rear brake pads

[MOONDOG59]

The prior owner of my 1983 R100RT changed the rear brake pads but never worked them into the disc (which I think needs replacing but my BMW mech says they all wear like that and I got plenty of disc left). Anyone have a good way to wear the pads in, short of riding. I want to get these rear brakes working better before I take it out.

 

[ccolwell]

Not much to do other than deglaze the pads with emery cloth (mind the dust, breathing it is not good for you) and cleaning the disks with alcohol. Or just get a new set of EBC's, whcih are probably better than the stock ones. That thing has a double disk up front, doesn't it? That should keep you out of trouble while the rear beds in.

 

[dennisdarrow]

Why not just ride it. Traffic patterns?............If so, get up super early one morning when the roads get clear of snow, ice, and rain and RIDE..............Some folks say to use them as hard as you can down a long hill, dragging them, heating them up............Other's say to just use them normally for a couple of tanks..........Be careful; but RIDE............Dennis

 

[MOONDOG59]

Not much to do other than deglaze the pads with emery cloth (mind the dust, breathing it is not good for you) and cleaning the disks with alcohol. Or just get a new set of EBC's, whcih are probably better than the stock ones. That thing has a double disk up front, doesn't it? That should keep you out of trouble while the rear beds in.

Problem here is that when I rode the bike for the 2nd time to the local rally in Ct., thats what I was doing is trying to work them in and then I had to panick stop and all I had was front brakes. Off the bike I went and about 40k later in hospital bills and one broken leg. I like the idea of a long hill and ride them all the way down or replace the discs.

 

[gregfeeler]

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Problem here is that when I rode the bike for the 2nd time to the local rally in Ct., thats what I was doing is trying to work them in and then I had to panick stop and all I had was front brakes. Off the bike I went and about 40k later in hospital bills and one broken leg. I like the idea of a long hill and ride them all the way down or replace the discs.

I'm very sorry to hear about your accident and can understand your reluctance to risk the same situation again. However, your rear brake is only about 20% of your stopping power under the best of conditions. I know of no way to bed in pads to rotors other than riding - and you don't want to "ride them all the way down" a long hill. Because the contact area is reduced until the pads bed into ("fit") the rotors you risk glazing the pads by overheating, then you'll have less braking power - not more. New pads and a new rotor will also have to bed in - perhaps a bit faster, but there is still a wear in process.

 

[BOXERR]

I deglazed mine on the cement path. worked well.
I always understood that running in consisted of riding say 50-60mph, then firm brake back to around 35-40mph, then repeat around 10 times.
Then ride normal. Worked for me.

 

[gregfeeler]

I deglazed mine on the cement path. worked well.
I always understood that running in consisted of riding say 50-60mph, then firm brake back to around 35-40mph, then repeat around 10 times.
Then ride normal. Worked for me.

From the EBC web page Q&A: http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq&a.html

7. Brake Efficiency- when will these pads perform best
All EBC coloured range pads - green, red and yellow - are high mileage compounds. and you cannot expect their optimum performance straight out of the box. Brake effect will be GOOD and certainly SAFE but not at their BEST. Pads need to be bedded in geometrically which could take 400-600 miles, even on new rotors and after that pads have to final cure chemically which can take another 1000 miles. Experience shows us that out of the box all EBC pads perform equal to or better than OEM parts and most other aftermarket parts but they just keep getting better with time so hang in there - and please donÔÇÖt criticise the performance of the pads until they are fully bedded. Also during the life of the pads remember to monitor pad wear as half worn pads or more than half worn pads will cause a significant reduction in performance of the brake. In sport use and for optimum braking we recommend changing pads when there is 3/16 th inch (4mm) of friction material left on the steel backing plate and not to wear the pads any lower. Pads and calipers start to overheat when friction material goes below this level. Remember the faster and harder you drive, the faster pads will wear and a wrong spec pad could wear out surprisingly quickly so keep an eye on the pads, especially if you see more dust than expected. In race use wear will be MUCH faster.

...and...

9. Bedding in EBC pads
In Street use situations 
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.
A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

 

[MOONDOG59]

OK first I didn't mean hold all the way down..I thought I'd go up and down a few times and hold and release etc, etc, etc. But the more I think about the shape of the disc the more I think I am better off changing it. It is deeply grooved and doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. Even if the mechanic said it was ok. He's grouchy anyway.

And if I had twenty percent at the time of the accident I would have taken that. Makes me wonder...there wasn't much travel with the pedal. I wonder if the Master cylinder is frozen or screwed up? HHHHHHHHMMMMMMMMM.........

Dog catcher? What have you caught lately?