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R90S Drive shaft removal
- Thread starter sirmanley
- Start date
kbasa
Well-known member
I just pulled the swingarm from my R100CS and took the shaft apart by using a 12ton press. I took the bolt off that holds the cup to the shaft and then used a 1/2" extension to reach the final drive end of the shaft. I mounted it in the press and it came right off.
You might have to take it to a machine shop to have them do it if you don't have a press.
Your local dealer probably has the tools to take it apart, too.
bikerfish1100
New member
do want to know how to get the driveshaft out of the swingarm/driveshaft housing, the swingarm/housing off the bike, or both?
do you own a shop manual (clymer's or haynes)?
do you own a shop manual (clymer's or haynes)?
PGlaves
#13338
I assume you have the swingarm with encapsulated driveshaft off the bike and want the driveshaft out of the swingarm so the swingarm can be painted.
I am also assuming that the driveshaft is OEM on a 1977 or older bike - ie 74-76 R90. The 1978 and later driveshafts have a heavily spring loaded shock absorbing face cam and are under very heavy spring tension. They need to be compressed and a circlip removed.
So first verify by looking along the shaft inside the swingarm that it is one straight round piece and there is no bulge and spring inside there. If there is a bulge and a spring take it to the dealer and have them remove it with the proper fixtures.
If it is one straight shaft then either take it to the dealer or proceed yourself:
1. Remove the nut from the back end of the shaft, inside the splined connector to the final drive. It will be very tight. The assembly spec is 177 to 192 foot pounds. Big vice - big socket - long flex handle.
2. Attach a 3 jaw bearing puller to the cup on the back of the shaft with the threaded center in the detent in the center of the shaft.
The cup is tapered and on a taper on the shaft so in assembly it gets very tight. It won't want to come off. Apply firm pressure with the puller. Be careful because with puller tension it might pop of and go shooting across the room. Stay out of its way.
If puller tension does not pop it loose then - keeping some tension on the puller take a hammer and tap directly on the head of the threaded puller rod. Stay out of the way.
If taps on the head of the puller rod don't free it then warm the cup on the end of the driveshaft with a heat gun - then repeat tap, heat, tap, repeat. Stay out of the way. With a tight puller when it releases it will pop off with some force. Stay out of the way.
I have a divot in the paneling in my shop in Kansas from one releasing suddenly, so stay out of the way. From the moment you apply puller pressure do not get in line with where it will go if it pops off. Stay out of the way.
Oh - did I say - stay out of the way.
I am also assuming that the driveshaft is OEM on a 1977 or older bike - ie 74-76 R90. The 1978 and later driveshafts have a heavily spring loaded shock absorbing face cam and are under very heavy spring tension. They need to be compressed and a circlip removed.
So first verify by looking along the shaft inside the swingarm that it is one straight round piece and there is no bulge and spring inside there. If there is a bulge and a spring take it to the dealer and have them remove it with the proper fixtures.
If it is one straight shaft then either take it to the dealer or proceed yourself:
1. Remove the nut from the back end of the shaft, inside the splined connector to the final drive. It will be very tight. The assembly spec is 177 to 192 foot pounds. Big vice - big socket - long flex handle.
2. Attach a 3 jaw bearing puller to the cup on the back of the shaft with the threaded center in the detent in the center of the shaft.
The cup is tapered and on a taper on the shaft so in assembly it gets very tight. It won't want to come off. Apply firm pressure with the puller. Be careful because with puller tension it might pop of and go shooting across the room. Stay out of its way.
If puller tension does not pop it loose then - keeping some tension on the puller take a hammer and tap directly on the head of the threaded puller rod. Stay out of the way.
If taps on the head of the puller rod don't free it then warm the cup on the end of the driveshaft with a heat gun - then repeat tap, heat, tap, repeat. Stay out of the way. With a tight puller when it releases it will pop off with some force. Stay out of the way.
I have a divot in the paneling in my shop in Kansas from one releasing suddenly, so stay out of the way. From the moment you apply puller pressure do not get in line with where it will go if it pops off. Stay out of the way.
Oh - did I say - stay out of the way.
kbasa
Well-known member
I put some blankets down under the press and the driveshaft literally shot out of the swingarm and into the blankets. It made quite a noise.
bikerfish1100
New member
+1. which is why i posted my question back at the start- what exactly are you wanting to accomplish?
Last edited:
PGlaves
#13338
Brilliant! Absolutely brilliant. I will remember that! It saves divots in the paneling.
BRADFORDBENN
Slowpoke & Proud of It!
Bigger hammer... I have a 16 pound sledge known as the motivator...
