limits of my oil-tight heads, I pulled the valve covers for a fresh shot of satin black paint. I made two discoveries here. First, someone had put red silicone RTV on the gaskets, which appear to be those neat urethane ones I wanted to buy anyway. At least, during the hour it took me to scrape off the RTV with my fingernails, it felt like plastic. I suspect the RTV was there to mask the fact that someone had left a bunch of gasket material sticking to the head surfaces. I scraped it off and got it smooth for the gaskets. As I cleaned the covers, I was surprised to find that both say "Rechts" on them. It doesn't take my entire 4 years of German language training to realize I've got two right-side valve covers! No wonder one looked level and the other one didn't. If anyone would care to offer a left-for-right trade for a somewhat battle-scarred cover, I'd appreciate it. OK, I knew the bike had been down hard on the left side. The left bag has a dent in it and the bracket was bent (since straightened). The left mirror seems to be a replacement, and the left valve cover was apparently a casualty.
As I had an hour before dark, I decided to try my hand at windscreen changing. I got a new Clearview mid-winter and I had new nylon bolts, nuts, & washers for it. I already knew I could reach all the original expanded pin fasteners from the back, so I got a slightly-smaller punch and started pushing the center pins through, catching them inside. I couldn't get to the two on the ends without removing the mirrors. Two 10 mm nuts each. The left one was tight, not well-aligned with the 'spider' bracket (one more crash clue). I had all the fasteners out in about 10 minutes, working slowly. I got my Clearview and stripped off the protective films at the bottom.
I decided to try reusing the original fasteners and quickly found the holes in the screen were a bit too large. So I pulled out the washers I'd planned to use and stuck them on. This worked perfectly. The Clearview is thicker and less flexible than the original screen, but not so much that the old fasteners can't cope with it. In another half hour, I'd reset them and it was on!
I remounted the right mirror and couldn't get the left one to line up. I had to take a ride! So with one mirror on, I remounted the tank, connected the fuel lines, and choked it. I delighted in all my resurrected dash lights and hit the starter. A few cranks and it fired. In a moment, it was on half choke and I was out the door. A half mile north, a half mile south, and I was parked again, looking for oil leaks. A little on the left, less on the right, so I tightened the 10 mm valve cover nuts a bit more. The next morning, I took another brief ride of a couple miles to check the oil seepage issue. None. Noting that the mirror base was missing some paint (showing white plastic), I shot a little of the satin black onto it, too.
Then, I called my wife out as I again dipped into the wonderful resource that is the 535is tool kit for 'the dowel thing'. [I don't really know exactly what it is. Maybe a clutch alignment tool? A wheel mounting tool? I've never used it for anything before.] Stuck into the end of the 'spider' tube by the mirror, I could bend the spider tube down and push back on the fairing to get the holes aligned. I just needed her to be my 'third hand' and put the mirror on. It was finished! A whole bunch of petty dickin' around that just needed to get done. Then, as I bent over tightening the mirror nuts from the right side, to remind me how much it likes me, the right carb overflowed and drizzled my shoe with gas. I shut off the petcock and whacked it with a screwdriver handle.
Like we've never seen an Airhead with a sticky float ...
In general, I first found out how to get to my fuses. The RS headlamp cover and tunnel come off differently than I'd thought. I looked for the phillips screws under the cover gasket and couldn't find them. So I reached inside the fairing and discovered big weird knurled nuts looking for all the world like very small metal textile yarn bobbins. Removing three of these allowed the thing to come out. It turned out that the fourth was unfettered by its bent bracket, which I bent back into place.
I then found out that in, order to reach the headlamp bezel retaining screw & clip, the headlamp must be rotated upward so you can reach the screw. Then, it came right out.
I was a bit surprised that the shell was as roomy inside as it was. Although the fuses are a bit hard to grasp, they're easy to see. Just think "skinny fingers". I pulled them both, remembering that the black one was on top and the white one was on the bottom. Then, I found out they're both 8A (So who cares which one's on top!?
) and that only one of them actually conducted electricity. I hate that about these fuses. They can look perfectly good and still be broken. Replacing it with one from my 535is (the car) tool kit and briefly reconnecting my battery resurrected my formerly MIA neutral indicator light ... but still no oil pressure light.I was impressed with the apparent available connector lugs on the fuse panel. I may find a use for them some day.
Closer to the realm of possibility, I discovered that my particular headlamp is a close analog to the 7" Euro-spec lamps of the E28s I've owned. That is, it contains a 'city light'; a separate 4W bulb that is on any time any lights are switched on. [The Euro spec light switch has OFF, PARK, and HEADLAMP positions, unlike the US switches that have no effect on the headlamp.] However, someone apparently clipped off the wire for it that was on the headlamp connector. Should be easy to resurrect this neat little item, although I cannot think of a reasonable time to use it. Maybe a nighttime bike show?
In general, I found out about oil pressure switches. My light didn't come on with the ignition - or at all. With Manic Mechanic Randy, we took a half-assed shot at it at Roy's house a few weeks back, but really only proved that the bulb was OK. This time, I was prepared with the nice schematic whose colors I couldn't make out (red-green colorblind, y'know
), but whose layout was perfect. I decided to check the wiring, first from the switch to the connector beside the battery. Continuity. Then, I pulled the instrument cluster and checked from the other side of the connector to the cluster plug. More continuity. I set the positive lead on the battery again and grounded the wire past the lamp (knowing that the switch is simply a ground for it) and, viola! violin ) A light! So I'm finally down to the culprit: the switch itself. I set my VOM on the 200K ohm range and got a reading fluctuating around 19K. On lower ranges, it read "1", or infinity. So the switch was screwed.It's no big news that a lot of BMW oil pressure switches are interchangeable. What may be news to Airhead enthusiasts secure in the knowledge that the one from a 2002 fits is that the 2002 is generally regarded as obsolete, 'NLA', kaput by auto parts stores. Fortunately, the switches were used in later related engines, like the one in my '87 535is. So I went over to the garage where I have a parts car and pulled the switch. Then, I pulled the switch out of the RS's case. The car's was a 21mm while the bike's was a 22, but the differences ended there. Threads and connectors were identical. The car's switch was closed (0 ohms). I screwed it in, connected things, and turned the key. A LIGHT!
[Continued after reassembly.]Now, I am well aware that the purists are sitting there horrified that I would take such a rash chance with my RS engine. I worried about that yesterday until I got done doing my research on RealOEM.com. The RS is supposed to have switch #61311243414. This one is used on most late Airheads, including the K51 R60/6, R75/6, R90/6, and R90S. The one I installed is #61311354274. It is used on a whole lot of BMW cars from the 1600/2002 through the E12, E28, and E30. It is also used on the K51 R60/6, R75/6, R90/6, and R90S bikes. The bottom line is, it's a 'commodity' part. Both were used on the same run of bikes. Why there are two different part numbers only accountants could tell you.
Pushing the limits of my oil-tight heads, I pulled the valve covers for a fresh shot of satin black paint. I made two discoveries here. First, someone had put red silicone RTV on the gaskets, which appear to be those neat urethane ones I wanted to buy anyway. At least, during the hour it took me to scrape off the RTV with my fingernails, it felt like plastic. I suspect the RTV was there to mask the fact that someone had left a bunch of gasket material sticking to the head surfaces. I scraped it off and got it smooth for the gaskets. As I cleaned the covers, I was surprised to find that both say "Rechts" on them. It doesn't take my entire 4 years of German language training to realize I've got two right-side valve covers! No wonder one looked level and the other one didn't. If anyone would care to offer a left-for-right trade for a somewhat battle-scarred cover, I'd appreciate it. OK, I knew the bike had been down hard on the left side. The left bag has a dent in it and the bracket was bent (since straightened). The left mirror seems to be a replacement, and the left valve cover was apparently a casualty.
As I had an hour before dark, I decided to try my hand at windscreen changing. I got a new Clearview mid-winter and I had new nylon bolts, nuts, & washers for it. I already knew I could reach all the original expanded pin fasteners from the back, so I got a slightly-smaller punch and started pushing the center pins through, catching them inside. I couldn't get to the two on the ends without removing the mirrors. Two 10 mm nuts each. The left one was tight, not well-aligned with the 'spider' bracket (one more crash clue). I had all the fasteners out in about 10 minutes, working slowly. I got my Clearview and stripped off the protective films at the bottom.
I decided to try reusing the original fasteners and quickly found the holes in the screen were a bit too large. So I pulled out the washers I'd planned to use and stuck them on. This worked perfectly. The Clearview is thicker and less flexible than the original screen, but not so much that the old fasteners can't cope with it. In another half hour, I'd reset them and it was on!
I remounted the right mirror and couldn't get the left one to line up. I had to take a ride! So with one mirror on, I remounted the tank, connected the fuel lines, and choked it. I delighted in all my resurrected dash lights and hit the starter. A few cranks and it fired. In a moment, it was on half choke and I was out the door. A half mile north, a half mile south, and I was parked again, looking for oil leaks. A little on the left, less on the right, so I tightened the 10 mm valve cover nuts a bit more. The next morning, I took another brief ride of a couple miles to check the oil seepage issue. None. Noting that the mirror base was missing some paint (showing white plastic), I shot a little of the satin black onto it, too.
Then, I called my wife out as I again dipped into the wonderful resource that is the 535is tool kit for 'the dowel thing'. [I don't really know exactly what it is. Maybe a clutch alignment tool? A wheel mounting tool? I've never used it for anything before.] Stuck into the end of the 'spider' tube by the mirror, I could bend the spider tube down and push back on the fairing to get the holes aligned. I just needed her to be my 'third hand' and put the mirror on. It was finished! A whole bunch of petty dickin' around that just needed to get done. Then, as I bent over tightening the mirror nuts from the right side, to remind me how much it likes me, the right carb overflowed and drizzled my shoe with gas. I shut off the petcock and whacked it with a screwdriver handle.
Like we've never seen an Airhead with a sticky float ...
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