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Rear brake fluid reservoir
- Thread starter ccolwell
- Start date
lee
Debbie's Servant
All this Torx and Torx-Plus talk. I wonder if I have run across TP and just used regular Torx and didn’t know it
OM
I didn't realize it on the final drive since 2011. K1300S, R1200RS and R1250RS.
I can't believe I noticed Torx Plus on the front brake reservoir cover but not the final drive.
I remember thinking the final drive plug looked strange but didn't think much about it when the regular Torx bit seemed to fit.
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radiofun1
Redneck Oregonian
I bought that set of torx plus in order to have a full set on hand but more immediately to remove the front brake reservoir cap. However, none of the drivers fit. I was sure the screws were torx plus by looking at them. I even check Max's fiche but that didn't say what they were. So just removed them with regular torx. Low torque so no sweat.
lee
Debbie's Servant
That's strange. The TP40 boxflyer tried on the final drive drain plug fit.
I canceled my kit like yours since it has not shipped and probably will get a single OTC brand TP40.
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lee
Debbie's Servant
I agree with Boxflyer, the fill plug takes a 6mm Hex.
I checked the front brake reservoir cover and my OTC TP20 is a very good fit. My Craftsman T20 is a loose fit.
goofed and bled the rear circuit out of fluid.
Moving back to the rear brake reservoir aspect of this thread.....
While doing the first year brake bleed, I was stupidly paying too much attention to the GS-911 display on the laptop, and the front brake fluid reservoir level when suddenly there was no resistance in the rear brake pedal.
I have tried filling the brake line between the caliper and the ABS, unit along with filling the caliper but just can't get a good fill, and cannot pressurize the line. I guess I have air in the ABS pump and need to find a way to fill it with brake fluid. Wondering if this means trailering the bike to dealer 4+ hours away, or if there is something I can do to rectify my error. Anyone else out there been so absent minded as me and found a way out of it?
Moving back to the rear brake reservoir aspect of this thread.....
While doing the first year brake bleed, I was stupidly paying too much attention to the GS-911 display on the laptop, and the front brake fluid reservoir level when suddenly there was no resistance in the rear brake pedal.
I have tried filling the brake line between the caliper and the ABS, unit along with filling the caliper but just can't get a good fill, and cannot pressurize the line. I guess I have air in the ABS pump and need to find a way to fill it with brake fluid. Wondering if this means trailering the bike to dealer 4+ hours away, or if there is something I can do to rectify my error. Anyone else out there been so absent minded as me and found a way out of it?
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purging air from rear brake circuit.
Progress has been made. I swapped the Speed Bleeder for the OEM bleeder so I could back-fill the rear circuit from the caliper. At first I cracked open the banjo bolt to allow air to escape at the rear master cylinder, after about 35 cc the brake fluid started oozing out at the banjo bolt. I was using a syringe and 3 inches of tubing to gently push the brake fluid in. After tightening up the banjo bolt, I put in another 15 or so cc and this began to overflow the rear reservoir. Now I have resistance in the rear brake pedal so should be able to follow the bleed process with the GS-911. I expect to do that at least twice fully through to be sure I have the air out, and will use a different color fluid to be able to see when it has been exchanged as completely as possible.
Progress has been made. I swapped the Speed Bleeder for the OEM bleeder so I could back-fill the rear circuit from the caliper. At first I cracked open the banjo bolt to allow air to escape at the rear master cylinder, after about 35 cc the brake fluid started oozing out at the banjo bolt. I was using a syringe and 3 inches of tubing to gently push the brake fluid in. After tightening up the banjo bolt, I put in another 15 or so cc and this began to overflow the rear reservoir. Now I have resistance in the rear brake pedal so should be able to follow the bleed process with the GS-911. I expect to do that at least twice fully through to be sure I have the air out, and will use a different color fluid to be able to see when it has been exchanged as completely as possible.
I wouldn't of open the banjo bolt, I think you'll end up adding air to the system. I would of vacuumed (sucked) from the Speed Bleeder pulling the fluid though the line. You may know this, the GS 911 can run the ABS so that fluid will be changed out too. My option.
strataj,
I appreciate your comments but since the whole circuit was full of air, the GS-911 pump was apparently just pushing air around and suction applied to the bleeder at Caliper just didn't seem to work. I was kind of stuck not knowing how to get enough fluid in so that the hydraulic force of the GS-911 pump and/or the cylinder, would work for me. Then I filled the circuit from the bleeder to the banjo bolt which was only open 1/2 turn. As soon as brake fluid started seeping out I tightened down the banjo bolt to seal off the circuit. I did bleed it many times over from reservoir/cylinder to Speed Bleeder and using the GS-911 protocol once I got fluid in there. Got a lot of air out and now I have a very firm rear brake feel.
I appreciate your comments but since the whole circuit was full of air, the GS-911 pump was apparently just pushing air around and suction applied to the bleeder at Caliper just didn't seem to work. I was kind of stuck not knowing how to get enough fluid in so that the hydraulic force of the GS-911 pump and/or the cylinder, would work for me. Then I filled the circuit from the bleeder to the banjo bolt which was only open 1/2 turn. As soon as brake fluid started seeping out I tightened down the banjo bolt to seal off the circuit. I did bleed it many times over from reservoir/cylinder to Speed Bleeder and using the GS-911 protocol once I got fluid in there. Got a lot of air out and now I have a very firm rear brake feel.
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